PeterW

Kingspan have a standard product called ThermaTaper Available here

You buy it pre-cut, it’s available from Kingspan

Thanks @lizzie So the trap is part of the actual unit itself so can’t be replaced. It fits into a 40mm pushfit from the looks of it so it’s a relatively simple fix to put a Hep20 dry trap in the waste and let the u-bend dry out. It needs a slim plumber by the looks of it so @Nickfromwales your luck is out ..! ?

Looks like 40 solvent weld but that sleeve is just a mess ..! Couldn’t be bothered to buy a 40mm universal compression fitting ..!!!?? As you are finding out, MVHR doesn’t produce a lot of moisture - I’m surprised the outlet is so large as it’s normally 22.5mm overflow pipe. What’s above the shelf and what sort of unit is it ..?

Decent rods will flex - I would be running straight from the IC and the only angle would be the 45 going into the main sewer run.

Chambers such as the one linked usually come with 4 or 5 bungs fitted as it’s rare to use all of the inlets. Bear in mind it all has to be a minimum of 50mm above the main sewer level - you can’t rest pipes on each other so all of your house levels have to come in I would expect 200mm above sewer level to start with. I would also put long slow bends on any run into the chamber so they can be rodded easily from the chamber. No idea why your architect is saying use separate flows for the stacks either - I prefer using a combined stack as you know it’s going to be continually flushed through and less likely to get blocked by infrequent use.

Standard would be fine - it’s got so high a load spec and the concrete would spread any point load.

Concrete needs to be 100mm in the garage - preferably with rebar or mesh in it as 50mm isn’t that thick to park anything on.

So Ebico have just dropped their zero deal and have lumped in a 25p per day standing charge which now makes it very expensive as they haven’t dropped the unit rates either.

That isn’t a real issue as 7500mm2 is around the same as a 97mm diameter pipe. All that you would find is an increase in velocity (and potential noise) from the vent but it wouldn’t be a lot. Have a look at Timloc for decent roof vents in pretty much all roof tile profiles.

I think you’re making work for yourself and even creating a bigger issue. You could be creating problems with differential movement between the concrete and the slabs. Also, how will you drain under the slabs ..?? I would be looking at leaving what is there and capping over with a new fully waterproof - and guaranteed - membrane and then finish that with something removable.

You’re not reading it correctly pavers and sand off - then add the Membrane over top of existing concrete (repaired and smoothed) and then put sand and pavers back on. The idea with upstands won’t work with your current blocks as they are made for square pavers.

Want to send him this link ...?? Waterproof concrete It’s not like it’s from the largest supplier of concrete products in the UK....

I think then you need plan B which is to take the pavers up and have a company come in and put a full EDPM membrane across the whole of the deck including sealing up the edges of the frames for the roof lights and then re-lay the the pavers onto this as otherwise you will be forever chasing rainbows with this one.

@daiking May be worth starting a new thread with some pictures then ...

... anyone... anything .... any pie ..... @daiking what was the issue with the UFH ..? If it is the balancing then tbh it’s now as quick to get the auto balancing heads for the valves and be done with it.

1:40 you can shutter in easily so there should be no problem with less than that. Forget you had vac panel insulation in there - that won’t survive the concrete being ripped off it .... Any chance you can reconsider this as not being a driveway ..?

By the time you have mucked about you will have to dig the concrete up anyway so I would take the lot up and start again. Sounds like the clown circus who put the rubber down didn’t do it properly and you need to get it up and get it done right. Unless there is a desperate need, I wouldn’t be putting another layer of concrete in as this could end up coming up in future .... You need to design in some sort of drainage mechanism too - either that or ditch the pavers and go for waterproof concrete to the last 1” and then use resin bound gravel as the top surface and create a multi layer surface that has waterproofing built in every layer by design.

It’s what I used - downside is that it doesn’t fit any of the standard fittings as is 63/50mm. Detail is here

Multipanel do a really nice U Trim in different finishes that would work to cap any edge and seal it to make it water tight. Where you cut through for the waste, it needs to be well covered in silicone ..! I do prefer that Corian on the link though ...

Yep as you should specify RC grade concrete not C grade to start with. Reinforcing also has to be completely encased in concrete otherwise you can get corrosion and concrete spalling that has significant structural impact. So unless it’s needed, don’t bother ..!!

I would get a big industrial dehumidifier in there ASAP. They will take a lot of moisture out very quickly.

So the drain in the new house plot becomes an adoptable sewer so you have to meet all the requirements of the sewerage company ....

Drain or sewer ..?? There is a big difference as you own the former, and if anyone is upstream you do not own the latter and need a lot of permissions.

Depends what you want to do and what was agreed. Have you got down to specific detail in the PP that says stuff such as “timber windows painted white with glazing bars” as changing those to an anthracite alu clad in pale green is going to be a problem. Materials are usually a reserved item anyway where the council will want samples - that’s something that will need you to go back and unfortunately it’s the time to approve (up to 8 weeks) that will cause you the issue. Sounds like your PP needs to be detailed enough to get through, but loose enough for variation ..!