PeterW

RHI used to be better for pellets from memory.

If I remember when I see him next, I’ll ask my mate where he got his from. It’s only a 500w but it’s got a 16mm chuck and he’s fitted a speed controller from eBay (cost about £6 iirc) and he can basically turn it all the way down to tapping speeds using the same belt size.

Not required. It’s a run from a plant with no solids. You ideally need a sample chamber and then a chamber at the far end before the stream to put a back flow valve in (more to stop animals etc) and you’re fine as you are. In the event this got blocked it would be due to root infiltration or collapse so tbh you would be digging it out anyway to repair.

28mm nuts need 35mm insulation https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/insulation-c555/climaflex-polyethylene-pipe-insulation-c556/climaflex-pipe-insulation-2m-lengths-same-as-tubolit-pipe-diameter-x-wall-thickness-x-length-p5251/s5261

Just go up a size on the insulation. 22mm is pretty good on 15mm compression, 28mm on 22mm fittings. Cut and bonded with decent 50mm insulation tape.

Agreed day rates for work below ground then everything else is price work. So it’s a price per 1000 bricks and price per block laid. I pay extra for lintels and soldier courses or other detail and do that by metre. Invoice for work up to Friday afternoon gets paid the following Monday, bank transfer only. Any weekend work goes on the following week.

100mm to the centre assuming you are using board on dot and dab which adds ~25mm to the blockwork.

Errr no it won’t. That’s an old flat faced nut and olive on the pipe currently and probably has a different thread to the new one. It is designed to push the olive into the taper on the fitting hence the shape of the olive. They won’t take well to a new shape olive. Unlikely given the age of that lot and the paint and scale on the pipe. By the time it is clean enough for Hep2O it will be pretty badly scored. @Olf I would buy an olive splitter or use a multi tool to remove the olives on the old pipe, clean it up and use a new compression tee. You can split olives with a hacksaw and a screwdriver - plenty of access there once the tee is out.

Subscribe to Stu Cromptons YouTube channel and 95% of your questions will be answered. Nice video here about garden walls.

Also depends on your location in the UK and proximity to decent trades. You’re in East Anglia, so you won’t be too affected by the development bubbles in areas like the North West and South East driving up labour prices, but may be restricted on the trades you can get - taking a “traditional” route of brick and block and widening the cavity to 175mm for better insulation levels; aiming for MVHR and semi passiv but doing the airtight detail yourself; using an attic truss but getting deeper rafters for lots of insulation; all things that wouldn’t be an issue for a set of traditional builders but would mean you get the upgraded fabric but without big additional costs.

No.... just NO..!! You use a very cheap slip membrane and tbh the “reaction” only happens when the cement is wet and there is no evidence of it causing any issues as it is only to protect the front of the boards. 500 gauge is the thickness of a rubble sack at best, and is not a DPM - they are quoting a slip membrane there to stop any of the liquid getting under the Celotex and lifting it. A DPM should be a minimum of 1200 gauge and preferably thicker. 50mm is very thin to have UFH in it. You may only have 30mm or so over the top of the pipes so it will react very quickly but won’t store much heat, and may be prone to cracking.

Yep I’ve got 9 and 12 here and it’s just price changes by the looks of it (and fixing the awful index...!!) so buying the latest would be good value if he’s brought it up to date. @Mrsrc what stage of plans are you at ..? Would be worth spending £200 on getting the whole lot costed by one of the online estimators and then you have a starting point for understanding what you’re asking for pricing for. It’s about £100 plus VAT and will give you a reasonable idea of what to expect. Just use it as a guide to start with, and you can search out the best pricing yourself if you have the time to do this. That is where you save the most money ..!! It is also worth understanding what materials come in what quantities - right the way up to what a “lorry load” looks like. I’ve seen people buy 20 bags limestone (MoT1) in bulk bags for £35 a bag, when a 16t tipper was £14/t or less than half the price. Same with blocks and bricks, if you have space then taking a full artic load of 22 packs can be cheaper than by the pack from the BM. Lots to consider but also there is lots of help here if you ask - everyone has been in the first build boat before !

Use standard board everywhere unless it’s in a wet/damp room and then use Moisture Resistant board (usually green). Your top skim for boards is 3mm of either board finish or multi finish plaster.

Just the pricing tables change. Let me check as I’ve got a couple of versions here, I’ll see what the differences are.

It is a must have ..! From the point you own the land ideally but your mortgage company may insist on a minimum level anyway. Things can (and do) go wrong and you need the proper cover in place.

Don’t forget if you get a brushed stainless sink you can just take a 120 grit flex sanding pad and some soapy water and any scratches can soon be made to “disappear”.

Think @Conor is using it.

Trickle vents get closed but you cannot do anything more as they are designed to leak - hence why you have to have them or have MVHR. Plugs in sinks are a good shout, extractor fans just get taped over from the outside.

@pocster which did you order as they all seem to have dimensions ..??

Measure from the top edge to the base of the bath and then the outer side and subtract ..? Will have 15-20mm of acrylic / board / GRP but should have space. How far have you got to go ..??

I would strip the skirting boards off and use a decent low expansion foam under the bottom edge of the plasterboard to fill the gap between floor and wall. I expect it is air coming down the back of the plasterboard (dot and dab ..?) as much as from below the floor so get that closed off. The S10 can take external air and isn’t expensive - £110 here https://www.thestovesite.co.uk/prod/Accessories/Morso-Outside-Air-Kit-1.htm

So around the £1100/sqm mark but you should have economies of scale with 3 on one site ..? Is that including all services and landscaping ..?

Yes why..?

From memory it is the same as the Flomasta one and you can get spares from S’Fix https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-magnetic-filter-seal-service-kit/3287V

Ahhh ok ..!! Makes sense ..! Sounds like your first stop is a decent SEng and then work from there