PeterW

Welcome Chris Deep clay around Newark must put you arround the river somewhere toward Rolleston..? Good luck with N&S planning ... I’ve seen them u-turn on pre-app before but a good architect will get you through the mire..!

Mirror film on the inside would work to stop that.

Yes but only through a 245 beam with a minimum 3m span ... https://www.jamesjones.co.uk/assets/downloads/subdir/SAL04-20jm Site construction guide Sept 17.pdf

Never heard of open web joists sagging - they are usually well specified and over engineered. The issue is normally when they aren’t being used as designed and additional loads have been added or the ends have not been restrained correctly. I prefer open web but they are sharp on the edges so you have to be careful with pipes and wires. The downside with I-joists is that you can get trades putting holes in the wrong place as there are very strict rules that are provided with the products. Sadly, some trades can’t read ....

Could you not have them 750mm wide and double hinged and monkey bolted..?? That would allow the middle 1.5m to open then if you pull the monkey bolts then it would allow the doors to fully open ..??

It was from a flat roof into a gulley - this is through a parapet which is very different. Not difficult to design out this sort of stuff either ......

And lose the ridiculous hopper through the wall ..!!! Make the “flat roof” slope towards a natural exit, and then you’re not penetrating a decent wall and creating a potential damp issue. If you want some advice on this - ask @jack

Am I the only one not seeing the thermal bridge here..?? Bring the ICF up with a thinner inner, insert a timber wall plate in the top of the ICF to cap the concrete core flush with the last course. Secure this with anchors and then cap with a nice aluminum flashing. The bridge would be your core but tbh by the time you’ve come up through and insulated roof space, you will be at a negligable bridge point.

Pump on the AB side drawing down would pull against the seal on the valve - so if it’s on A then it could pull both A and B. They use the slight water pressure to hold the seals closed.

TBH an extra 150mm both ways would be not noticeable and would allow for a 175mm blown bead cavity that would meet regs and be very quick and easy to build.

Best route if it’s definitely thin walls you want is to go with EWI or even consider using one of the many ICF systems as it will give you BRegs walls with air tightness and as thin as you can probably get. Otherwise to get to regs you now need cavity plus internal insulation and you’re not going to gain any room space with that.

I’m with @Declan52 on this If you don’t want to go with insulated PB or a hard plaster then you can use 25mm batten infilled and tape to make it airtight. Board over the top and job done. Skim PB 25mm batten / insulation 100mm medium block 150mm cavity blown beads 100mm medium block 15mm render You’ve also got your skin purpose back to front - the inner skin is always load bearing not the outer.

I re-read mine just now and it’s 45 days in a single period, but doesn’t state how many days between 45 days you need to be resident ...!! So one night may do it ..! As a word of caution on these clauses too, I know friends who went away for 35 days over the summer to France and found that despite the policy being in joint names, and their 22 year old son living there full time, the policy only covers the policyholder for not being at the property (this is one of the big insurers from memory) so even if you have someone stay at the house it still may not be covered.

I spoke to a broker about the risk Profile on builds and they reckon a higher number of claims happen toward the end of the build and the repair cost is greater. He said they had dealt with a build where a customer screwed through a main water pipe upstairs on the day before completion, flooding the kitchen ceiling below and damaging the kitchen cabinets, appliances, wood flooring and the ceiling. That probably ran to a significant claim whereas knocking a partially built wall down with a JCB or the like is probably cheaper to wrap up without a claim at all as it will be within the excess.

Just use MR plasterboard then. Not like it’s in an area that will be constantly wet.

+1 to Cromar. We found it was who made the local merchants own brand and was certainly cheaper than the main brands but very good quality.

Sorry I’m lost here ... Are you saying there is an opening at the end of the house so the extension will extend an existing room ..? So you want to support both back walls to create an opening ..? 8m steels to support the back of the house will probably need to be 356x127x39 so they will be 320kg each. Splicing those will need some serious work so you may need to go even deeper... You can just about span the 8m with just roof loads using a 254x146x43 and it may be better just spanning the whole build 3 times and then using timber between the flanges. It would be quicker and possibly cheaper. The SE really needs to get a good idea of what you need as if not, you could end up with some nasty drops in the ceiling where the steels go

For the sake of differential movement I would go with brick and block everywhere. Footings will be the same regardless and if you’re building on a boundary it will be quicker as the outer skin can go up at the same time as the inner blockwork. What concerns me is the roof span as there are no internal supports. That is going to need some serious work with either steels or very big timbers. You’re on the edge of the capability of a 373/146 posijoist at that span and potentially need to go to a 416/122 which are huge - and expensive ..! What has your architect / SE planned for the roof ..?

I’ve just done F/T/F on some lounge windows that are 1750x1100 and having the tilt and turn in the middle did save about £90-100 per window and this was 3G uPVC.

Fascinating to watch ..! Welcome ..!

Bolt the last joist to the wall ...

A good place to start is Arbtech who use registered tree surgeons across the country to do surveys and they aren’t stupidly priced. There are a lot of myths about tree surveys and the website is good at clearing a lot of that up too.

Ouch !!!! That’s a lot ..!!! Did you get a GPS map of the trees and accurate canopies for that or just the usual 12 pages with the 2 drawings from the BS ..???

Its not a pigs ear, it’s a Jews Ear... but with that link you’ve posted, the world is your oyster...

Picture please ...... do you mean instead of a brick under the cill there is a vent...?? I’d say no, as the ramp / access will obscure it but losing a single vent is nothing.