PeterW

sorry not following you ..? If it’s the same / similar then try the key press to get into the service menu and see if cooling is there to start with. No need to change any settings. Do you have a cooling terminal on the main board itself ..?? If so it’s a NV dry contact I think that you just close to make and cooling will start. You would do this with another room stat set at say 25c or higher.

Heating on ..?? What is the room temperature ..??

Most councils have a section under planning permission on their website about how you discharge conditions. Are they the only 3..? Are there none to do with material finishes etc @LSB..?

Welcome @RogG Quick questions - is it a ground floor flat ..? And what is behind that wall behind the hot water unit ..??

keep an eye on eBay as they come up regularly.

Nothing wrong with short bits of 6” nails as fuses ......

If it’s this controller then it is fairly simple by the looks of it https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1273892/Panasonic-Wh-Sdc09h3e8.html?page=148

Watch out then that you get any LED bulbs that are properly dimmable with standard MK dimmers as some need a certain type of leading edge (??) dimmer.

Hope you have a working carbon monoxide alarm in the caravan ... playing with gas boilers - and especially the flue components - when you don’t know what you are doing is a recipe for serious issues. Even static vans are covered by Gas Safe for a reason.

Knightsbridge are pretty crap - terminals are awful and I used them in a garage and never again. As @Dan F said, you can go MK but not sure they have screwless dimmers

You can’t use twin wall inside a stack - you have to be able to inspect the joints and connectors. You can use 150mm corrugated liner for the BBQ but it’s really a bit pointless if you’re building a brick chimney anyway as you may as well do it once and do it with a concrete or pumice liner system. Side by side is dead easy to do, and just dropping the segments on as you go with the sealant will have it built in no time. No need for that bigger size either - just do both with 200mm Dunbrik and they will be good for the life of the house.

Don’t forget that for a DIP switch setting to be recognised the unit has to go through a full start up sequence from power off.

6-12 days ......????? To do what ..??! 6 yes at a push if he’s doing everything, 12 is just ridiculous ..!

Next one I’ve got on the cards is 225mm blown bead and currently talking to the installer about using them to fill a sloping roof structure that is boxed both sides with OSB... idea is that it’s a continuous bead “shell” but not quite sure if it will fly yet.

So using Room 1 thermo you need a normally closed call from the UFH to open on call for heat, or change SW2-1 to ON which will stop the heat pump on break of contact.

Howdens will quote you full list price directly - builder will then go and order it and get list less 30-60% depending on the range and guess who pockets the profit .... I have an account which gives me a reasonable discount but I suspect it is a bit far to ship from here ..!!!

You don’t get more pressure with increased diameter, it is an inverse proportion. What you may get is increase flow, which means you can run more high flow outlets at once for a given pressure. Using a 22mm “ring” doesn’t help and is poor design - also doesn’t help when you are balancing mains hot and cold outlets such as mixer taps and it’s much better to use dedicated circuits for toilets and outside taps so they don’t affect your shower flows.

Howdens do a tall cupboard at 300 wide and 400 wide, so not sure who is telling you what here...!! I’ve just priced up your utility using Dove Grey gloss with rigid cabinets and standard black granite effect worktop and it comes to £380 inc the VAT from Howdens so no idea who is doubling the price for you...

I take it that’s via your builder ..?? Howdens are currently doing a contract white or grey kitchen with more units than you need for £299 which is ideal for a utility. Ask him to get that priced up.

TF and masonry share a similar construction method when it comes to internal walls - stud work. The mass is in the external walls, all internal walls and floors / ceilings are the same so issues can and will occur. Which “TF” method are you referring to anyway..? There are loads ! And not all are inherently air tight, most of the new build properties around me have a TF inner frame and are barely hitting decent BRegs air test results. TF shrinks - which gives issues for outer skins that don’t such as brickwork and allowances have to be made. TF can dry and crack plaster finishes if it twists as it dries. Masonry can do the same but in different ways. It used to be said that insulation was better in TF as it was added when the building was watertight - masonry can be the same as you can use blown beads. The list goes on - for each “system” there are a list of pro’s and cons and it comes down to personal choice. But that moves you further and further away from self build to custom build. And the bills can still mount up. Have a look at the series following John Caldwell and his “million pound mansion” in Mayfair ... started with a £10m budget and spent £60m ....

Don’t get into a race to the bottom line...! Simple as that..! Cost / Time / Quality - pick 2... You want quick with quality then it will cost more. If you want quality then you need to spend time on site and set expectations. Talking to the trades - make them a brew, buy some bacon butties - will get you more information than shouting at them when they haven’t understood the detail in a 50 page plan set. Want to set performance criteria for trades using contracts ..? Then that will cost you twice, as you’ll need to write the spec and also expect trades to add a premium to their prices to cover potential issues. On your list I’m not sure where it has come from as some of your TF issues can be apparent in any build method such as sound transfer. Most modern masonry (brick and block) also has a lot of timber framing within it such as stud walls. In reality there is no perfect build system but if you actually invest your own time in the build then you will get a much better result.

EHPT30X is fitted with an FTC5. Are you sure that’s the model number as that’s a 2015 cylinder if that is the case ..?? The DIP switch settings on the main board control what the UFH call for heat will do - you need to use Room Stat 1, but you need to know what SW2 has been set to. Out of interest, where is the expansion vessel for the UVC itself and the main incoming cold supply ..??

Welcome ..! First question is why 32mm ..?? Normal connection is 25mm unless it is a very big house, and you have 15mm inside so not really getting the benefit of anything larger. Secondly, where is the water meter ..? Have your water supplier changed their end to MDPE..? They own up to the meter (or isolator if there is no meter) so you can only change what is after that. Ideally you need to have as few elbows as possibly and a tee would count as that - it may be better to replace the 15mm from the old stop tap downward with Hep2O and then try and get a long sweep of a bend through the floor and into the cellar. If you already have the 32mm then I would just use a 32mm to 1/2” male adapter (Pipestock) and then fit a Hep2O 15x1/2 onto this. You can put a tee with a drain cock in if you want to but I assume there is one just above the current stop cock under the stairs ..?

Which FTC or Ecodan have you got as that looks like one of the older connection units.

Where I could we used folded over cavity batt as we had a pack on site but didn’t bother with gables etc as the cement board closed them off. Got a few million beads blowing around the soffits too ...