PeterW

It needs a Samsung wired remote and I think you will struggle to get one now as they are obsolete units. That’s slightly different to the standard Lossnay too looking at the wiring / circuit boards.

Don’t bother as Correx is just too thick - you would need about 50sqm or more to get 10-20% efficiency. If you only need a small unit - and this isn’t BRegs/SAP-Q etc then try one of these units from Boulder for change from £250 new. https://www.ventilationmegastore.co.uk/product/dhv-04-100b-unit/

This would do it and fit over your stub. https://victoriaplum.com/browse/close-coupled-toilets?csi=GSRCNR01&ds_kid=92700046205472684&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_Yn8v-nn5gIViLPtCh0Vdgp0EAQYAiABEgLHM_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds what is the plan for a hand basin..?

22mm without a shadow of a doubt. Glued to the joists and either screwed or nailed first board and then glue every joint. 5mm expansion joint all round and then use a decent sealant to fill that.

In old houses it’s usually due to small bore pipe work, such as 32mm, and soap / hair etc build up. Best way to clear that is one of the decent foaming drain cleaners down every trap followed by emptying the hot water tank through the pipes ... best done last thing at night so it can sit and dissolve the crud first then flush through in the morning.

Car Pollen filters are cheap - and they fit into standard extract boxes. You can get a filter box for £20, add a couple of ally L angles to the inside to hold the filter and pick up cheap square activated carbon filters for £4 each on eBay. Even if you change them monthly it’s not going to break the bank.

Have a look at this sort of place https://www.dreamdoors.co.uk/kitchens/doors

You can do all the work for a slab on your own and they are very forgiving - less so with beam and block and they take a lot of work to get level plus you end up with quite a high finished floor level when you use traditional block plus PIR.

When I looked into this I couldn’t make the maths stack up. If you take a standard ASHP with a 50c output and you want a 300 litre tank at 70c, then you’ll use a little over 1000kWh in a year. At direct electric prices on E7, that is about £70/yr. At a CoP of 2 - which is reasonably optimistic at 70c, this reduces to £35. A HT ASHP with a lifetime of 20 years would need to cost less than £700 more than a standard ASHP to make financial sense over using a standard 3Kw immersion to do the top up. Most I’ve seen are north of £12-1500 more so it’s a no brainer.

There are smaller discrete alarms but are retrofit only as they are not hard wired. Ask your BCO if they will accept them. They also come with a recess fitting that makes them even smaller. Search Cavius or Lumi-PlugIn

Could clad it with something like this which is low maintenance Other option is a Weber render.

Print a wedge up each side

You’ll need deep pockets for those .... made by Apollo from memory and about £250 or so each ...

From that I don’t think you’ve seen Fermacell installed. I’ve got a couple of jobs been done for over 10 years and only a couple of cracks where small panels were used to make up walls. The rest - including a 65 square metre sloped ceiling is still as good as when it was done. Fermacell joints are glued which makes a significant difference.

Example here https://www.paulheatrecovery.co.uk/components/moisture-heat-exchanger/

They are a law unto themselves so don’t expect a decent answer ... also worth working out the actual variation as I’ve done one where using non-VAT registered trades the VAT reclaim would be less than £10k for materials but the knock down and rebuild cost would be more than that.

It’s because the Lossnay units are fitted with a paper type enthalpy heat exchanger core. It allows transfer of humidity between the air flows.

don’t forget they will be toughened so you cannot cut them - they have to be the right size and also edge polished / bevelled

not correct ..!! You can use anyone that has a street works licence and is insured, and does it to standard street works specification.

One thing to do is strip the fan and clean the blades properly. We had a big ventilation fan that was very noisy until it was stripped and cleaned and the rotor was rebalanced using a file and it was much quieter. Other option is to make some square deflectors and fit them at angles just in front of the unit to try and absorb and deflect some of the sound.

It’s for fitting walk on glazing ... tells you when it’s level so it doesn’t leak .... ?

No - not unless you’re converting it to a new self contained dwelling (ie with its own address etc) and have written proof and even then they can be funny about it.

But the noise will make its way the most direct route ... which is windows and gaps around doors. Sound insulation between the floors will be irrelevant. I’d lay heavy acoustic rubber mat on the upper floor before putting flooring down.

Would need to be cement board as it’s external, but yes you could do that.

Sound isn’t your problem here - you need proper insulation as below is an unheated space. It will need PIR of 130-140mm plus the remainder filled with a sound insulation such as a Rockwool batt at 80-100mm. Odd question though, if you’re the only one there, you won’t hear the sound ..???? You can only be in one room at once ..??? On the lintel, I would have expected the guy rendering to run the bead horizontal and make the bow less noticeable.