PeterW

Not so much of a PD/Planning issue but make sure you can actually get the pitch in that he is proposing. A 22.5 degree pitch roof will rise up 1.5m over half your span which is higher than a first floor window ledge when you consider a standard 2.4m internal wall height. Check this new pitch will not encroach on upstairs windows Also consider the light in the rooms behind - conservatory conversions are notorious for making the rooms behind dark. Have you allowed for a couple of roof lights or similar in the new roof...??

Seal the UFH off, drain the Willis heaters and drop the elements and see what they are like. Also try dropping a thermostat and just check the resistance and make sure it’s tripping in and out.

that needs doing as it could (will) freeze if you are not careful. What model of ASHP is it ..??

Overshoot may be because that is a mid position valve and not a full diverter valve. If the DHW is coming on at the same time as the heating it could be dumping 50c water into the manifold and there are no safety mechanisms on those setups. For the sake of a £50 TMV I cannot see why installers don’t fit them.

No blending valve - ASHP is straight into the manifold and there is a bypass on the end of the manifold rails. Does the ASHP have multiple temperature settings..? And can you get a picture of the black box valve and any model number off it ..??

Spray the wall with Thompson’s Water Seal or similar, but you need to get the soil and vegetation away from the wall as that will be causing more damage than the water as roots will break up the join between tarmac and the wall. I have a similar wall and we spray for weeds once a month from March - October.

Who’s telling you this ..? 2 working days from Condell https://www.condell-ltd.com/ig-lintel-l1-s-100-wil-2850mm I think your frame cramps would need to be at 300 centres and I’d check with the SEng as it’s a non-standard use case and by the time you have finished discussing it your lintel will be on site and installed.

Do you have it in writing that they said a way leave existed prior to signing up ..? If so they have misrepresented the contract if they now go back on it.

AliExpress is a Chinese site - they price in USD

Search AliExpress - you will soon find out where a lot of the “designer” lights come from example here https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32828926975.html

Sorry - misunderstood which way things were facing. if you have PP then unless it really is a Non Material amendment then you’re stuck with the existing locations.

Can you not move a few of those windows to the other elevations ..? Study would be getting evening sun if you put the window opposite the door ..? Kitchen window would get morning sunshine if you moved it to the other wall. The French doors next to the window in the kitchen look odd tbh.

Couple of runs of CAT6 and a run of 8 core 0.75mm control cable to wherever the hot water controls are

You can’t !! You cannot in English Law assign a right of access to a third party that you do not hold in law or deed. The existing property owner has right of access by usage, you cannot build 2 more properties then assign the rights from the first property as they do not have the legal historical use. That relates to his access to an existing property based upon unchallenged historical use. I have done this very recently with a new build and the only reason the indemnity policy was granted was the property in question used an existing access that had been used for 15+ years without challenge. What I could not do was split the land and create another access onto the road and then take out an indemnity insurance as the basic premise of right of access cannot be re-assigned. I would do that, but it requires building control approval (replacement drainage is notifiable) and BCO will check with the sewage provider that they are happy - so I would look at doing it all above board, get the easement in place and sleep easy. If it’s done properly then you could look to use it in future but that would be a discussion I would have now with the landowner.

You cannot get an insurance indemnity policy for something that you knew about ..! There is no insurer who would take on the risk, and it is one of the questions they ask when you take indemnity policies out. An easement - with a willing neighbour - will cost £3-400 and goes with the land and the deeds in perpetuity. A gentlemen’s agreement when £’000 is at stake is a significant risk, and the insurance policies would be similar cost if you tried to find one, probably more.

You can’t indemnify for an easement - you either have permission or you don’t. And you will need to ensure you have rights to dig it up to repair it if needed - if it was damaged then you can’t just dig up someone else’s land to repair it. Also, what is the right of way over the driveway ..? Is it a covenant or private RoW afforded to your property ..? The issue is that you cannot reassign that to another property as you do not own the access.

From that article linked, this is exactly how I do it as it’s quick and simple. You can cut a half lap joint with a circlular saw and a chisel in about 2 minutes. And the full bed doesn’t need to be thick - just enough to take the unevenness out of the blockwork.

Grey area in law as you can’t install a sewer connection without the permission of the sewerage provider, and you can’t install a new connection to a property without building regulations approval. However, both of these assume it is to a property... You would also need a legal easement for the driveway as without it your nice neighbour could sell up and new nasty neighbour could block your drains off and you have no legal standing. That could cost you £’000 in the future when they realise you’ve just made £’000 developing the plot ...

Please don’t drill the boiler - you will allow fumes to escape out of the pipes at the back. As @joe90 said, dry sand, leave the caps off or just loose when it’s full and it will go for years.

I think this is due to the IFH pipes being fairly deep in the slab and a 38c flow will settle out and the slab is probably coming up to surface temperature an hour or two after the pumps have gone off. Running 24x7 is unusual - and expensive - and I would look at load shifting across to E7 and doing the heating overnight and only boosting when necessary during the day. Bear in mind the UFH will lag a bit, I would start with lowering the flow to 32/33c and then running overnight with a 2 hour boost about 4pm.

@NewToAllOfThis why is it down to you to do this ..? Has the architect designed something that cannot be built ..?? Speak to the technical department at STS and ask them for the technical detail for the cladding receiver board in use with a timber frame building and PIR. They should have a standard detail or be able to tell you if it meets Part B.

Hang on ... I’ve just re-read this ( @Dave Jones think you have the wrong end of this too...) and you’re saying @harry_angel you have PP to remove two outbuildings and replace with a larger outbuilding to create a home office ..?? And this is not part of a larger PP scheme for a new build..? That is ancilliary to an existing dwelling so doesn’t count for any VAT reclaim - you will be paying the VAT regardless. The only way to zero rate this would be to put in full PP now for a new dwelling and then move into it - is that your plan ..?? Also, £125k + VAT build costs for a home office ..??! What are you building ..??! You can build a pretty good sized house for that.

That isn’t how VAT reclaims work. They will only reject the part relating to the garage if it isn’t part of the planning permission, not reject the whole claim and not allow you to correct it. What is £25k..?? The total cost of building the new building under PD when completed ..?? Not sure I’m following.

It will be on your local council website either under Planning or if you search Community Infrastructure Levy

Fireplaces look big until you realise stoves have to sit 100-250mm from the walls depending on the model. This can cause a few issues and you also need to factor in things such as distance to wooden beams with flue pipes if you use vitreous stove pipe - 450mm for a 150mm pipe is quite a distance.