Onoff

Might be of interest: http://www.1stassociated.co.uk/articles/french-drains2.asp

You need to dry fit things before solvent gets anywhere near the joint and mark joining pieces with a score mark or Sharpie if it won't rub off! Then clean all joints with IPA ideally. Then you apply solvent just turn and align the marks. (Thanks to all who told me this a couple of months ago!

French drain?

Got an "in" to a place that repairs commercial trailers from an old workmate. They do 1 or 2 ply curtain siding and it comes 2.5m wide. Just waiting for a cash price for 5m of it.

That's a really silly idea...believe me I've thought of it! Getting the annealing right to flatten them out is a bitch though. Too much heat and they just crinkle up:

The ideal would be lorry side curtain but a piece of that is coming out about £100. My mate did give me a complete curtain years back but it's been chopped up over the years to make various covers. Used a bit in fact to put the spoil on when I dug a hole for the spiral stairs:

Erm...my "years" are a bit different to others!

Decided to re-roof the tree house to get maybe another year out of it before it makes way for a cabin / garden room. I need a "piece of felt" 5m x 2.2m. Thinking that lorry siding type stuff advertised as an alternative to traditional felt. Don't really want to spend circa £100 + adhesive etc on EPDM. Any suggestions? Cheers

Not that I'm self building but..... - Should have done better at school - So I could have paid someone else to do it all

Out of interest can you extract water from a brook on your land for domestic use like gardens, WC, (washing machine?) use or do you first need a licence of some sort?

Hear, hear! Madness to have someone else guesstimating AND pay them for it if you can do it yourself.

Here's the body dryer: Two elements, above the ceiling and below: Air is drawn in through the circular intake, it passes over the 4.5 / 9kW heating element and vents downwards via the rectangular exhaust with has a fancy baffle to "swirl" the warm air curtain in a sort of vortex:

Cheers all. Those 15mm flat panel ones; I'd be cutting out from below so there's no way I wouldn't accidentally puncture the VCL. Then even they have heatsinks on I think don't they? I don't fancy that against the VCL. One compounding factor that might actually assist is that I'm running all the new cables in galv tube back to the cu. (Rat/squirrel paranoia). Large, galv, upturned adaptable boxes might be the way to go for the lights (even if flat panel) as nice and square to then VCL over the top and tape to the stuff above the plasterboard. A nice mechanically protected pocket then!

They don't per se give clearance dimensions: Important: Loft insulation that occupies the space required for the dryer should be removed or rolled back. The unit must be installed on flat surfaces both above and below the ceiling otherwise difficulty may be encountered when fitting the ceiling cowling and subsequent operation of the unit may be impaired. E B D Perforated line B A E B C B Key Fig. Fig. a. Air intake. B. bolt hole for solid ceiling. C. Communications cable hole. D. Water drainage. E. Exhaust nozzle. C note: To install the body Dryer to a concrete ceiling with an additional suspended ceiling or a bathroom with a timber flat roof construction you will need to use an optional fitting kit (not supplied). Contact Triton Customer Service for further details. Once installed, care should be taken to ensure the immediate area around the body dryer unit within the loft space remains a clear of of obstructions and that other items are not placed against the unit or in close proximity

Same here. Can't remember the kind soul on here who even sent me a spare sensor:

Photo heavy, but please bear with me! I gutted the bathroom as many know (and are possibly trying to forget! ). This meant digging up the concrete floor down to a depth of nearly 18". The ceiling joists doubled as a flat roof originally so were about 6" higher one end. These I ditched, built up the wall level in shuttered concrete and put new joists in. The roof space above is one of the uninsulated hip ends used just for a bit of storage. The joists btw are 145mm deep. I then insulated between the joists with 100mm of PIR: The intent is to add another 50mm of PIR. Here it is "finished" with foil tape over the joists too: The five openings you can see are for 4 spots (over wc, basin, shower and bath). The BFO cut out is for a ceiling mounted body dryer. I then put up a continuous, VCL against the foil face and moisture resistant plasterboards over the top: Of course, above I've 5 uninsulated "pockets". Been putting the lights / dryer off over the issue of puncturing my lovely draught free VCL! Now thinking of lighting on the back of that flat panel thread the other day I just had it originally in my head to fit Aurora downlights that have always been my go to. I've done them for myself and elsewhere and simply fitted a fire hood under the fluffy, roll type insulation. I'll openly admit where I've come across PIR between joists before I've just cut a chunk out fitted a hood. Never given it much thought...until now. But this is my house now and I've a better understanding thanks to here that that creates an obvious cold spot. Is it a goer albeit a long winded one to: - Cut the membrane in the pockets above the plasterboard. Lap the membrane up the sides of the PIR. - Line the sides of the 5 pockets with fire resistant plasterboard. Tape, extra VCL etc. - Cap the pocket off with a sheet of fire resistant plasterboard. - Continue the VCL over the top of the plasterboard - Lay 6" slabs of PIR above this extending say 6" all around the edge of the pocket. The VCL will be as continuous as I can get it. The 6" insulation will be staggered for want of a better word. I'll then have in effect 6" deep pockets for the downlighters and body dryer. Cable/conduit entries into the pockets will be siliconed. The body dryer basically just takes in cold air from the room, runs it over an element and pumps back out into the room. It's the only way I can think of keeping the VCL continuous and maintaining the insulation depth. Cheers

Aren't these I Lumos fittings the same make as @jamiehamy's switches that his sparks wouldn't fit/warrant over concerns about CE marking etc covered in another thread?

Never again will I feel guilty when the slightly built teenage girl at the Electricfix counter offers to take the bundle of 3m copper/conduit etc out to my car! I mean I've got to carry my tea and doughnut

The one with the broken pc...

I've only been in one house built to as I understand Passivhaus standards and the attention to detail was quite clear. That was I'm sure down to the meticulous nature of the self builder who's own house it was having done his research. Lets face it he'd have achieved that without having to pay for what some might term a stealth tax on self building. As said here the mass builders get away with I guess inaccurate assessments. Lets face it if the government was really actually interested in low carbon developments they wouldn't have dropped the FITS rates. Still, it creates a few jobs and gets a few quid in the coffers I guess. There's no way there aren't people jumping on the bandwagon with this. Just look at the rogue PV installer & cavity wall installer stories.

So enlighten me please! After the build do you go around with a thermal imaging camera and check for leaks? Or is it that you specify the design and the assumption is that they build to this? What I'm trying to get at is are all the boxes ticked based on what should happen on the build as opposed to what does? Really not meaning to be offensive.

It's the "light engine oil" that's been in them would slightly bother me. To wash that out might take some doing with a decent detergent and then where do you put it? Maybe ask if they'll clean them for a few quid more? I cleaned out all my 20L plastic oil containers I made totes from recently by first tipping out what I could then cutting the access opening. I then left them in the strong sun, tilted at an angle. Then when the bulk of the oil had run into a corner I poured that out into a one saved just for that purpose. Then gave it a scrub with a good slug of Fairy and rinsed out. All the oil in mine though was biodegradable hydraulic oil. Christ knows how you'd go about it with a 1000L, metal framed tank!

If you don't have any luck there's this lot...in Maidenhead: https://www.yell.com/biz/drums-and-tanks-ltd-maidenhead-1848374/

Until then he'll have to "contain" himself...

Trap door more like, "Nag, nag, SPLASH!"