PeterW

Ok so you’ve just added another point load without giving any context ..!! 11x5m pool, 1m deep and we now have another 60+ tonnes of concrete and water not evenly spread on to a concrete stress member. And a floor suspended from the wall around the edges too..?? That changes the dynamic of the edge of the slab again. So ... I think your SEng is working from a set of plans, and we are working from a set of guesses ..!! Where does the car lift and the 10,000 litre water tank fit in all this so we can have all the picture...?? I agree ..! At this point I wouldn’t be cutting corners on what will be a £1.5m build.

Ok so they are floor joists and will be the lateral restraint. You’re looking at ceiling binders, what is holding the top of that right hand wall and stopping it being pushed away from the main building ..??

Steel portal frame I expect.

PIR is insulation - Kingspan / Celotex branded if you’re searching for it. 12mm OSB will be fine if well supported and only the inner layer goes under the tiles then covered with GRP so this is fine as it will be less than 25mm thick (tile batten thickness)

Ok so I would be asking a structural engineer and BCO to comment and confirm what is needed as currently I think you’re missing some important elements.

Remove the two Allen bolts and the handle comes off. Re-fix the handle - doesn’t the cover have a hole in the size of the round handle cross section and the cover rotates ..?

Ok so that starts to explain the structural design and the choices of the engineer. And as it will be his insurance on the line, you can see why he’s choosing the steel he is.

I would build a new gutter in OSB, line with 25mm PIR then another layer of OSB, and then GRP. Lap it up under the tiles until at least the first tile batten

Isn't this being built on sand ..? Or at least a loose substrate ..? If so, not surprised at the spec, but that is all going to need to be bent offsite as H25 is bloody hard ..!! I’m assuming he is expecting you to use a shuttering system for this ..?

It’s only suitable for precision blocks that are not really used in the U.K. (think very accurate aircrete blocks), isn’t rated for “safety situations” and is only B2 rated so is not fire proof. Also it was designed for installing insulation panels, so load bearing properties will be interesting. This is from the MSDS SOUDABOND EASY GUN must not be used for components requiring approval, e.g. supporting walls and walls relevant for safety!

Your loadings aren’t consistent though and you’ll get rotation about a point, which by the nature of the design is somewhere left of centre so is an issue. Also, what lateral restraint has the SEng specified as you should also be using cranked straps I expect to hold this all the the f left wall. These are acting as ceiling binders by the looks of it.

No you can buy wall mount cisterns - you’re confusing them with wall mount pans.

no it’s sales bull$h!t..!!! Toto are known for their hotel spec porcelain and their washlet/washlet+ brand, neither of which are available widely in the U.K. as they are predominantly a Japanese brand. Market leader in £3k automated toilets..? Yep... market leader in bathroom porcelain worldwide ..?? Not a chance ..! Tece frames are very clever in that they will mount into their own Tece Profil wall system to allow you to build and plumb a whole bathroom quite easily with hidden fixing and panels but it is eye watering stuff to buy, and not available in the U.K. as an official import. And Tece is red, Geberit is blue.. that’s about the sum total of the difference in the frames. He’s talking wall mount cisterns here not the frame ones. The wall mounted cisterns allow you to alter the length of the flush pipe but it is just a push fit over the cistern spigot and not restrained in any way until you fit the brackets and it’s not just a push fit into the pan . It requires some careful measuring and cutting, and also that you don’t dislodge the two O-rings on the spigot. A good plumber wouldn’t have an issue with this, a monkey with a hacksaw on a day rate for a developer may do ...

Doesn’t really matter. As long as it ties together then it’s fine. If you’re using a flow screed though, add another slip membrane above the insulation to stop the screed flowing down between the insulation sheets.

Ok this is a really bad design as you have a pair of 90 degree bends with no access for rodding or clearing in the event of an issue. What you are trying to achieve is challenging as you need to watch for changes in direction and to be honest unless you have a decent fall on the run to the sewer you are creating problems down the line. Is there any way you can bring the soil stack back from the corner of the basement for its entire height ..? You would need around 550mm back into the room. Has building control not queried this yet ..?

What do you think is missing as both his text and drawing show a 100mm concrete layer ..? Yours doesn’t ..?

Nope - a 500 litre UVC will take a bit longer to get to to 50°C with an 8kW ASHP flat out, but it’s the difference between 2.35 hours and 1.45 hours to get from 18-50°C. An extra hour, CoP of 3 so overnight on E7 that’s an extra 25p or so to heat the tank for peace of mind ..? A 500 will come with 2 immersions too, and you can spec a pair of thermostat pockets so you only heat the top if you want to when the house isn’t full. Other option is a pair of 250 litre UVCs side by side and only heat the secondary when you need the capacity. Either way it’s your spec and your choice. It will work, assuming you have doors wide enough to get a 500 litre UVC through, but I don’t know why suppliers are saying no.

Because there isn’t one. Each situation suits a better solution - so you have to take all the parts and come up with the correct roofing system for what you’re doing.

3 head weed burners are a really good tool to clear driveways but they need a full size bottle so you need a trolley.

so your truss will rotate about the fixed point. The wall plate on the right is static (red triangle) the weight of the truss will try and push downward but rotate around its axis so there is a pull force exerted on the fixings of the bottom chord and it will try and push itself past the wall plate. Crude arrows below ..!!

Flatting off is only one part though. Then set the surface and polish it up - that’s the bit that takes skill.

Ignore the NHBC. They say a lot of things that go against the MIs and in the end it will be a question of whether you’ve followed the MIs rather than a trade body if things go wrong. I would be using a strongly restrained fixing in your case as there is more of a rotational pull on those mountings as the truss will try and pivot on the wall plate and the top mounting.

Yeh - it went in the skip

Friends contacted Tuin and they sent replacement ones out by courier. Also found last thing at night they put temporary ratchet straps on the corner joints and middle of the long sections and pulled it all down tight and it made a difference to how the logs went together the next day.

Mitsubishi ... but also fitted a Blauberg one and that was very neat. Also depends on how you define “best”...