PeterW

Start here - work out how to make the joists deeper for insulation purposes but irrespective of heating choice you need some insulation under that floor. This is pretty usual as they are quoting based upon it being old boards or floorboards - they use it to get a stable surface to then feather out any issues and lay the floor. I would look at a 2 stage approach to the insulation but would also question wall insulation too - a 1950’s house may not have the best insulation standard so is UFH going to be capable of heating the room .? Do you have space for the buffer tank as temperature will need to be controlled carefully or the LVT will move. You can sprocket existing joists with 6mm ply and then add more depth to allow for deeper insulation levels but I would question 100mm joists to start with - even at 400mm centres they are the weak point and you’re about to add a lot of static weight with a pug mix UFH system. If you’re about to take up the floor anyway, look to replace with 150mm at 400 centres and insulate as you go. First stop for me though is a proper heat loss calculation ..!

Standard Cat5E is fine up to 45W as long as you get the decent stuff with pure copper not CCA conductors

Bet he wants to put it in with 8 S’fix frame fixers and some foam and then a bit of frame sealant … dodged a bullet there ..!

Leave it alone ..!!!! A pumice liner is the Rolls Royce of liners ..!! Do not do anything to it, especially not a stainless liner ..!! This is your answer - you have to slow the burn at the bottom not the top. Choking the chimney is dangerous and could lead to more issues.

@LeanTwo if you speak to Trevor at Cylinders2Go and mention the forum and @Nickfromwales you should get a good deal. Telford allow you to add additional immersions wherever you need them. The issue you will have wanting to keep the boiler coil is that you need an F&E tank with a boiler stove, or at least a system to stop it overheating - that can be a quench coil or similar. That means your F&E has to be higher than the coil in the tank so bear that in mind.

Optical illusion ..! It’s because they are thinner they look longer but may have canted ends and they would have been made back in the day specially for that purpose. Lintels will need to be specially made for this too - there are better ways to do it tbh ..!

What is in the Manufacturers Instructions..?? That is what you need to follow to get the warranty.

No.1.. lose the bifolds as you’ll never use them and in a space that small they will intrude. If you were going to use them you wouldn’t be asking about alternate routes to the back of the house … No.2.. I make that pitch at about 13 degrees at most - ask him what tiles go that low..? No.3 .. the office has no window - it will be dark and not inviting, also may have BRegs issues with means of escape. No.4 .. put some roof lights in the extension otherwise the whole of rhe middle of the house will be dark

Echoing this - we would never work without a spec, and a bill of materials is standard to that anyway. You can’t price without it, unless you’re going on gut feel and he doesn’t know what’s going to crop up and you will not know if it’s £5 or £500 more in bits. instagram is subjective as they take photos of the bits that go well - I can spend an hour doing some perfect joints on a nice background with munsen rings and polished copper but if it’s not connected to anything then it’s mildly useless … Ask to see the client - I’m assuming he must have asked before he posted it all over the internet so shouldn’t be an issue.

Insert an ion exchange cartridge in the hose before the pressure washer - one of these would do it for quite a while. Can easily add a couple of cheap hose fittings to it as it’s threaded https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232518514655

Charlie Boy … stick to crayons and not facts please, they were bought in 2006, restructuring happened in 2008.. and then quality declined thereafter. So probably around when you left primary school.

I got the information from running a business that does M&E design and inspection services for a number of new build and architect practices … and as I said - have you ever actually seen one built as the quality used to be appalling as the accountants got hold of the build quality when Potton were purchased and it went seriously down hill. Is it ..? Is your view of fabric first that it takes away from your artistic licence to produce a unique one off design for a client that represents your design soul ..?? Or giving a client a house that overheats in summer and is cold in winter unless they take a 2nd mortgage to pay the fuel bill ..? Or are aesthetics more important than practicalities ..??

Is that a cash account for Jewsons..? If so… it’s whatever they feel like charging ..! Try here https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/ring-seal-soil-system-black-c-321/

Nothing … or a very small cost ! You can use standard stainless ties - 275mm are about 1p different depending on where you buy from. Lintels in 175mm cavity can be done using a 165mm cavity lintel or you could design it at 165mm cavity and still get decent uValues

Yes a number - and the standard insulation levels are bare minimum to meet BRegs. Also seen them fail air tests (this was down to approved installer issues) and they have (or had) a standard air tightness target of 5 ACH which is woeful - if you wanted anything more then it had to be paid for. Have you personally asked for a Condensation Risk Analysis on any of your designs ..?? And have they provided it other than the standard design elements ..??

Ever seen one constructed ..?? You may have a different opinion when you see the quality level.

So you say there are 8 more arches ..?? If so you will need to have each cut to order - the angles will be different on each size and to match the brick patterns on the architects plan (parallel mortar lines) then they will need to be cut at least twice and numbered. Expect to pay £2-300 per arch for specials to be cut and created for each one.

https://www.jjcrump.com/

They are Sheffield based so pretty sure they do

He’s never seen it done then ..! Get it done from the inside when you’ve just got blockwork and the windows and doors in, and make sure you close the cavity top with something like a cavity sock as otherwise it will go everywhere ..!! As @Radian says, this is 100PSi and the guys we use are very efficient - where are you im the U.K. ..?

yes..! vertical yes, horizontal at 600 centres or every joist but don’t forget your falls

I still love this pic as I think it is the only time in 25+ years I’ve seen the collets used correctly and the correct colour per pipe … It is the only time I’ve seen JG used and installed as per MIs..

You may do, but a lot of plumbers don’t and if you need someone else to add to the system then MLCP 16mm press fit is a real rare beast. Not even sure the rothenberger press for 15mm will fit either as it is tight on the fittings.

push fit and buy a proper tin of silicone grease… The Aquaflow stuff drom Toolstation is pretty decent if you want to buy as you go, otherwise I use Drainage Online and get lots in one go. if you can persuade your local S’fix to give you a trade account it’s currently 10% off bulk Hep2O too. Buy a pair of Rothenberger shears

And that’s why he’s retired… 10mm will easily do 8l/min at 2.5 bar which is more than the maximum allowable under then WRAS / water regulations flow rates. All cold supplies balanced from the control group, WC loop fed from the feed before the control group so a flush doesn’t affect balance. Basins and other taps in 10mm, shower or bath in 15/22 depending on flow requirements.