PeterW

How wet is your mortar ..? 8 or 9 courses shouldn’t be a problem but it’s to do with how quick it is going off. What mix are you using ..?

Chances are they have a contract to provide coverage to 95% of the village - they can then plan to optimize the route accordingly and ignore outlying properties.

For future reference, if you’re ordering the stuff for the house then use JTM Plumbing online as they are much cheaper for bulk.

Not wanting to curb the enthusiasm but if this isn’t something you’ve done before then you need to ask if the saving is worth the hassle or the cost of any error rectification later down the line. Ideally the caps need to be within +\-10mm tolerance in all planes - that’s square to each other and also the levels need to be correct. That probably needs a total station, so add in £2-300 for hire of that. Rebar placement has to be done accurately as if you’re drilling caps at a later date (some show a resin bolt..?) then the rebar has to be out of the way of the holes. I would focus on cutting cost elsewhere and get this done by a contractor and give them the problems if it’s wrong.

Flow rate on a heat pump is really low - 3-6 litres per minute at most - and they also only increase the temperature by a small amount each time. You would need a heat pump the size of a combi boiler (24kw upward) to try and do anything like a combi and that could be north of £12-15k plus a 3 phase supply...

Single 9ft bay fully boarded with toe boards and clips is about £200 from Scaffolding Supplies They have a 56ft x16ft run for £1350 which is a bargain tbh

Kwikstage uprights are 9ft, ledgers are 8ft and transoms are 4ft 6” so minimum bay is 8x4ft by 9ft high

As this is only running a single shower or tap, I’d be inclined to do as @JSHarris says and install a pipe between the two buildings. I would go 15mm as that will reduce the flow a little but make the hot water to the workshop a bit quicker to run through. 15mm Hep2O with 25mm of nitrile insulation on it will fit inside a 110mm drainpipe easily and also allow you to chuck something like CAT5 I’m there too rather than the same duct as your power so will help with WiFi or alarms etc. Would expect the whole lot should be change of £100 for the bits and a days digging. Will need to be ideally below 350mm for frost reasons.

Ask them to quote for the Building Control too and you may find it’s cheaper than having LABC BCO and a separate warranty.

How difficult was that flash of the Sonoff and does it make them more reliable ..? Got a thought about using one with IfTTT control on the humidistat for an MVHR but allowing it to be manually controlled via a phone and also being able to set the humidity threshold without a faff

Trestles are banned on most sites now - they don’t have handrails and even a fall from 4ft can be fatal. Buy some Kwikstage and be done with it - it will last you the whole build.

You will end up dropping the worktop height if you don’t lift the kitchen as the worktops will be lower by the insulation and floor depth

Check the floor is actually level too - most old garages were laid to a 1:150 slope which can catch you out so need levelling before the PIR goes down

So the maximum lease is 999 years - and you could mortgage The issue is “the other 5...” who could cause you real problems when your father dies. As it stands, the land is let’s say worth £50k, and your father has £250k of additional assets. Easy split, you keep the land, your siblings split the assets and everyone is happy with each getting £50k. Fast forward 5 years, you’ve got PP and built a house on that land. It’s now worth £140k due to the increase in value from PP, and the estate is now worth £390k. In an equal split, each should get £65k, but in reality it looks like you get £140k and the rest get £50k each ... so are you now going to put your hand in your pocket to the tune of £75k to equalize your gain to their loss..?? With a lease, it’s still his asset, and that is where the complications start. He needs to update his will accordingly and make it clear who is getting what and agree that now while everyone is still alive ...

Labour or materials ..?? £12/m for materials, £18/m for laying assuming it’s block both skins and ties / insulation needed

Wickes are mid range quality and on the high side of price of the non-bespoke kitchen providers. Carcasses aren’t too bad, door quality can be suspect so check carefully if you go that route Their fitting is as variable as Wren - all depends which crew you get ..!! As @SiBee mentions, DIY Kitchens are really hard to beat for quality and price, well worth a trip. This would be the equivalent to what you are looking at - Clayton Carbon painted

Simple question - have you ever actually been involved in the process in a hands on way..?? There are a few people on here talking from hands on manufacturing experience which is different to talking to manufacturers about it (some of whom would rather you didn’t know what goes on...) The exothermic reaction doesn’t reach a far high enough point to boil off all water vapour, and this would hence cause an issue. Keeping moisture out of big boat building sheds has always been an issue, they are not by design the driest of locations ....

Roof has 2 sides ...???

Utter rubbish ..!! Most cabling is now underground anyway ..!

Vents are better on the roof plane rather than the ridge. Ridge vents are more for exhaust from gas and soil stacks where you want to create a negative pressure to draw the air from the vent.

Just rip it all up and start again. Get the OSB off the roof, get it replaced with new OSB3 and start it off properly. The cost of a few sheets of material vs a new roof is not worth the hassle.

Flip the floor over - puts all the water and waste at one end. Upstairs toilet won’t pass Part M either looking at the size. I think you are pushing it to get 4 bedrooms in downstairs with that layout how about a rethink where the stairs are in the middle of the two sets of full height windows ..? The stairs won’t have anywhere near enough headroom with that wall layout anyway - you can recon that you need 10 steps showing in a well from above with a standard pitch. You also have your kitchen island and breakfast bar with their back to the window - you could rotate that all 90 degrees.

If you are using multi-panel, why are you even bothering using anything on the block work ..? It can go straight to the blocks.

Any reason not to put some between the joists ..??

Yep they are. There is a standard set of calculations as to how much storage you need somewhere. I’ll see if I can find it.