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  1. @Ian I know this is going back a while but presume still no issue with the doors and Osmo Poly-x?
  2. Just getting around to this so would be interested in any updated prices...
  3. @matthyde83 Rather than using a 300mm thick piece do it in layers (100/100/100). You can brick bond it so you overlap the joints and it's a lot easier to cut at that thickness!
  4. @Iceverge Looks like you can use staples in EPS from that thread and long ones would definitely be better! I've got a piece of 150mm EPS that I'll stick a couple of 60mm staples in and see how they hold although reading through the other thread with a gun looks like you're okay - I didn't have one. For the cost I think I would. You only need a vapour barrier which you lap can lap up the walls rather than a DPM as that's been put in lower down. So, EPS ---> DPM ---> EPS (or PIR) ---> vapour barrier ---> UFH pipes stapled then pour the concrete.
  5. @pilgrim This is exactly what I've done. Pm me if you want to have a chat.
  6. EPS is fine to use below DPM whereas PIR isn't due to water ingress. PIR will give a better u-value for equal thickness but if you have the depth/space, EPS usually gives better bang for buck. There is also research to suggest that PIR degrades much more than EPS over time. With regard to the slab build up, a number of people here (not me) have done away with the reinforced slab and screed scenario and simply used a single reinforced slab. The slab can also contain UFH pipes. Build up would be, from bottom up - with DPM inserted either below or between insulation: hardcore insulation slab. If you search the forums it will throw up some debate on this build up. HTH!
  7. As @Nickfromwales suggested, if you put a 25mm EPS sheet down first and then your DPM on top you instantly reduce the likelyhood of getting holes in it. Then do what you like with PIR or EPS. If you're installing UFH, the pipe clips struggle in EPS so having an EPS build up with a 25mm - 50mm PIR on top aswell really does help (alot)! We've got 325mm (300mm EPS100 & 25mm PIR) and then a Cemex Cemfloor @ nominal 45mm which is great. With hindsight I would have gone with 50mm PIR for the reason above as 25mm is okay for the clips but a bit thicker would have been easier.
  8. Thanks @vala Did you use this for NTC probes or for 'standard liquid filled thermostats' as linked to above?
  9. I read a while back about using thermal paste on pocket thermostats but it doesn't seem to get a mention from those that sell them: https://www.rwc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Dual-Single-Stats.pdf https://www.esicontrols.co.uk/assets/esctdeb-installation-instructions-web.pdf Is it the case that these don't require thermal paste? What about the use of NTC probes in dry pockets? Tia
  10. @vala @RHayes Just coming back to this thread and apologies for the delay as I've been away. I have successfully managed to wire up a DIN relay in the two stats configuration that we previously discussed. I have tested the system using two switches and a light bulb. The switches representing the two tank stats and the bulb represents the "call for heat" from the boiler. If you want to see the circuit working pm me and I'll send you a video clip. The wiring is pretty simple and I'll put a diagram up later if anyone is interested. The relay that I have used is a Heschen ct1-25, they can be found from various online sellers for around £8.50. I'm not promoting this one in particular and there are of course other brands available. I have also bought a small DIN rail enclosure (~£11) to house it in. Hth.
  11. @SteamyTea Thanks. I meant is there a simplistic way to work out how long it takes for the UFH to reduce the temperature of the water in the tank by drawing off (hot) water from the tank? Appreciate there are a number of variables!
  12. @SteamyTea Is there a way to work out how long the tank will take to cool when in use? I'd like to work out (approx.) how long different sized buffer tanks would take to cool when used in conjunction with UFH. Thanks
  13. @vala Apologies, I missed your question about the relay previously. Yes, it's like an RCBO/RCD/MCB. There are a few companies who make them. One I've found is called Geya and another Eltako. The relay "clips" on to a standard DIN rail. So if you do a search for din rail enclosure it'll throw a few up. Hth On reflection, having read through the thoughts of those on this thread (Thank you!), I think I'm going to go with the simpler Elitech set up. This seems to be a simpler solution. It means: there will be less frequent bolier cycles (which are controllable) allows the buffer to be configured with a single thermostat configurable, generous wide dead band for ON/OFF temps. Cheaper, wider range of tank options
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