PeterW

If you’re doing this once then just use a cheap pair of kitchen scissors after scoring with a sharp Stanley knife. Spending some money on the other tools will be better - you can pick up old hardwood priests and bobbins on the flea markets for not a lot of money. This sort of stuff comes up on eBay a lot too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Large-job-lot-of-vintage-lead-working-plumbers-tools-/154387956735?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Ahhh the lovely “flachten turden inspektion platten”

So this depends on what the architect asked the engineer to do. One of them should have done the design, but I would expect it’s a pair of steels and on padstones. You can calculate those quite simply but expect they are 415x215x100 Naylors.

Telford. Contact Trevor at Cylinders2Go, mention the forum and ask for a Telford Heat pump cylinder. Then spec it with high and low immersions (mine have two) and all the pipework where you want it. If you’re going ASHP go for 400 or 500 litre if you can as the cost difference is negligible.

What are your pre-commencement conditions ..?? BC won’t talk to planning in my experience. Less so if you use private BC..!! If you have received your CIL confirmation then issue the commencement, wait a week then crack on with stuff that isn’t linked to the conditions.

may struggle to match the white porcelain. With a cabinet you could go for a colour or white, and it doesn’t have to be perfect.

Rectify that will need the tile removed and you could crack others.

What are the dimensions of the basin ..?

UFH - Wunda will do all this for you for 1/3rd of the price of the “specialists” for a better product.

Does your porcelain vendor sell a half height furniture unit that would fit under there and cover up that horrendous pipework ..??

Who installed the heat pump ..? It sounds like the installer needs to come back and check this as it’s not connected correctly. I would start by powering up the FTC and the heat pump independently disconnected and see what you get.

Ok so by compromised what do you mean ..?? What is the width and length of the staircase now as that is limited by building regulations for communal buildings.

I don’t see how you’re making this cost comparison ..?? Decent Viessman with all the toys is just over £1500 and then needs install etc so add £1000. Rads aren’t expensive but install of pipe work, TRVs etc you’re adding say £1500 to do a decent job with quality kit. So £4k all in. You now have to service the boiler annually (£100 or so) rads will need painting and replacing at some point, and you have an ongoing rise in energy costs which you can’t offset. Flip side is UFH on 2 floors (not really necessary but for comparison) would be £700 for materials, couple of towel rails is £200, UVC (which could go in the attic) is £850. UFH is probably £1200 to install and zero maintenance thereafter. UVC is £400, annual check should be £50. So that’s £3350 all in. If you can follow a plan then you can even self install UFH - saves you money. Now look at heat source for that and you have choices. Small ASHP would be £3500, install another £800. Potential to offset this using the carbon grants and you’re now looking cheaper than your gas boiler. Also you can self consume, with summer months PV straight into the hot water tank as you’re not getting any FIT worth talking about.

Is it the primary entrance ..? And the regs you want to point at are Part M of the building regulations relating to disabled access.

How close is close ..?? And what type of tree ..? You could use something like Hy-Tex barrier to create a root protection area and then extend the stone downward slight to strengthen the edges but you’d need an engineer to sign it off. It’s a raft so the the strength is there, it’s just if the tree roots would affect the area.

Diggers are classed as plant not tools - they get covered differently. Also look at microdot security pens and systems - make it unsaleable to anyone else

Agree and putting a simple tracker such as one of the £20 GPS ones from Amazon is not a bad idea - they can go anywhere in the wiring under the plastic and work fine.

Mine was really good until it got caught on a rose thorn ..!! When under pressure the liner is very thin and very prone to puncture and you can’t repair them.

I think you missed a con on exposed valves - look crap ..!! Even chrome pipe work looks bad.

Roca are nice units. That has a top flush and you can put some nice flush plates on those.

So these can take a standard 110mm waste pipe which you can cap off and then run a 38mm pipe or similar into them. That needs to be as short as possible but also your input pipe needs a fall on it, especially if it has just a WC feeding it. You’ll need to come up out of the macerator by a foot or so then get a decent slope to the next one. Not sure if this will work in reality and these things are noisy - one is bad enough, a pair running ...??? Have you not had the sensible conversation and said the “No” word to Mrs Pocster or is that something that is banned in the dungeon ..??

+1 to this ..! Which is the point I was making. Grey water saniflo are just a pump and a float switch in a box. WC waste is known as black water and contains solids. Different type of pump.

Ok ignore that - thought you wanted to do an A-B pump route

Don’t think a grey water pump will accept black waste - you will need a pair of macerators and block the WC connection to add the feed from blender No.1 in to this ...

Movement joints are only required where differential movement is expected between structures such as extensions on existing buildings or where substantially different materials are used such as steel and blockwork. Brick and block have such similar linear expansion coefficient that from -10°C to 30°C it’s not really relevant. The only time it makes a difference is with very dark materials against very light such as dark grey renders.