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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. Go into Harrods and look at their display - from left to right there are SubZero and Wolf and from memory I think we added the display up to around £300k..... and it’s not that big ..!!
  2. Ok - new ASHP has a pretty binary control system that essentially puts 24v across 2 terminals. It’s an IVT unit that has no indoor control box, just a plastic enclosure with a few DIN connectors and a transformer. The control box has a stat and a 230v connection acting as the switch to the 230/24v DIN transformer which then sends output to the ASHP. Now I’m not overly keen on this as I’m sure that constant switching of the transformer will do it no good, and would rather use a contactor or relay to switch the low power side. Am I being pendantic over this or should I just leave it be..??
  3. .... with 25mm laser cut steel with an intricate water jet pattern designed in autocad to mm precision ......
  4. The Nu-Lok system halves the number of slates and looks really good. Easy to learn and understand too
  5. He’s fitted a standard backplate. Those ones are supposed to be fitted to a 1/2” iron that is partially in the wall. He would have to take the pipe off, core out a larger hole for the iron and then ensure the other end was soldered or compression fittings to stop it twisting.
  6. Peel the top edge if you can and spray WD40 above it so it starts to run into the label. Keep doing this and peeling it down a bit more each time. It will soon come off.
  7. Yeh like the dwarves .... There was dopy, stupid, clumsy, brainless, clueless, witless and c**khead.....
  8. I’d paint it with poster paint... then wait for a good rain shower and say it faded ..!
  9. That’s the same company as @dpmiller linked to - the products are all MCS but to get the RHI you need it installed by an MCS accredited installer which is where the costs are...
  10. Watch out for bridging the DPC if you bring the paving up to the door. Ideally it needs a gap both to the edge and underneath to allow for drainage
  11. Ring these guys - know their stuff, price competitive and also do the IRTfS in roof systems so you know it all fits together. https://www.wagner-renewables.com/products/solar-pv/
  12. This statement off the website worries me ..!! .....Designed to make installation a quick and simple process with no extra materials or training needed..... there’s a disaster waiting to happen...
  13. 30kw of solar is a big array - takes you out of domestic RHI from memory ( @Ferdinand..?) and you would need some serious payback calcs to make it stack up. If it’s only a Marley Modern then your tile cost will be 80p or so per tile so £2k of tiles saved, assuming you were going for a rail mount rather than in roof array. What do you have PP for out of interest ..?
  14. Cracking view ..!!
  15. Sorry - try this as way of explaination. This is one I did recently that gave insulated ground bearing slab and also a filled cavity below ground which helps for UFH losses.
  16. Ok so that’s still a big cost and additional complexity that you don’t need. Is this TF..? Ground bearing structural slab would save you £4K plus the additional cost of excavating less
  17. Not sure..? Thought you were suggesting concrete for the top rather than S&C. It it would be bottom up : 150mm MoT sand blinding DPM Insulation slip membrane 120-150mm concrete with rebar and ufh pipes
  18. Screed !! Sorry ..!!
  19. Ok - odd that some are cubic and the others are square metres can you not dispense with the structural slab and screws, make it all slab and put 200mm of insulation and then a 150mm slab over the top ..?
  20. Are they the material costs or including labour costs on the right..?? if so, MoT is £11-14 a tonne delivered bulk and your standard C20 should be no more than £90 dependent on location
  21. I’d be using PrimerG or SBR then as PVA will form a skin so the bond will be a PVA sandwich otherwise ...
  22. Have a look at the Kenwood one - bit more expensive but has a better design IMO Kenwood
  23. There is a good argument for making all internal walls (where possible) TF and then only inserting sockets and pipework into these walls. It is quicker for the follow on trades; there is no chasing out of walls; there are no caps or other protective measures needed (subject to wiring regs..!!) It takes planning but it can pay real dividends - your other option is create a service void by using battens and then at least insulate the “spare” gaps that have no wiring or pipework.
  24. Just use the TS £1 stuff. It’s to hold it in place while you screw it on, the tanking and the tiles do the rest. TBH if you’ve got water back to the joint it’s fecked anyway so you could use Marmite and it would be as much use ....
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