Onoff

Got it. Single coil on this. So..... I come out of the top of the original tank and into the bottom of the new one with a length of well insulated 22mm. Would i need a pump? I could take off DHW then from either? I assume I'd need an expansion pipe from the second tank?

Do you mean a Crabtree C50 type breaker or another make's Type C 50A? My whole board is C50s. Do they ever trip?

I like @PeterW's idea as it gives capacity. I should have added that I've already gotten hold of a 2nd hand copper cylinder that tbh doesn't look that old where the people changed to a combi. Edit: But it's indirect...

Nope. Haven't even got main drainage!

Tbh the hot in the kitchen is used for washing hands and the odd really greasy job that can't go in the dishwasher. The majority "requirement" is at the other end of the house; basins, bath & showers. Third is opposite end to where the cylinder is.

Hypothetically then with two cylinders & two cylinder stats I'd maybe need two valves so the boiler only feeds whatever tank is depleted heat wise.

Current (lacking) hot water capacity is an issue too which made me think of two tanks.

BEFORE everyone starts shouting UVC/TS..... Is there ever a case whereby TWO hot water cylinders are fitted in a property? Thinking on the cheap and my own situation. A big, long house with the oil boiler at ground floor and the copper hot water cylinder directly above in the loft. Kitchen is immediately adjacent to the boiler at ground. Hot to the kitchen taps is pretty instant having so little distance to travel. Hot to the other end of the house where the d'stairs cloak, new downstairs bathroom and upstairs en suite is takes forever to get there with the taps running cold for ages. What I could do with is ANOTHER cylinder the other end of the house. All I'd need is to insulate the hell out of the boiler feed to the remote cylinder. The existing 25gal cold water storage tank above the dormer roof is too small but couldn't I "double the head" by installing ANOTHER 25 gallon cold water storage tank the other end. In effect I'd be mirroring what I've already got. Traditional, simple and CHEAP!

I see TP do Supreme Chimney Caps: https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Supreme-Chimney-Cap-530-x-880-Cap-33/p/752763 Whether you'd get one to match what looks like a rectangular stack you have.....

I meant if you capped it off completely. You know, asphyxiation / death etc..... Edit: Dynamat...You don't like cars per chance?

Do you need to tape and fill moisture resistant (green) plasterboard if tiling over? For that matter do you need to fill the screw holes?

Nah! One bloke on here's taken that on one room and he still can't get shot of her!

I squeezed this Pex-Al-Pex one back "round" with an appropriate sized armoured cleat. Tested fine thereafter. @Nickfromwales allayed my fears a bit saying he'd seen wheelbarrows upended on them without detriment:

The link in my last post before yours is amazing. Damn great collector heating water in Pex. Conveys back to the house in ducting in an (8" deep) trench to a home made TS tank. Trying to get my head around these Zero Pass Collectors they all seem to be raving about for space heating. No pipes or cans just spaced mesh / gauze!

Thinking BIG! http://www.n3fjp.com/solar/BigProject/BigProject.htm

Ngafc!

I've had a look at @TerryE 's stuff thought he went with x2 Sunamps? Or haven't I read far enough?

Surely just follow where the cat's looking? Or strap a laser pointer to it's head! (Mods, can we have an "I'll get my coat!" emoticon please?)

A local sheet metal fabrication / ducting place? Edit: I hope you took some measurements whilst up there?

@Roger440 ,looking at your avatar with the cars and that.....surely you know some tin knockers who could whistle up a pyramidal cowl? You could fibreglass in situ over a bit of timber screwed to the bricks.....

Something wrong with that chimney imo. I reckon the original pots have been removed long ago leaving the big hole. They would often have steel plates on to support the pot (s), even some slate then muck piled on to keep the pots in place. Of course if you do stick a tin lid on the noise of the rain plinking off it will keep you awake all night! Lead atop a bit of timber would be fine. But getting a piece of lead that size won't be cheap. You could lap narrower pieces together. If it was me I'd bend a bit of Zintec sheet up (looks like that in the picture) or paint the hell out of a bit of untreated 1mm mild steel from your local motor factors. You could put 2" Rockwool atop the timber / under the steel to damp down the noise. Tin bashing with basic tools ain't hard: Just affix well to the bricks! And FFS don't use the stove! You could buy this and set into another piece of plate: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/112374350291?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275&_mwBanner=1

Interesting that the No Nonsense solvent free adhesive appears to be made by "No Nonsense". Love that the emergency telephone number is "office hours only". Where I'm going with this is that all the No Nonsense FOAMS seem to be made by Soudal according to the Material Safety Data Sheets! Makes me wonder why I keep buying Soudal? (Maybe because Soudal's number is 24/7! )

1/2" BSP nearest I've got. With one of these: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/BSP-NPT-Adapters-Male-BSPT-to-Female-NPT-Exten-in-Brass-European-to-American-/121411882514?var=&hash=item1c44b64e12%3Am%3Amadw2aTuT3ZCop4kFBQmWeA&_trkparms=pageci%3A60c2cf79-284a-11e7-b054-74dbd180f678%7Cparentrq%3A9bdc4b4315b0abd99d17ff0effff4e04%7Ciid%3A11&varId=420348982949 ?

You need to see the world through rose tinted spectacles!