PeterW

Ok - I bow to your expert opinion and deprecate my own, I apologise but stand by my point that this is surveyor and installer error. That’s bollocks. The surveyor and installer have installed a system not fit for purpose if the rads are incorrectly sized. So now you admit you knew they were wrong and there is a compromise - pointless me and @MJNewton continuing here as the kitchen and bathroom will never be hot if the rads are wrong. (Ergo, this is a system not fit for purpose to quote @joe90) We disagree on cause because you do not understand heating systems, and I and others do. And you’re not prepared to accept this, which I refer to my first point. Vaillant kit may make a noise they are trying to fix, but to give you a little analogy, with their kit and the undersized rads you are trying to break the land speed record in a fart powered go-cart. It doesn’t matter how much heat the system kicks out, if the rads are undersized then they will never heat the rooms. The reason it’s coming on overnight is because to heat the house with the rads that are too small, it needs to run for longer. That is basic laws of physics and thermodynamics which I am very sure you will also disagree with. The big issue - as usual - is we have been trying to fix a problem with half the information. And now it comes to light that kitchen and bathroom are not correctly sized, and you knew this from the installation ..??!! Would have been helpful to know, as I’m sure we could have just focused on getting your one bedroom rad to the correct heat because the rest is utterly pointless. I wish you luck fixing the unfixable. @MJNewton if you carry on with this I’ll speak to the palace and see if I can get that knighthood conferred to a Peerage...

When there are going to be issues with red bleeding I tend to recommend these HV30 Aladdin Self Bleeding Automatic Radiator Valve 1/2" BSP Single Valve https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019395RHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_jFQcGbVSGWHJH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

+1 for inflatable tyres, also look to see if you can get one where the axle supports are reinforced and not just a bit of bent flat bar.

Hmm... so despite us telling you it’s not installed correctly, and you defending the system and installers, you now admit it’s not installed correctly. The fact they didn’t insulate the pipes (a requirement of the Building Regulations it was installed under) says that it’s not correctly installed. @MJNewton you deserve a knighthood for your patience here ..!! @zoothorn , now assuming you no longer think I’m an idiot for my advice (although I think by rejoining I may be one) there are 4 copper pipes at the bottom of the internal unit. When the heating is running, the right pair will get warm, when hot water is running, the left pair will get warm. Connect a pair of thermostats to the right pair, click the heating on and wait 10 minutes and then read the values off. If the one you have doesn’t look like the bottom of this, then take a photo of it, and post it here. Just a picture of the pipes coming out, no essay, just a picture....

Isn’t that one of the things I posted and I’d do them top bottom so you get airflow ...

How about one of these with slots cut in the top and bottom edges to allow air to flow ..? Isn’t the transformer in the back box behind that octagonal plate ..?

Yeh I saw that today. Is MicroPython easier than programming an Arduino ..?

Every third row and top two/bottom two from memory. Every one on the last two at the verges.

Burton Roofing have 3.35mm on their stock and nothing thicker so I would use those. No idea why they want 3.75mm as that is a very odd size ..! Are you nailing every tile ..?

CT1 won’t compress unless you’re an 18 stone Jessie and you are standing on the rim of the pan ..

Just before you do ... Insert a 2mm packer under the bottom edge of the pan - wrap it in cling film if possible and CT1 all round. Then pull the packer out when it’s all dry on Monday. This means you don’t squash all the CT1 out and also means if the pan connectors do leak you will get a tell tale line down the wall rather than it disappearing behind tiles etc.

It will move as it is pivoting on the wall at the bottom of the pan. Take it all off and bed on either the Geberit gasket if it was supplied with one or a good bead of sealant and then do it up and leave it. This also stops any point loads from the pan and cracking any tiles. Don’t do it up any tighter than hand tight or you will crack the porcelain.

If you have a big budget then buy a Hwam...

So if you’re talking about a warranty then you may be too late to get one for the build as you have to get inspections on all elements including the foundations. If you need a warranty for mortgage reasons you may have to buy one retrospectively which will probably cost more.

That’s nearly 500sqm, so not small by any stretch of the imagination ..! Your heat losses could be quite high. Have you got any EPC or SAP for the house ..?

How big is the house ..?

Can you measure the inside and outside diameter of that concrete liner as it looks quite small in the picture. Also need to smoke test the flue before you do anything - check it’s not blocked or leaking.

Sorry @Chriswills I missed the responses. If you put the “@“ in front of the name you can tag someone I’m wondering if there is a curve setting on the heat pump as it seems to indicate there is. It may work better than manually changing the set point as it’s doing something odd with those numbers.

Welcome back ! Hope all is well - nice to see you building again..!

Not sure if MKM have made it as far south as you but they are good. TP are ok but can sometimes be laughable on single items the day after you’ve bought 14 packs of blocks ... Wickes is a good shout - they do delivery too.

4" Fence post laid flat with a 12mm hole through it and a 6ft length of scaff pole Put the bar through the hole to where you want the bend, one person stands on the post, other slides the scaff over and lifts it up Remove and repeat

in order : 1. None of a tiny amount if sealed correctly. 2. Yes If they have been done correctly but I suggest these haven’t. 3. No no no no no, absolutely not !!! That void must be full of vermiculite as should the remainder of the flue to insulate the liner. 4. Possibly with the heat of the liner but it really should have been sat on a full liner of vermiculite so should have nowhere to go. I am not sure that setup as it stands meets the Hetas or BRegs but could be wrong. It should have a top hat type setup but I would not expect it to be diverting any water of volume as the liner should be hung off a pot liner and they have a proper shroud to go over the top of the pot. I think water is getting in via those other pots, and you will need to somehow create a secondary void which is fully sealed. If it was me, that lot would come down and a new stack built with a single compartment for the flue that is properly insulated and a lead tray below the pot to catch any leakage, then a full lead tray further down for the “fake pots” that is open. This would mean the flue can be correctly installed and the void cannot retain water.

Not necessarily - if you look back this isn't a full 4 pot stack and 3 are sealed dummies. One is a vent but can't allow water in as it isn't that sort of flue. There is already a lead tray in place but it looks like its not installed correctly and there are no weep vents or they are blocked. Brick vents in this sort of chimney are not recommended as this should be a sealed void which it clearly isn't..!

Glad you have found the issue. The flaunch is porous and will let water through, it is why there has to be a continuous lead tray with adequate weep vents and it sounds like the tray does not have this. Also worth checking the lead tray is continuous. I’ve seen them made of multiple sheets with a bit of leadmate between the lap joints and that is a guaranteed leak spot. You have to use a single sheet for the tray - expensive but worth it unless you can find someone who can lead weld and put the correct upstands in for each cavity. Also, you say the tray to flue joint is leaking ..?? What joint is this, and what flue or flue liner are they using ..?? Photo would be helpful.

save your money. No point putting any more than BRegs level insulation in if you are having open fireplaces as the air test will be off the scale (I doubt it will actually depressurise the house enough to register) and you’ll need to add solar or something else to get a SAP Score to pass I expect. Open fires are a relic from the 18th century and should stay there. There are some beautiful new stoves that you could have and they would be both efficient and air tight.