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AdamSee

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  1. Thanks for all the input fold. Had yesterday evening off so didn't get a chance to work on this. So my aim is to ensure that I don't constrict the airflow at it has a further 3 to 5m to go via flexible radial ducting (x3). my joists are 54mm wide, I would have to shave off 25mm (max) to be able to squeeze through a 60mm duct at 45 Degrees. The joist is supported every 40cm by the perpendicular joists which sit on that wall plate. So load on the joist is pretty well distributed. Which is fortunate, because there's no way of sister it for reinforcement. Making this adaptor is now pretty straight forwards. Going to mould it straight over a well lubricated bit of spiral duct, which has a piece of 60 x 200 ducting affixed to the side at roughly 12mm off the centreline. Can pop it off when its set, clean it up, then glue it back on with something abit more flexible and a few rivets.
  2. I did consider using PIR or polystryene and covering it in foil tape. Could then dig it or dissolve it out as suggested, but wouldn't have the an ideal internal finish. I had written off the idea of squeezing in a 54 or 60mm duct as it would mean shaving the joist down which I was under the assumption was a big no no. Granted the joist is supported along it's length by the perpendicular joists, so its got the least amount of load on it. And it would only need to be the corner removed. Unfortunately I can't access it well enough to sister it up. Will post some photos of the current situation tomorrow.
  3. Long story short. I have to squeeze a duct over a RSJ through a 50mm gap while mainingtaining 8,500mm2 of ducting area. This is to be used to extract stale air from the downstairs bathroom and utility and send it 16m up a 125mm duct to the loft mounted MVHR unit. So my question is. Has anyone made custom ducting from GRP? And can anyone forsee any problems with this in a inaccessible ceiling void? I've seen on Jeremy's blog that he's made a exhaust silencer out of MDF and others have made custom distribution manifolds out of timber. But I've not see anything made from GRP. I've thought about various other methods but due to time constrains my options are limited. I've attached some very quick sketches of the difficult location that I need to get the pipe in to. Part of the issue is that I have to squeeze the duct in-between a new RSJ and the existing floor joists which run parallel to it. The RSJ is supporting the floor joists which are perpendicular to the forementioned. This is actually helpful for duct running as it provides a void to run the duct through over my kitchen. But the new RSJ is too close to the parallel joists to get off the shelf fittings in and even it I could buy something I still cant get a square ducting coupler to join on to the side of a round duct (which is a spiral galvanized duct) My plan for making these fittings........is still a working progress, leaning towards making it as two halves using a MDF mould to ensure the inside wall is nice and smooth. Can readily join the two together when the things made. Thought about 3d printing but concerned about the strength, air tightness and would need to be made out of many small sections. Any thoughts, or ideas would be great. I've attached a sketch. Top drawing is a cross section view looking at the end of the spiral duct and a side view of the gap the custom ducting needs to squeeze through. Lower drawing is a plan view showing how the joists change direction.
  4. We had the same problem with a 10mm bottom plate on the RSJ. I didn't pick up on this issue until after it was fitted so had to make do with what the builders left me. The gap I had left with just too thin for insulated plasterboard, so I instead used plasterboard held in place with a lot (full coverage) of low expansion foam. Theres a lip on the frame which helps hold it in place while its setting the the inside edge of the wall was a MF structure which allowed an additional screw fixing. Seems pretty solid. Problem here is that there's no vapour barrier, it's a working progress.
  5. I've used 10 x 10 recycled plastic from here https://www.earth-anchors.com/product-category/lumber/ for decking in the past. Won't rot, so it's ideal for here. They have a free cutting service. Not sure if that extends to a free drilling service. But it's worth an ask. It's available in 8 x 8 which would work for rope posts. Just needs the holes (and the rope). What's your plan for fixing them? Can you dig near the edge or allowed to bolt to the hard standing that is the edge. Best of luck.
  6. Glad I did it the way I did as it's a really tight fit to get the waste pipe around the corner before it hit the next pipe along. The hot and cold ended up the wrong way around, but by fitting them above and below makes switch sides less messy. Still have the cut away more for the shut of access. But otherwise pretty happy with how it ended up. I'll put a picture up when the entire room is finished.
  7. Probably could have gone that way too. But I got the idea in my head to put both isolators next to each other.....then couldn't see any other way to do it.
  8. Apparently I had limited parts and wanted it done this evening so I used the left over pipe to redo it. A small crease formed in the middle, but nothing major. But it did end with a small flat/straight section at the top of the bend. The whole job was alot of faff just to make sure that that I didn't have to pass a 40mm infront of the pipes and possibly not leave enough room for the washing machine to sit infront. It's all done now. Theres a mix of hep2o, soldered joints and pipe bends. Was a good first experience of pipe bending.
  9. Pushfit might have to be the way to go. For some reason, even though no one will ever see it, I still want it to look half decent. Still got a length of pipe left. May give it another hit and see how it goes.
  10. After some opinions on my copper bends. I'm trying to bend some copper pipe in to 180° to avoid soldering 2no. 90° together. Unfortunately I get a crease in it from where I have to rejig it in the pipe bender. Would you use it or find another way? Once it's fitted it's trapped behind a unit so it's not going to be accessible for a repair and it feeds water just to an outdoor tap.
  11. I would say that it's critical. I guess you could retro fit helical bars used in crack stitching on either side of the wall. Same as Mr Punter has said; use screw in wall starters. Possibly just take off the top few bricks if there not fully set yet and fit them.
  12. I built a deck for my parents summer house using recycled plastic wood bought from this place. https://www.earth-anchors.com/product-category/lumber/ The deck is in a really wet part of the garden and was worried that using timber for the structure and supports would mean that in a few years I would be doing it again. The top was still finished off using bod standard wood decking from wicks so that it could be painted to match. Peace of mind is worth its weight in.......recycled plastic, because its really bloody heavy if I remember correctly.
  13. I'm not sure if there are suitable alternative of hooks to use with the Bott system other than their own brand. You can buy a mix pack of hangers and you can arrange them as necessary to hold things. I would expect to spend the same on hooks as I would the wall panel. For holding items such as cordless drills its best to combine 2 different hanging parts to make a "holster" suitable for it. Items such as hammers, screwdrivers, spanners, etc, all have their own dedicated hook. Here's the ones I hung in my dads garage for him. Panel 1 of 2 (circa 2011) Again, there's plenty of inspiration on google.
  14. The Bott Perfo panels are good. The last commercial workshop I was in had made walls using the panels to split up the different areas of the shop floor. Was great for quickly reorganising the place. If you have the time and tools. I would go down the French cleat system. Google has many images of how it works. You an make a dedicated holder for everything and rapidly rearrange it.
  15. Yes, I was proposing setting it a few cm lower so that if necessary you could pack above it with a bit of timber.
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