Onoff

So I'm after de-rusting a few bits and pieces and decided to knock up an electrolysis tank from, as ever, scrap! A 20L oil drum, one of those which had the lid semi bonded on, BFO screwdriver soon sorted that. A sheet of some obscure plastic, quite soft to the point you can centre mark with a ball point: A quick compass: Some scribing: And some jigsawing and drilling: Some scrap M10 black bolts that I'll never used for anything else: And we have the start of a big anode that should allow 360o working around the piece to be de-rusted: Some random scrap T&E: The stripped cable clamped to the bolts. Do it tight enough and the wire pushes into the plastic. A couple of hex extenders and studs. I'll add a timber cross piece to suspend the rusty item from, probably on a chain so I can adjust the height: A broken bucket for safety. should keep some of the rain off and not contain the gas coming off: I'll try and finish it off, add the washing soda and fire it up later. Yes, I know most just use a big bit of plate as the anode or old brake discs (just skipped 4 ) but their's aren't pretty! (Was thinking to make it look like a little garden well complete with roof and winch...)

I ate horse in Greece. That was barbecued. When I asked the taverna owner what it was he said "Is meat!" and made a galloping motion.

It'd be bloody useful for Tesco home deliveries too! Good access shouldn't be underestimated. The van can barely reverse up our drive then the 15 or so crates need to be trollied / manhandled to our kitchen door at the back of the house. It's across the unmade drive, up one step to the patio, up a step and over a door threshhold then over another threshhold and down a step into the kitchen. Going to be a pig when I'm in a wheelchair!

That was YOU! Saw the link on the GBF.

I've got to ask...what happens when you're too old and decrepit to use the spiral stairs? Does the lift get fitted?

I'm thinking more to construct the whole shed as a hollow, two skinned construction then fill with foam. I reckon it could be done.

I've always thought you could space OSB at 100, 150, 200mm or whatever with long studs and nuts. Then just fill the gap with "pu" foam - the kit sort that comes in the propane like sized cans and is usually used for between rafters. It'd sort of self inflate with the wet foam sticking to the inside face of the OSB. When cured, remove the studs and foam fill the holes.

Pre made SIPs or make your own? There's a few YouTube vids and bits on the GBF of people experimenting gluing unfoiled PIR / EPS to OSB. A bit I read about on GBF using "DM Easy" I read was interesting. From this place: http://www.creffields.co.uk

I started chucking steel around as a kid fitting crane / gantry rails and the only manual handling advice I think was "bend your knees". Tbh it was almost a point of pride to be lifting the heavy stuff. All our RSJs came in "6m" lengths, generally up to 203x102x23 was the biggest we'd fit. It stemmed from 10'/3m fixing centres. A beam would bolt down to two "holding down units" then overhang one by 450mm and be short the other end by the same. (We'd tee joint the bottom flanges and sometimes fish plate). If we were lucky the crane would drop them off around the site / roof. If not we would have to "distribute" them by hand. The last big job I did was 254x146x37kg UB. We had the sense to design this in 3m lengths but still well over a 100kg a pop. Used a barrow on that where we could.

From age 16 at work I would regularly carry two 25kg (56lb) test weights often over quite some distance. I'm now 50, and probably only in the last two years have I learnt NOT TO! Now I just carry one at a time and use a trolley whenever I can. I've slipped my disc badly twice and spent a fortune in the chiropractor. HEED THE WARNINGS! Or don't and when it feels like someone's running a Stanley up the back of your calf, you have "leakage" issues downstairs, you actually cry when you sneeze and can't crap for a week because the signals aren't getting through.....don't come running to me! (Happened to a "mate" of mine... )

PM me the Kent supplier details if you will please. Thanks.

Some ideas here, I Googled "sip garden room": https://sipsecopanels.co.uk/uses/sips-garden-rooms/

I just Googled "Samsung ashp cooling".

Those external rodding points look like a good idea.

Page 41 here about cooling on Samsung unit...I think: https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.jouleuk.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/Samsung-Air-Source-Heat-Pump-Gen-5-EHS-MIM-Unit-User-Guide.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjx4PKdhJLUAhXkC8AKHTCtDToQFggcMAA&usg=AFQjCNGQz7po7-fmyF09yqHA2eWPzGmgSw

Resin fixed st/st studs would be good.

March 14th!

He was! Can I just add it's very important to have a partner with the same goals and vision of "what could be". I would like to batten down the hatches cash wise now and spend it on the house, starting with the roof, then EWI. This rather than splurging on non essentials. Ain't gonna happen! It'll get to the stage when I'm old, decrepit and unable to physically do stuff that we'll have to sell I'm sure as aside from anything else heating bills will cripple us. Turned 50 the other week so going through the whole life's rushing by thing at the mo! Didn't somebody here say the other week that insulation is a one off cost but heating bills go on forever?

FFS don't buy a wreck and sink a fortune into it trying to make it something it'll never be! Some realise this too late

That's no different the is it to say my current set up with an old hot water cylinder in the loft? If I want DHW "on tap" I have to keep the water hot in the cylinder.

Nope, straight off the roll. No eyelets in it or anything. Though they will do that. Need to sort this. I put a 1st layer of sand felt over dubious quality second hand 18mm ply and well...the felt ripped and I left it . So I'll have to stump up for some OSB too: Using underneath as a shed at the mo too.

Hmm...getting cheaper. 3m wide 2 ply lorry curtain, dark green, £17/m. £85 then for cash. It would I suppose go straight on, no adhesive to buy...

Rough & ready CAD sketch, this is what you're looking at dimension wise. Up slope goes from 2000 to 2134mm and ridge height increases by 301mm: EDIT: Not sure if these are double roman or not but only 210: https://www.gumtree.com/p/roofing-ventilation/second-hand-marley-roof-tiles/1238249683 EDIT 2: Pretty sure the glaze influences the allowed slope. "Shiny" surface tiles can go lower as water sheds easier and moss finds it harder to get a hold, rough glaze tiles need a higher pitch. Certainly the case for my tiles when I enquired about some replacements there were two glazes available. (I just took one down to B A Miles in Sutton at Hone). These are mine on the SW slope, about 30 years old (actually are these double roman?). I managed to get a copy of the original plans (bad microfiche copy) from the council from when it was re-roofed and it says Redland 49 but I don't think they are?

Tbh if you've a marked line and things are real tight then there's always the multi tool. Oh, don't forget to deburr the cut pipes. Bit of sandpaper / gloves / "DON'T FLUSH" sign in the WC above! Tbh "DON'T USE" might be be better as No1s and 2s might displace water down the stack without flushing. G'teed thd wife/kids will want to use it when you do the job.

Me being me but I often use a pipe clip to draw a straight line to cut around: Also found the S'fix plastic mitre block is a perfect fit around 110mm pipe. Bahco saw from S'fix: http://www.screwfix.com/p/bahco-prizecut-hard-point-toolbox-saw-14/44210 FFS don't cut a sh!tty pipe then yourself with the saw!