PeterW

And also bear in mind that the cutter keeps spinning long after power is removed ...! This will cut into anything you put near it long after the button is released, including the workpiece, the floor or your flesh...

Oil every day of the week .. even consider an Aga if it hasn’t got one to do core background heat. Why have you gone for limecrete in the floor..? As you’re removing the whole floor, as a thermal element you’ll need to meet minimum building regulations values so just go for decent insulation and concrete and be done with it.

You don’t need expansion joints on an internal wall that size. On the external expansion joints what you need to understand your render panels and their maximum length - you normally split them around windows or changes in profile at around 6m or so ( @nod is that correct ..??)

What is the wall construction ..? Outside to inside ..?? Expansion and movement joints are different things - what is your maximum single span wall length ..??

Yep it would be a separate zone.

Ok so for the sake of an actuator (£15) and a cheap thermostat (£10) you get control that means you don’t overshoot the temperature or dump large quantities of heat into a building that you want at a lower target temperature.

Just on the garage you need to ensure it has its own controls and is isolated from the system in the house as otherwise you’ll need to insulate the walls and potentially the door too.

Yes - every single member of this forum with a passive slab and UFH. He’s worrying about nothing. If he thinks UFH pipe is this delicate, ask him how many installs he has done as I think you may find it’s “not many”

EPDM is glued on not mechanically fixed...?? You need the OSB - even if it’s only 9mm - to provide a solid surface to bond to.

Really ..?? May want to consider your choice of plumber as thermal cycling of concrete won’t crack it “just because it has stone in it”... There are very many people on here that will have issues if he’s correct ...

Are you measuring areas on plan ..? You need to measure the actual area of sloping roof, then subtract the flat area

How are you stopping the cold bridging ..?

Ok so this sounds like you need to put in place insurance to meet your mortgage providers requirements (and assuming you have told them you’re ripping apart their asset..!) and also to manage the risk based on structural work and works in progress as the new build completes. Try GSI Southern as a broker - they are easy to talk to and will find you a range of products.

Charged up front as it is a material unless you hire a pump company to place it for you and they contract the concrete supply as part of the service. If your builder provides it as part of the build package then he should zero rate it as part of his invoices to you.

Can get a low flush unit with a top mounted flush that you put into the worktop. Looks nicer to me for the lower units as you don’t block the plate

Never seen slate inside a liner - pot is normally larger than the liner and you flaunch the inside too.

Nope no issues with that other than one of having the potential for cables not being able to go downward due to rad fixings etc.

Sorry you’re not allowed to use that statement. It’s been copyrighted by @Onoff for all his projects .....

First question - do you have a mortgage..?? That will affect the insurances required. Secondly, are you living in it while you refurbish ..?? That can also affect the products available.

I wouldn’t want to trust something chopped in half - it will be as strong as the screws holding it together. Howdens do a set for £110 or so, you’ll get half that back flogging them when you finish

Looks fine. Get the hardcore in and get it whacked down.

it gets addictive ..!! Quickest way is to use a 600mm Kitchen base unit on its side - nice and robust and has a smooth surface to start with ...

1/2” or 1/4”..? If you can get the 12 pack even better at that price

Buy the 6 pack of Trend ones. Should be about £20 or so

So that’s fine - not sure why he thinks it needs lining...