GemmaG

just looking through these and trying to get my head around them but they all show the window/door in the correct position. Our doors are entirely in the brick skin.. the open cavity is within the house just plastered over. Looking into new builders but so hard to know who to trust after all this.

Thank you. The cold bridging was the reason we brought the doors inwards some. They have come back today and silicones around the skirting board. Given up trying to get them to understand what I am saying with the cavity.. it’s all plastered in and hidden now. They did do a vertical dpc over the insulation but that’s not gonna help with the cold or it being fire safe but at least I’ll get a fensa certificate for the whole bodge!! If I want the insulation ripped out and the cavity closed properly do I need a builder? I’m worried il get the right answers again and end up back in this situation again.

I don’t know that expanding foam and rockwool is safe against the timber frame?

Would that be attached to the timber frame, go over the cavity and touch the bricks or keep it off the bricks?

We believe the issues was condensation. A dehumidifier has helped massively get us down from 75% to 50%. But again we chose a builder because if we had penetrating wet they could have helped supposedly.

What’s that? Link or picture?

He’d already plasterboarded up when I asked him to remove it and use the right thing.. had to show him what to use and how but he couldn’t get it to fit so I was put on the spot and just given the option of putting the insulation back in but less of it. i didn’t know what to say because I’m not a builder!! How do I get the right person because I’ve lost trust in myself to find the right one. we had multiple window fitter quotes but none would move the doors back like we wanted and these guys would plus live locally, recommended and fensa registered. Want to just pay them for the job and start over with someone else but ideally leaving the doors where they are.

The windows of the house are all set back in the timber frame but to do that with these doors would be a huge job as it would leave the block work above them all on show. Would these cavity closers work?

The last photo shows the original doors on the lounge set flush… unfortunately the builders have done not just one but two sets. Lounge and kitchen.

The doors are still in the cold brickwork but set back further than before. We thought the cold bridging to start with was down to the location of the doors being flush with the outside. The hinges actually set out of the wall. We used a builder as we wanted to move the door positions backwards and window fitters would not do it. Here are some pictures.

We have a timber frame house with brick skin. Our French doors were getting damp on the plastered reveals we believe to be cold bridging as the doors are in the outer skin. We hired a builder to put in new doors and open up the reveal to insulate and help against cold bridging. We have been working during installation and not been able to check every detail but he has removed the original timber cavity closer, shoved 4 inches of Celotex into the cavity and closed up the reveal with plasterboard and plastered. When I asked him did he fit a cavity closer he asked me to define what I meant as he hasn’t heard of them. Builder for 40 years ‍ There’s a huge draught coming round the skirting and it’s freezing. Is our only option to hire someone else to cut it al away again, pull out insulation and retrofit a cavity closer? Can they be retrofitted? Thank you

Think that's going to be key, keeping some of the original wall then it cant be seen as brand new

I was just following this https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/20/fences_gates_and_garden_walls/2 The wall as it is has 3 piers per 4m section so 6 piers in total and those are 1 brick thick. The end part of the wall that has a gate attatched is fully 1 brick thick and curved and that has pivotted about 2 rows of bricks up. Wind and ivy = wall being swivelled!

I'd expect a 1.5 brick thick wall to be more than that. I would much rather use fencing somehow incorporating the bottom few rows of bricks that are acually 1 brick thick. These ideas are all good providing the council keeps away lol

It's beyond repointing. One section leans back where the wall has broken in the middle. The insanely thick ivy is holding it up.