OldSpot

Which Harvey unit is it? The ones I have seen (mainly S3/HV3) don't have that rotor with left & right on and have a slightly different layout on the top. I'm considering buying a Harvey so would also be interested in what the numbers in the boxes below "Service"; "Regen"; "Resin"; & "BV" mean if anyone can help.

I bought a sink from Vieffetrade and they sell all manner of things. They're based in Italy but buying from them was quite a bit cheaper than in the UK - even when shipping was included. I was sligghtly concerned but the comms from them were really good and it arrived after a couple of weeks. It was well packaged on a crated pallet and was sent via air freight to us.

Or Mapei 3240 seems to reasonably easy to source too.

Thanks Nick, I reckon it's 8 or so sqms, part of which is >5mm. Noting your previous comments on 2 part SLC, I can source Arditex NA or Mapei Latexplan locally so I wondered about using that? According to Ardex you can use Arditex NA to fill in Ditra prior to tiling, although I've got Durabase CI++. Thoughts? KRgds.

@Nickfromwales Sorry to resurrect this thread but I've run up against a similar probem where Durabase CI++ is already down. It's a concrete screed with wet UFH embedded. If I understand you correctly Nick - to level the floor - you work out levels, mix up the adhesive and then trowel/straight edge it level to the high point(s)? After that, do you need to leave this layer of adhesive to dry and then just going ahead with the tiling as normal or is there anything else to do first to the adhesive layer? In the first paragraph where you then say "apply the SL, mixed" that's just to cover the UTH wires so wouldn't apply in my case? Also, can anyone clarify why you shouldn't use SL over Durabase CI++? Many thanks for any help! Ps They're stone 900 x 600 so putting them down and then taking them up again isn't simple!

Cheers all.

@Ian I know this is going back a while but presume still no issue with the doors and Osmo Poly-x?

Just getting around to this so would be interested in any updated prices...

Or here.... Boom, Boom!

@matthyde83 Rather than using a 300mm thick piece do it in layers (100/100/100). You can brick bond it so you overlap the joints and it's a lot easier to cut at that thickness!

@Iceverge Looks like you can use staples in EPS from that thread and long ones would definitely be better! I've got a piece of 150mm EPS that I'll stick a couple of 60mm staples in and see how they hold although reading through the other thread with a gun looks like you're okay - I didn't have one. For the cost I think I would. You only need a vapour barrier which you lap can lap up the walls rather than a DPM as that's been put in lower down. So, EPS ---> DPM ---> EPS (or PIR) ---> vapour barrier ---> UFH pipes stapled then pour the concrete.

@pilgrim This is exactly what I've done. Pm me if you want to have a chat.

EPS is fine to use below DPM whereas PIR isn't due to water ingress. PIR will give a better u-value for equal thickness but if you have the depth/space, EPS usually gives better bang for buck. There is also research to suggest that PIR degrades much more than EPS over time. With regard to the slab build up, a number of people here (not me) have done away with the reinforced slab and screed scenario and simply used a single reinforced slab. The slab can also contain UFH pipes. Build up would be, from bottom up - with DPM inserted either below or between insulation: hardcore insulation slab. If you search the forums it will throw up some debate on this build up. HTH!

As @Nickfromwales suggested, if you put a 25mm EPS sheet down first and then your DPM on top you instantly reduce the likelyhood of getting holes in it. Then do what you like with PIR or EPS. If you're installing UFH, the pipe clips struggle in EPS so having an EPS build up with a 25mm - 50mm PIR on top aswell really does help (alot)! We've got 325mm (300mm EPS100 & 25mm PIR) and then a Cemex Cemfloor @ nominal 45mm which is great. With hindsight I would have gone with 50mm PIR for the reason above as 25mm is okay for the clips but a bit thicker would have been easier.

Thanks @vala Did you use this for NTC probes or for 'standard liquid filled thermostats' as linked to above?