PeterW

Have the doors got the maker numbers / delivery notes with them..? Photocopy and send to DoorStop..?? Show the doors are installed at your house..?

Got any no nails or similar adhesive...???? Cut a piece of batten 1" longer than the hole is wide. Glue the piece of batten over the centre of the back of the cut out bit of plasterboard so you have a round with 2 "ears" Wait til the glue is dry, then put a screw through the hole in your bit of PB/batten - make it a decent length screw so it just goes into the batten but leaves you plenty to play with. Good blob of adhesive on the "ears" and then feed it up into the cavity using the screw to move it into place. Then use the screw to wiggle/squidge down the adhesive and leave to set. Undo the screw, quick skim of filler and bobs your uncle.

No because he would have to show that he was using the materials that he was reclaiming for on zero rated contract work to HMRC in the event of a VAT inspection. The risk would be his too, and the penalties are severe !!

But once it’s installed then the water effectively becomes free, other than the cost to support the filtering ..?

Could you not get them to horizontally bore into the hillside just above the house and pick up the aquifer that way ..? There will be water below the culvert/ spring, is that not an option ..? Would be cheaper than pumping up to the top of the hill.

Doesn’t need to be glazed as they are frost proof

If you got a brick saw bench you could make wedges of the standard bricks - set the brick to 45 degrees and cut the face off.

TEK screws and the correct window straps ..?? Is the steel frame inside or outside the envelope of the building ..?

Standards or coloured engineering ..? Off the shelf in TP

Just watch out - I doubt the bricks match as over time it will have been extended etc, and you will need to try and match if you want them on show. The benefit of painting will be that you can use any reclaim - cheap as chips - as they will be painted when you extend. Most of the good modern (Sikkens, Johnstones) masonry paints is that they will go over any other paint that is stable. Just a decent wire brush of the walls will mean they are ready to paint as you need to wash off the muck and algae with a jet wash then roughen up with the wire brush.

This is a consideration for me too but I do need to have a proper look at the Hoggin available in the local area as I’ve seen varying quality. Depends what you read, but 5-20% clay is the required amount and it does need to be laid to falls.

Yes the Mira can go under the bath. You can use a single supply to both using a single RCD and then use fused spur connections (the shower needs one with 3A from memory) under the bath as they are deemed not accessible. Mira comes with a 10m cable for the controls - you can get the dual outlet bath/shower one that fills then bath via the shower unit and means your bath doesn’t need taps. Looks very neat and will save you on buying taps.

Not sure I follow here - solid concrete coursing bricks are 65x215x100. On the corner that would mean the corner comes out 185mm to then next block, or just shy of half a block which is fine for bond.

Twyford Galerie Plan and is open at the bottom but not by much.

This is where I differ on view and prefer micro inverters as they just export 230VAC to the house and don’t need anything else than a length of standard T&E from the roof to a suitable connection point in the plant room.

Legally you cannot install septic tanks any more. They have to be treatment plants as the sewage treatment is done in the tank rather than the leach field.

If you build a pillar in each corner it really ties in as you get a 225mm overall rather than 100mm I would cut to fit into the corners properly - it’s not difficult and the inside will be invisible anyway when you line with insulation etc

Yes but it’s only as strong as the fixings - how do you plan to attach it to the bricks ..?

I’d be storing a minimum of 10,000 litres and taking it off with a floating pickup - they sit about 8-10” down and you get none of the top surface or the silt. You will need filtration - @jamieled has just done his and it looks really tidy. Add a 500 litre accumulator after this and you’ll have plenty of water.

None of the above ..??? Steel up the middle would do it if it’s false but I’d want it a fair way down the cavity.

They can only charge for a property when it is classed as a rateable hereditament under the various acts. I think you asked something similar previously

The semi-peds don’t take any weight they just support themselves and cover the pipes. Can you not find the stud ..?? Other option is to cut a hole behind where the new sink/pedestal will be going and feed a noggin into the wall. Can be done, and surprisingly easy to do. Other option is to cut the wall from behind where it is being fitted and retrofit noggins that way.

yes they do - you’ll get a manhole number and the bottom corner of the map will show the invert level. That is the distance to the top of the pipe from a datum point.

Cut back is fine... You're more likely to get water through the side joints on the windows than the protected heads and lintels.

9m I would put a pier at both ends and then with 5 blocks in between piers - basically build it with any blocks and every 6 along and lay the piers on flat with the returns on the flat also. You could then just infill between the piers. Mediums would be fine too - heavies are a bit overkill.