PeterW

Got a link @JSHarris..?? I’ve got a really nice white radiator that has a towel rail fitted on to it but I know the rail alone was about £80.......

@ProDave I’m lost ... Do you not have a floor down now..? Haven’t you got 22mm chipboard on the JJI Joists..??

Better link is here to the Data sheet They are a 1200/600 board that goes over the existing floor. Made from EPS, you can always put another layer of 25mm EPS under them to make it thicker and better insulating but you do just get a very fast responding floor.

Saw one of these fitted and they are very good - decent coverage but not too conspicuous https://www.waterirrigation.co.uk/watering-kits/outdoor-watering/micro-sprinkler-kits/hydrosure-large-micro-sprinkler-kit.html

Should find what you need here ... https://www.waterirrigation.co.uk/pipes-and-fittings/pipe-fittings/tap-and-hose-connectors.html

Ok so you should only use water from the roof for rainwater harvesting as it’s the cleanest source. Channel drains shouldn’t be used as they can get contaminated from oil and fuels etc from hard standings. Where is this water being used ..?

@Moira Niedzwiecka where did they come from..?

What is at the other end of the roof ..? Can you get away with a single down pipe..?

It’s the same way that python coolers in bars work ... coil of copper pipe (the python) runs through either a water or ice bath.

Whats the damage ..? Unlikely Bosch will know it’s been repaired unless it’s an obscure model and tbh if you keep them clean and descale occasionally they are pretty good for 5-7 years.

Done ... @epsilonGreedy Check the blog pages ..

Tempting.... said they had lost the first ones - I suggested that losing a box with the address on it, 4 bricks and a tile poking out was difficult ..! Amazingly about an hour later they were “found”.....

I had to supply samples ... of reclaimed bricks ..!! Initially they wanted a match to the previous building however when I told them it was built in 1992 of a “reclaimed brick” that it would then be impossible to match... I created a couple of sample panels using bits of ply as spacers to build next to the existing wall and then took photos ... 10 minutes later with photoshop I had copied the mortar from the old wall to the new “wall” and submitted them as photos with a black line to delineate - followed this up with a couple of random bricks to the council office and that was it ...

If you want to change it you may well have to apply for either a non material amendment or reapply for discharge of the condition - both will have a fee attached and they will charge you ....

Does that toe have a water proofing layer ..? Is there some sort of membrane or are you just putting some sort of drain at the bottom ..?

You can get that Suffolk Oak in 2032x813 as a standard size from Todds for £81 inc VAT Its a standard size - add 60mm all round for linings and you’ve not got much to pack out https://www.todd-doors.co.uk/cottage-oak-door

From the links you know the supplier and name so just go ask your local BM for a price ..?? Alternatively try someone like Huws Gray online and get pricing through them - full loads of mixed inc blocks always get decent prices

Foam... quick, easy ...

The Quinetic switches can do this (crossed with @JSHarris) and I'm using them for lighting https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Quinetic/index.html

It has been discussed before - brick factoring happens a lot and they now trawl the planning portals looking for where a spec has been approved and one of their products may well match. Your best bet is make friends with your local BM and let them know what you are doing - you’re about to spend upwards of £50-70k on materials that they could see a good chunk of. Price is only one factor in the mix - service and delivery need to be up there too as getting that last “extra” drop on a Friday so your trades can start at 8am Monday can be worth the extra 1% discount you managed to get buying online ....

No but any change in direction should be as smooth as possible - 90 should be 2 45s etc

OK - in W Plan you have an anomoly in the wiring which means if you are in heating only mode there is still a back link to the stat for the DHW to trigger the valve to move over. I've isolated this as my expectation (and calculation..) is that my heating load is marginally higher than the DHW. Also, DHW will be taken to 47c by the ASHP overnight before the E7 immersion kicks in to take the tank to 65c. Clear as mud..?

Yep see attached... Bear in mind... I run a Telford HP UVC at 47c from the ASHP, and a buffer for the UFH at 38c. Its a modified W Plan which allows me to switch temperatures on the ASHP with the diverter valve microswitch. The relay just isolates the UVC stat so ensures I can run buffer only even when the tank stat is calling for heat. Heating Schematic V2 2504.pdf

Who's ASHP is it..?? Mine (and the one @readiescards has) needs the pipe stats to control the ASHP, so it may be that yours has internal controls.

Yep my bad - they are different to the ones I've used as they only have the one O ring.