PeterW

With the pipes open the boiler (which is usually a lot thinner metal) will not let the stove work to its full potential hence suggesting fill it full of sand. I wouldn’t be drilling holes in the boiler - if you do take it out then you need to block the holes in the back with some nuts and washers and also get another fire brick to fit. You can get these from eBay - just search for cut to size vermiculite bricks

So use an Calcium/Cement board behind the wood cladding, and then treat the cladding with ZeroFlame or similar. This is a pretty standard detail that is used on commercial buildings https://www.sts-uk.com/building-board-solutions/cladding-receiver PIR isn’t the issue here - sounds like the BCO is looking at the external build up and not seeing a 60 minute fire resistance prior to the insulation. Not sure about fees but my local area don’t charge for a second application. You will have paid both plan fees and inspection fees, so even if they charge you again it will only be the plan fees.

Over 30sqm it is any structure. Under 30sqm and more than 1 m from every boundary, or under 15sqm then you can build it with cardboard and soak it in diesel for all building control care ...

They are not going to be helpful. You’re not paying them to come up with solutions to meet problems, they are there to ensure that your design meets building regulations. What has your architect or designer said ..? PIR externally is an unusual detail - is this a timber frame building ..?

Have you done a search on the forum for waste treatment plants (rather than water treatment plant) as there is a huge amount of information on the forum. This is one post on treatment plants for example

That’s unusual, must be something seriously wrong with the application. You normally get the chance to resubmit the application with a new set of plans. What were the outstanding issues ..?

Inside is correct - make sure it’s 29.76sqm and more than 1m from every boundary ..... If BC is involved then yes, wiring is notifiable under Part P. You may find the supply to the shed is also notifiable or needs to be done by a part P registered electrician.

So that is over 30 square metres so the whole thing comes under building control approval - so fire, structure, wiring etc.

You have the valve wired permanently powered to the L/N so it doesn't matter what the timer does.

Yeh but that advice expired after 12 months...... ?

tank only needs 6" water in when cold - just bend the arm.

Have premium membranes been specced by your architect..? Both are the "expensive" end of the spectrum, and unless there is a good reason, any of the Cromar / Permo Ecovent etc would work just as well for half the price.

Unlikely unless you are very unlucky - most of the roofers I know use 75mm Paslode nails for battens as they are standing on the battens they like them to stay where they are put. I'd just use 63mm ring shanks and they will soon pull out when they come to do the rest of the roof

Welcome so you should never use a boiler stove with the boiler capped off as it could / will go off with a bang when the boiler ruptures... You can remove some boilers - guessing what those studs are for, I would say that could be removed but it would need replacing with a firebrick back so not exactly ideal. One other option if you never want to use the boiler again is remove all the pipes, and cap off the bottom two outlets and fill the boiler with kiln dried sand through the top ports. It will make it very heavy, and if it was ever reconnected the residual sand would probably destroy every pump and valve... Installing stoves is something that needs care, and should be undertaken by a competent person or notified to the council. Please have a read of this here... https://www.stovefitterswarehouse.co.uk/pages/beginners-guide

What size is it ..?

Fine circular disk on the multi tool

Street noise will pass through windows more than walls - whats the glazing in the room ...? I’d just double board with a standard 15mm board and I think you’ll be surprised how quiet it becomes.

Yep they have screw type adjusters on the plate mechanism

£200 buys you enough Sark-IT non breather membrane and slate battens to put them on at 2ft intervals. Will be fine through the winter, and they can then rip it off when they do the roof proper.

It contains only 2-5 litres of water. The point of an LLH is to allow different flow levels through different parts of the system, not to act as a buffer store to stop short cycling. Oil boilers don’t modulate down enough to not short cycle at low heat demands. Your boiler is running at 65c pump speed 3, UFH needs 40c pump speed 2, therefore you need somewhere to balance that off hence the buffer. For an efficient burn on that boiler, and getting you mains pressure hot water, a TS would be my plan as it allows you over time to change out the components and add in whatever you need for heating. You can even blend at the TS itself and negate the need for a manifold blending unit, and your single pipe would still just go in and out of the TS as normal.

Yes but he suggested it as you’re not ripping everything out in one go and keeping the rads etc so it makes sense while there are a lot of mixed parts to the system.

Any more bits with that manifold as it’s missing an isolator from the top row. And yes that could be used, old pump may be a bit noisy but you could replace that when you finally finish the rest of the circuits.

Low loss header may struggle with an oil boiler as they don’t really modulate well. No way you could change the current hot water cylinder for a thermal store ..? Would then work as mains hot water and a buffer tank.

Sewage pumps are somewhere where cheap isn’t best, and you need to size them correctly to allow for power outages, blocked pumps etc. Twin rail pumps in large tanks, failure alarms, all sorts of considerations are needed before you go this way. The main consideration should be “do you need one”. You need to have a proper invert survey done, and get the invert levels of the sewer and any intermediate ICs/Manholes between your start point which you can assume as 600mm below target finished floor level, and the road. A 1:80 drop will mean you need to have a road invert of more than 1.25m, assuming there is a flat site. This would allow a standard connection which is much more preferable than a pump. Also bear in mind you cannot pump into a mains sewer so any connection would need an intermediate chamber and a road connection or if the sewage provider allows it, connection into the current house system. This is also a building regulations requirement and is one of the first things they usually ask for, the drainage plan.

Ok so.. Why 8 loops..? Seems excessive 1. no - it just allows the manifold to pull what it needs from the heating 2. Yes but whos pipe did you use ..? 3. Yes but the manifold will have its own pump/blending set 4. Yes but depends on the manifold manufacturer as some sell blanking plugs, others you will be quicker putting the euro cones on with stubs of pipe and cap those 5. No, so that needs to come off the main heating circuit 6. Guess.. but it’s only temporary isn’t it..?