PeterW

Hep2O where it’s not seen and run through joists and walls in long runs, end feed copper where it is seen and I want it rigid - takes a bit more time but makes me happy to see it (and then cover it up with insulation … @Thorfun when you are running Hep2O pipe, drill any holes oversize and sleeve with either overflow pipe (21mm) for 15mm pipe or 32mm waste for 22mm pipe runs. It stops you scoring the pipe and creating potential joint weeps. If you’ve got metal web joists you can just zip tie the short sections on to the webs.

28mm is big - sure it’s not 22..??

Web based GUI to set it up and not sure how simple but assume it is ..!!

Search reverse PoE.. Not unmanaged but nice kit all the same for change of £30 https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/products/41685-tp-link-tl-rp108ge/

These guys can do your steel laser cut piece - up to you now you then finish it https://gboutdoorfires.co.uk

Drop the council conservation officer an email asking if you need permission as the neighbour next door has just done xyz and you’re thinking of doing the same …

Agree with the above, plus you need blender / buffer as your ASHP has to either modulate all the way down to the lowest heat emitter (ie shortest loop) or it will short cycle. And don’t rely on the ASHP pump to circulate the UFH.. @Joshua Graham you don’t say what final floor finish will be - that will affect your choice of system you use.

You can use the standard one - it is how it is wired that matters See above - the only issue usually occurs when the immersion is in a pre-plumbed ASHP cylinder as they sometimes have a controller for the immersion for the boost or an unneeded legionella cycle. Not difficult to rewire and I’ve seen one where there were contacts for the booster on the controller.

£350 is about the going rate but depending on how much you are exporting that’s probably pay back in 18 months.

3 core 35mm2 is a monster cable - not ducting it and hoping to pull it is he ..??

2 core or 3 core ..? I use these guys now as the old supplier I had closed down https://armouredcable.net/armoured-cable/35mm/35mm-2-core-armoured-cable.html Why 35mm out of interest as that’s good for 180A - 25mm would do 140A which is more than adequate for a house and the voltage drop is 6.5v on that distance. It would save you £100..

They don’t make it anymore, and it’s tolerance was +/-3mm which caused issues with aligning skins. Much easier to go partial with a gap - 100mm cavity boards with a 20mm gap doesn’t lose you much but your brickies will be much happier.

Something wrong with that calc as brick/insulation/block doesn’t allow for a 3mm cavity - you need to leave 10mm. Using standard 90mm PIR you will get 0.18W/m2k but that’s just enough to scrape building regs

No no no no !!!!! That’s not legal and you are not allowed to push water back into the cold feed..!!!! That’s proper dumb American plumbing ..

Yep in a house it’s fine but this is a caravan technically and it will only have say 70-100mm of insulation at best.

I’d use 12mm ply on the inside and paint that as a finished surface - will provide the racking strength plus it’s a single membrane.

Depends what you use it for but tin can be noisy in the rain. Full clad will be even more noisy

FU on the ideal is a temperature error which is down to flow normally. Check no-one has closed a valve in error, and check the pump actually is working. Dead pump, failed zone valve or blocked heat exchanger would all do this. Start with pump and valves - move them manually and check if it clears.

Not as easy as you think ..! Drainage, power and water all need to go in at first fix and not as an afterthought. Duct for the power for a hob is cheap, water may need some thought.

Are there trickle vents in the doors at the top ..? other thought is this is damp from the cavity - @zoothorn have you got any pictures of when you did the reveals ..??

Is that on your plans as it needs planning over 300mm How much do you need to make up ..? Porcelain on pedestals really needs a solid surface

I agree and disagree with this - they are there as an inspection service to ensure building regulations are met. That’s why they charge for inspections and that’s why you have to have trenches inspected prior to a foundation pour. In some poor ground situations you could have trenches that will not stand waiting 4 or 5 days in the wet - who’s paying for additional shoring just because the BCO can’t make it for 4 days on a 2 day SLA…?? It’s a service - they should either meet it, or if they can’t they contract it out. In terms of drains tests, the local BCO here requires a pressure test and a 15 min standing water test - how can you witness that with a couple of photos ..??

Nothing stopping you paying more to your supplier - they won’t complain if they are earning the interest not you on the money.

Love to see how they would do a drain test ..!!! Annoying that they charge you £250 for inspections and then it’s down to sending your photos … given they also want to inspect trenches before a pour, what’s the SLA on responding to you sending photos

Ok you have to disable the dns on each individual unit and make it dumb, and then you have to create the guest networks on each of the routers you install - this is separate to the DNS which allocates each device on the network an IP address and allows routing to the internet. This isn’t simple or easy to do as you also then need to access the units locally to reset anything unless you find some fun way of providing subnets and so on … So I refer back to my “less hassle” option that means you can reset the Wi-Fi from the other side of the world off a phone using the app… and not have to get out of bed to sort it when it stops working ..!