PeterW

Only comment would be that to service and check the potable expansion tank the engineer is going to have to climb over the top of the tank…!! Also, the tundish is buried at the back which makes me think the control group is also buried - again this is a potential service item so should be easily accessible. And is that a cheap DAB pump at the top ..? If it’s one you’ve had installed I would bin it now and save the headache when it fails and put a Wilo or Grundfos in its place.

No.1… get a new heating engineer as the last suggestion is not for a 350m2 house ..!! They cost of the heat pump is broadly irrelevant - if you go full mainstream grants and badged installers you will get mainstream prices. The same units can be fitted by a competent plumber and electrician who can read and follow instructions. The issue comes when you expect an ASHP to perform in the same way as a boiler and rads, which isn’t going to work as their efficiency points are different. First place is a full heat loss calculation, then look at fabric investment in insulation and air tightness, and finally price the heat pump that fits the required heating load. Final thought is unlike a boiler, they are not a one trick pony and can cool so you can have a setup where you get floor cooling in the summer - that isn’t possible with a gas boiler !

@Nickfromwales are you now …..?

Get the sparky to provide as they will have to sign it off..? Are there 3 phase breakers and panels installed at the kiosk ..?

pedestals are adding unnecessary cost and complexity - just bring the slab up to the correct level and lay the porcelain full bed and grout.

Context ..? Which board and where are you using it..??

@Nick Laslett like this ..? Better shot These are full lead dormers as a row of 3 in the roofline, all have dual gutter with the shoe on the outlet

@Nick Laslettthat is a pitched dormer ..?

Needs to be a certain size and within 1100mm of the floor so worth bearing in mind for when you re-do anything.

Multitrack has a puncture resistance of 1000N, Terram is somewhere around 14-1500N I think (ironic given it is Terram ‘1000’) but both are non woven geotex products so either would work.

Microwaves can be built in - you just need to vent from behind to the cabinet cavity and ensure it’s open to top and bottom.

Ok so you have something legacy that could be deemed as part of the building and your regs issue isn’t an issue, neither is planning if it’s been there for more than 10 years. As soon as you start messing around with major elements such as the stairs or roof space insulation you will trip into building regs approvals. What that means is you need to do it all to current regs and that can be onerous and also costly. I would potentially look at a piecemeal delivery of changing the various bits - start with the big disruption which is the staircase and then work back from that. You can insulate as you go, and then ensure that it’s done properly and makes the room above usable. That allows you to remove the old stairs and tidy up the currently unusable room. One question is does the upstairs have proper means of escape for fire regs ..? That is key to making this a usable space that has value as currently its just a storage space until you get the MoE in place.

Ok so even latex screed cracks but tbh I’m not sure what 4mm ply then 2-4mm screed will do over just using 6mm ply under Lino. If the floor was uneven in the first place then that should have been fixed - SLC there would have helped and then it’s a case of PIR and T&G flat over it all. Final finish of ply is only really needed for amtico or karndean.

probably 3-4 points - ask your SAP assessor or plug it into the model (assuming they sent it to you..?)

Water flows on the bottom of the pipe - start there with measurements.

What are you measuring …?? You’d be surprised that the WC pans aren’t all equal and I would measure to the inside of the bottom lip of the pan and do the same for the soil pipe. That will give you your true offset. If laying LVT I would just glue and screw down a layer of 6mm ply and then LVT over that, pan on top of the lot. If you need any more height then use another layer of LVT under the pan cut slightly back and then a decent sealant bead tooled properly would cover it anyway. That gives you 18mm and a downhill connection.

yes the stem of the button pokes through the hole where the handle is now. If you have it all to bits, taking some 120 grit sandpaper to the sealing faces and spending an hour cleaning up may work

it won’t seal into the fittings properly at 10° off centre. Quickest way is a pair of 22° bends and a decent amount of proper silicone grease on the seals as that makes them rotate nicely so you can square it all up. Is this a stack or a vent ..?? You can drop vents down in size if you speak to BCO.

Does the SMA see whole house load then to be able to divert to the immersion ..? Your only other issue may be the Unistor immersion being pre-wired into the controller to do crap such as sterilisation cycles and so on. You then may need to RTFM to see if the controller has an external contact that allows you to power the immersion directly, or wether the sparks can remove it from the controller and the Vaillant not have a hissy fit that it can’t see the immersion load - some ASHP controllers don’t play nicely.

Yes you need a gutter …! and don’t direct onto the lead, it looks messy … This is how we tend to do it with dormers - this is Brett Martin deep flow and the shoe is pushed tight on to the outlet spigot (sorry about crap photo !!)

You won’t get 90° elbows to get that close - and anything that has liquids passing down it needs to be 45° or 22.5° where possible. Don’t forget most soil brackets stand off about 35-40mm and when you try and work in corners you need to leave space to get the fixings in ..!! Saddles are sometimes easier to use than the fixings that have the captive screw/bolt and a single stem, Tesla’s are even easier as you can put the studs and the inner part on the wall and then move in and out to suit.

Same as the degrees ° is on an iPhone when you press and hold the zero … 😁

Don’t need to.. it’s on the editor on the top bar so you can do it from there…

Has to be a pair of 135°/ 45° and properly supported

LED panel lights just wired onto standard flex and plug. Lean them against a wall or against each other if you get a couple. Can be repurposed for the garage when you’re done.