PeterW

Not sure who did his sums but Euro6 diesel is ULEZ Compliant. Is he talking about Congestion Charging and CVD discount that makes it zero CC for his vans during the day ..??

Thats a contract law scenario. In the event of a failure to meet a statutory legal requirement, the liability is immediately transferred to the installer. We contract subs to install to G3 BRegs requirements - if they fail to do so, and in the event of an installation failing as it was not installed to G3, liability passes to the subcontractor. We are not G3 certified so cannot be liable for the install. If we didn’t check they were correctly certified then it’s our responsibility.

... or the people having to buy new charging cables every 6 months as the ends fell off ...

That can’t be right ..!! I’ve got 28mm 3G at lower than that.

Common misconception down here as GSR tend to be who have G3 certs as they go hand in hand. Not under English Law - the installer is the accountable person as they hold the certificate to say they are competent.

Ok - a suggestion if you can afford it is to rebuild the wall double thickness and put a 3ft fence on top. It’s dog proof but also as “permanent” as your original.

First stop is check what your insurers will accept ...

Only really seen Silicon Bronze nails and fixings used in boat building as they are more resistant to corrosion than some stainless steels (that require an element of corrosion to protect them) @JSHarris May well have used them too and have a view.

LED panels from V-TAC at a really good price. I’ve used these and there is no interference from the drivers and very well built. https://www.bltdirect.com/595mm-x-595mm-led-flat-panels

In the original post ...

@Jilly Foul drains you can pretty much do yourself. The SUDs element may need an attenuation tank design but tbh it takes 10 mins to work out the rainfall for the gutter design, then once you know the volume you’re getting in a storm, it’s a lookup as to the volume needed based on permeability. If you’re reusing elements such as roof purlins and trusses then that can take some time as it has to be surveyed properly. What elements are remaining ..?

22m at 2 storey and 28m at 3 storey are the ones I’ve seen. Search your local councils residential planning guide - example here

Oddly they are pretty efficient and it is well documented on the method of heat exchange and how it works. The issue is rate of change, as the air changes per hour of a room are less than optimal for heating purposes. You may also find you’re the “wrong way round” if you have a stove in a living room as that would normally be an input room not an extract room, so heated air flow would need to be via doorways and corridors first.

Just bear in mind that you also need to run antifreeze in the whole system if it’s direct connect - dosing and filling is one issue if it’s direct, but a buffer increases the volume and subsequent antifreeze need and cost.

Depends ..... If you get a decent ASHP with full inverter driven compressor and modulation down to a low level then you can go direct from ASHP to manifold. The issue becomes when you need something with a peak load higher than a small unit (ie need a 8/12kw unit due to higher heat requirement) that the modulation doesn’t go low enough and when the zones start shutting off and you reach within 2-3c of the blending point you may get short cycling. You can go for pure fixed flow temp from the ASHP and lose the blending sets etc entirely but this needs a decent controller that allows you to set up temperature curves. Second option is to use a small 60 litre or so buffer tank and let this smooth out the modulation and short cycling issues.

That isn’t right as you need access to it. Did they send a plan through before it was signed off and started ..?

English BRegs means you can either work on the basis of plans approval or using a Building Notice, which means you can start with 24 hours notice, and the inspector approves by stage. It is no cheaper, but it allows more rapid progress. The downside is that if the inspector spots something as you go, you could end up with costly rework - OK on an extension but wouldn't want to do that for a full new house build !

Have you got it switched to hammer..?

@newhome agree however Scotland doesn't have a concept of non-LABC Building Control.

You submit a CIL commencement note, not a BR note. Basically, you submit your Self Build exemption form, wait for a response from the council in writing, and then crack on. You don't need to tell them you have started.

Wood Finishes Direct have Osmo Clear UV Protection Oil with 20% extra in the 2.5l tin for £63 https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil

they will but you won’t get your £250 back @Water I’d write off the £250, file the CIL paperwork and walk away ... more hassle than it’s worth chasing the money.

Just remember that a lot of the cheap tariffs aren’t available on 3 phase so you may get stuck on a poor power deal. Also worth looking at the cost of a pair of meters and connections in side by side cabinets. Run the house loads from one, use the other to do garage, garden, lights etc.

Can get 140mm splashbacks in glass in a number of colours.

Zero impact on climate change. It has significant ecology impact though.