PeterW

Unless he can show the chimney is too large to draw then he has no chance - even then it is down to chimney height usually. What diameter liners have you got installed ..??

WHY..??!! You have a decent pumice liner - why fit something else to it ..?? Stainless liners are for retrofit only in old houses and are not required for a new build where a Class 1 liner has been installed. That is from Hetas..!! If your stove installer doesn’t believe you, print this out and give him a copy - page 7 will help... https://www.hetas.co.uk/wp-content/mediauploads/BFCMA-Installation-Guidelines-10-12-12.pdf Installer is a con artist wanting £300 for a liner you don’t need ..!

get the stainless ones... zinc coated will rust over time.

The flow rate would be lower - these things trigger based on the amount in the tank. And the MIs are pretty clear ...!

A WC macerator can only be 600mm or so from the pan itself ...

So the CO can go talk to the BCO and get them to sign it off ..! Conservation officers are so far up themselves it is frighning ..!! It’s the only position that allows an unelected official to use their opinion .....! Everyone else has to use facts ...

They are crap and stuff ends up in them. Have seen birds nest on them and sweeps push them out so a secured cowl is much better.

How have you calculated that ..?? Assuming the pot is open..?? You need to fit a cowl to stop birds nesting and also keep crap out of the pot - they reduce the rain exposure unless it’s lashing sideways to probably a teaspoon. https://www.fluesystems.com/shop/Colt_High_Top_Birdguard_SF.html#SID=14 Shop around and you can get a Colt High Top for about £25. To make it neater, turn the stainless straps in on themselves and trap the ends with the band. Much easier to do when the scaffold is still up ..!

Think ours didn’t have a chute it just dropped into a 300 cabinet that had a bin in it ..! Less to clean that way ..!

How close is gas to the house ..?? You can always put a buffer tank in and the smallest gas boiler you can find to stop short cycling but you’ll need to manage the heat loads carefully. If you have any sort of atrium that could take an air to air heat pump then that will be your best bet for cooling.

Yes.

Welcome...! So that won’t pass muster now with building regulations (and you will need them) so you’ll need to properly insulate to modern standard along with meeting the structural requirements of the regs too. With zinc roof etc, I would be budgeting £1700-2000/sqm all in - you will not be getting much change from that I expect.

We had one very similar in an IKEA oak worksurface around 20 years ago after seeing similar in a friends custom built kitchen..! Was about 8” in diameter and worked pretty well although it suffered the exact same problem they all do ... no-one emptied the bin when it was full..!! Think from memory we didn’t have too many problems with smells or anything like that - doing it again I would want some sort of chute as it was just free fall into a round bin insert.

Airflow. Your average MVHR unit moves 300cuM/h on boost. The Bora on boost does that on its own. Blowing that into the MVHR will overwhelm the fan unit and you’ll just push air into the bathrooms etc as it will hit the plenums and the MVHR won’t be able to cope. Notwithstanding the grease issue, it’s just a really crap idea to try and blow air into a common extract system.

So the silos can be premixed and when it’s blown in the cement can separate from the sand as it’s smaller so you can find the cement drops to the bottom and comes out first. They are supposed to mix it and check the cement content but that never happens.

Yes but don’t cut to the edges..! Only cut to about an inch from the pot. What are you supporting the tray with ..??

Doesn’t need to be. It needs to be enough to catch water running down the inside of the pot and divert it to the weeps. The biggest thing is making sure you put a proper base for the lead to sit on otherwise it puddles down the sides and eventually leaks.

No it doesn’t ..! And you definitely don’t want Oxy unless you want to create puddles of lead..! These used be done with paraffin torches - all you are looking to do is anneal/soften the lead so you can bend it into the pot.

seriously they aren’t difficult. Just needs to be knocked up the inside of the pot - 90 degrees is ideal but even 45 catches the water running down the pot and kicks it out the pot.

They use silo not tub mix. Very different products. Yep below ground could be done using a mixer. Wastage can be managed. Company we use will deliver 3 or 4 empty tubs and we used to order a couple on a Monday and same Wednesday, could sometimes get away with a single and they had no issues with that. Mix consistency and colour was perfect, and wrapped with a plastic bag (how they keep the tubs clean) it lasted 3 days.

That just got a single flue coming up the middle of it ..? Could do it with 1200mm Code 4 but a 3m roll weighs 87kg or so... would want to make a former for it using 3x2 and some OSB but you could drop the dressed edges on it in an hour. Don’t need to weld the corners, tuck them back and will look ok from the ground. Need the isokern location spot on, find the centre of the circle, scribe the pot diameter then cut an inch inside the line. Gentle heat from a blow torch and warm it and dress it up to the line - flat piece of 25mm ply with the flange size you need helps here and dress it up the inside of the ply. Any reason it has to be done tomorrow ..?? And how are you supporting the lead as it will sag and potentially pool water if there is nothing solid for it to sit on.

Why..?? What is the chimney section ..?? As in how square is it ..??

Pretty sure there will be a soaker or the membrane turned up the wall. Not the best detail (that lead is too long in one piece too) but at least it’s there. The lounge flashing should also come round that corner but doesn’t. Again, this is poor detailing and will leak eventually. Also @tmcb1234 Can you measure the length of the boiler flue in the garage and how far apart the supports are ..??

Are you running multiple water systems then to bathrooms ..?? Yes you’ll increase salt costs but at the reduction of expensive cleaning products..! Rimless bowls are supposed to be better as they “don’t harbour germs” but tbh they are all as easy to clean now anyway. Also with rimless you have to watch the flush pressure as you can get spill over on some bowls and will have to somehow restrict the flush - not easy with a built in cistern !!

dryfix foam.