Onoff

That's what I'm doing isn't it, linking the st/st towel rad to the UFH manifold.

Imo @Ferdinand's option 3, the custom bi-fold does it for me: + adding the vertical member matches the ground floor door. Yes you lose a bit of light (live with it or move the door entirely ) + once open you'll lose some of door across the width of the wall and it won't impede so much into the width of the balcony. - would you end up with a bit of a triangular trip hazard sticking out?

I think you need to think out of the box: Just hope your laminate flooring is better than Klemen's!

The Rotex dust extraction does appear to be superior to all the other makes.

My missus "saved" two laurels from a skip. (She did ask and it was from friends). We planted them down the front and both took. When I did the big front gate we moved them. Again they didn't mind and took. I now realise we should have moved them even further for better drive access. Pretty confident they'll take again, hardy beggars!

Akin to a sliding van door this is.

+1 I followed Jeremy's advice on this and used Soudal low expansion foam. It works simple as. I did on occasion put a board weighted with bricks to hold bits curing

I think you'll find they are in fact your energy supplier as in electric / gas. The DNO is the company that maintains all the energy transmission lines, over head / underground cables up to your meter. Best way I can think to put it... If you look at the National Grid link I posted and go to the map you should be able to pinpoint who your DNO is.

Check what DNO you come under on the map: http://www2.nationalgrid.com/UK/Our-company/Electricity/Distribution-Network-Operator-Companies/ There'll be getting a diversion of suppply details on whoever's website you fall under. https://www.ssepd.co.uk/Sse_Components/Views/Layouts/PageBuilder/MultiRowGridNoBase.aspx?pageid=10932 & https://www.spenergynetworks.co.uk/pages/moving_your_exisiting_supply_service_alteration.aspx (Btw I think your lot insist on RED ducting).

@oranjeboom, ref your question in the other thread: 25mm EPS in my case is to stop any sharp bits of the levelled, home made "Type 2" puncturing my DPM even though it's blinded with levelled sharp sand. Done after taking various advice on here. So to recap I went: - Compacted "Type 2" direct to the clay - Sharp sand blind - 25mm EPS - DPM - 150mm PIR (100+50 overlapped at joints) - Polypipe panels with Pex-Al-Pex UFH (this doubles to protect the PIR foil from the concrete) - A142 mesh 100mm wet concrete (levelled with screeding rails on opposing walls). Next time I wouldn't forget to add the fibres to the concrete! The jury's out on the Polypipe panels. Makes it a doddle to run the UFH pipes and then some but it's not 100mm thick all over because of the 'castellations'. I'd also likely lay the 50mm PIR first then the 100mm as the 50 is quite springy.

Won't just be one foot that needs adjusting imo. You lift one corner and the diagonal to it will stay there but the other two and centre one will all lift up. Nick will be along shortly!

Well worth a read here, scroll down for all the manufacturers. I remember I'm sure, something a while back when Bosch took over the factory in Spain and that on their lower end stuff it now says "Made in EU" rather than "Made in Germany". http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/about-the-appliance-industry/manufacturer-information/

I put an 40-50mm EPS upstand around the edge. Thicker in some places as the room was about 3"off square and there was an old doorway to bridge etc. It wasn't straightforward as there were footings I'd squared off to go around. I would hold the upstand in place and square with a board and a few blocks then use low expansion gun foam to hold in place. My DPM went over the 25mm EPS on the floor. 150mm PIR onto the DPM, spray glued where it comes up against the EPS upstand. Then expansion strip on a roll that was like corrugated cardboard with an EPS backing. It has sort of a pre fold in it and it sticks down to the foil. There's another self adhesive strip on top if you have a membrane between foil and screed/concrete.

I like the way you've curved that frame for the PV panels!

I've been using that Evebuild Triple Action Wood Treatment. About £20/5L in Toolstation but cheaper online.

Syncs with the National Physics Lab's "atomic clock" time signal I think.

Leyandii - bane of my life. Hate the things. Comprise the bordering hedge with my neighbour and to the South to boot. Horrible shadow casting things!

Looks like an old Tonka Toy ad!

The few on here who have sloping sites that need a lot of terracing etc.....is it I wonder worth laying geothermal pipe then just covering it over if your changing the landscape that much?

Would a generic Android box work as a "better" browser?

Looking at that Ramsay one I'd say you could raise the trap door panel up to roughly the top of the joists and put a BFO slab of insulation underneath it. As for sealing, I'd look at rebates and draught seals on the battens the trap closes against.

He's going to come along and say nope, super strong, 22mm thick former (with built-in falls), 22mm boards.

Just for you I might have a count up of the stashed empties tomorrow. It'll be handy to be able to get in the shed again and free up some space.

I go where the wind takes me mate!

Knowing my niece guessing the cheapest but I'll ask