PeterW

The thread on most UFH actuators is the same as a TRV - £9 gets you an actuator, you only need the stats and some 1mm T&E and you’re in business although unless you’re doing a lot of rewriring you will be making a lot of holes in walls ...

I wouldn’t use that with a 115mm core as it will probably mince its own gearbox and it’s not worth the hassle. There is a reasonable Marcrist core set in Screwfix at a reasonable price. It would save you the cost of the hire/wear on the bits although unless you’re doing lots and lots of cores, you will barely mark a hired core (assuming you can get one with an SDS chuck) If you are planning on coring through reinforced concrete then I would seriously consider hiring a framed core drill as it will be the rebar that snags the core and not the concrete. A frame will take the snatch load and stop it hitting you in the face or worse - likewise, never try and core drill from a set of steps as it will throw you off. As a comparison, I’ve cored 4 x 115mm, 4 x 48mm and a couple of 65mm cores through heavy block and reclaimed engineering bricks and did the lot in less than a day with a hired unit. Cost me about £40 inc the core drills. To buy a decent unit and cores you are north of £350 so are you really saying you need one for more than 5 days as you’ll only get 50% back for it.

Oil has fallen over the past 3 years but over 7 years has stayed at a median price. It’s use is diminishing so it’s not hit with the volatility or general growth that vehicle fuels are hit with and also not subject to the increasing taxes. The issue with wind and solar is they cannot guarantee the base load so we need either fossil or nuclear to maintain this and the cost is in this element predominantly for the energy markets. Wind and solar pretty much have a high £/MW install but a near zero ongoing cost in relation to the traditional generators.

Me too..! The SLR had its faults, including the delightful issue of the gas plug going in both ways up yet only working one way up... I had the joy of playing with most stuff up to GPMG however if you wanted a real big boys toy, the MILAN2 was sooo much fun !!

My desk is curved and at the centre of the curve it’s 50cm deep - edges are 35cm and it’s barely 65x95 in total dimensions. It’s fine for working at a PC and mouse. The issue you may find is the size of chair - small chairs are not comfortable and if you are sitting for a long period then you may need to consider this.

You can make a frame with 6x1 and then plant on stops, or you can buy frames that are adjustable to any width.

Beware that the boiler will short cycle then and won’t modulate down far enough to go direct to the UFH. Is this being done as a number of zones ..?

With a mix of UFH and rads are you having a buffer tank ..?? What’s the DHW via ..?

It’s per submission so worth getting them all in as one ..! I did a about 14 from memory on one - and a lot were far from non-material ..!!

Sorry just seen you’ve no external corners so just fill away !!

@zoothorn You don’t need metal or plastic bead unless you are skimming. You our could use dry line reinforcing tape which is normally used on taper board edges Corner Tape

@Weebles just be cautious about big screens - check they will actually go through doors and up staircases, especially if there are any turns.

Hi and welcome @testom Thanks for the link - it’s something I had seen before but only parts so useful to get a copy ! The problem you have using Auto setting is that it needs you to change SW6 on the FTC not the unit itself to allow the unit to use the auto flow temperatures and they are too low for the current use that you would need as they are 28/20c depending on setting. Auto is only really good for using as a single flow source - the best unit to control these is the FTC however they are very expensive (£450/€500) and are not fully integrated with the older heat pumps. What is your experience of electronics ..?

That’s nowt..! Plenty of simple fixes can sort that lot.

I looked at these for a project and BCO wanted 250l per person space - so for a 2 bed he wanted 750 litres, 3 bed 1000 litres etc. If you want some good advice, try these guys who I have used before and are very good and will give you advice on what to buy. MPC Services

Go get some Toupret or Alabastine filler which is a powder based one and use that to fill the holes and edges - it dries finer and sands easier as otherwise you may go through the paper if you sand too much.

That is a proper tidy job - well done that man ..!!

Nope... You have a mixer valve on that manifold that will only allow the hot to enter the system when it needs it. So as @JSHarris says, the "cold" is the loops coming back from the floor as they will be lower temp than the valve to the point that the valve meets it set temp and the flow is purely within the loops. Is that mixer second hand as it looks like its missing a few bits too...

My (recent) experience of three of the big names in UFH is a complete lack of understanding of anything outside of min regs properties and anything that is not in their current design set. Most have very little understanding of heat load for a whole house, it’s “about the walls and windows”; low temperature flow is “wrong as the house will never reach temperature”; multiple zones “are the future”; and “no-one wants basic controls, they all want apps”.... Everything quoted above is from direct quote requests from a set of plans, wall specs and requirements given for a reasonably well insulated and airtight new build of 82sqm downstairs and 61sqm upstairs. To give an example of pricing of materials only, they range from £2.9k to £4.7k with the most expensive one including £1,400 of controls alone in the price... and they wonder why people go elsewhere ..??

Use battens below the membrane and create the void there. Saves on counterbattens but some of the other insulation types are full fill and the breather membranes can cope with this - the Cromar ones we use are certified for full fill and no air gap. If cost is no issue then I would go with sarking board every time and full fill that but make the joists 200mm.

Reading this, is there any wonder why most installers just stick these units in with default values and walk away.??! There is a real market opportunity here for tuning ASHP installations properly .....

So if you go earthwool over PIR between the battens you won’t meet building regs for the roof uValue with just 100mm - would need to be double. On the multifoils - and this is my personal opinion - they are a waste of money and pointless at the point you are looking to install. They work as an airtight layer inside but that’s it. I would go with the following slate batten standard breather membrane 150 joists 120mm PIR in two layers 50mm PIR internal layer taped as VCL counterbatten plasterboard Its also a warm roof build up too...

@Digmixfill that floor make up is barely building regs and with UFh that’s going to lose a lot of heat. Have you spoken to your architect about changing any of that design and losing the lower slab in place of more insulation ..??

They need to be done before you make the change as it could be expensive to fix if it’s not acceptable.

It’s to do with block sizes. A block is 215mm tall, 225mm with a mortar joint. A standard brick is 65mm tall, 75mm with a mortar joint. That means a block equals 3 bricks. Imperials are 73-76mm tall so with a thin joint of 2mm you will end up at 75-78mm, or 225-235mm per 3 brick courses so that is roughly similar. You would probably need something like this but the manufacturer would need to confirm - not cheap !