Simplysimon

https://www.auto-roll.com/fitting-instructions think i'll phone the company tomorrow

ok more gibberish!

@JSHarris pic of box and front cover of instructions and wiring diagrams. wiring diagrams and instructions as previous pics. 'the very rough info' is all that came with the switch

hi folks, shed came with roller doors and the one at my end is electrical. the switch is pictured with the instructions, wiring as in photos. question is, how do i wire it? i would like to wire it so i plug it into the genny until elec is installed. if possible, simple instructions please.

when two surfaces meet, it can be difficult to hide the join. putting the join in shadow disguises it. can be achieved by putting join at the top of a groove or rebate or underneath an overhanging bead. emphasise the join by making a feature of it hides it.

as long as they're collated i wouldn't care

well ..........there's the one on the left

either a pitched roof parallel to existing, does leave a valley which is no big deal other than collects leaf and moss and needs cleaning out. my preferable option would be a pitched roof across both new parts at 90deg to existing roof. edit. post above posted at same time. dormer could cause problem

i think this is the reason you didn't have problems, modern houses do need to be relatively airtight and are relying on trickle vents for ventilation as well as the gaps in vcl various trades make and don't bother fixing.

the thing is, it needs to be one extreme or the other either super insulated and airtight with mvhr or poorly insulated and draughty. unfortunately you cannot do the latter due to building regs. anywhere in the middle is going to lead to condensation and damp problems in the future, and i fear it is going to be a big problem when it surfaces

welome, very nice. pic. 2 looks like a slightly drier version of where we are currently

that's quite an ask, i hadn't even thought to make my own doors to passive spec. even the keyhole on a passive door doesn't go all the way through to avoid draughts so mortice lock needs to be thought out. don't know how many joiners would have the experience of a passive spec door.

they took the designs, if it ain't broke don't change it, it's also cheaper if you don't

elu still the best sorry @nickfromwales, makita doesn't do it . the old elu will still sell for £250 or more for a good clean example. the elu range was the best and proven as dewalt just copied all the designs , routers, radial arm, biscuit jointer.......the only poor point on the 177 was the positive position switch, can be switched on then plugged in with the obvious results. however, as stated it is an old design.

hi @bissoejosh, have you looked at the touchwood page? http://www.touchwoodhomes.co.uk/index.php/foundation-systems you don't say whether strip or slab. i'm working with a strip and an i beam on its side

@jamiehamy, when you look at some of the houses which get built, in places where they shouldn't, by people you know have managed to circumvent planning by whatever means, i think @Russell griffiths may have the best option

sorry @Hecateh, there is a picture of a drive in their page which shows exotic cars on it.

there's a reason they show exotica on the drive, any idea?

ask for plasterboard to be removed to check, cavity barrier a fire check, presuming other 10 items fixed? you're paying, if you have doubts get it checked now, what else is not being done to spec?

costs will obviously have an impact between the three, with one being the most expensive though faster build and three the reverse. i'm going with option three but with jji wall build as per touchwood and @IanR .

in a wood burner running a lot of air, it burns with a good heat . horrible stuff, very difficult to scribe internal corners for skirting, unless you do the bodge and internally mitre filling needs to be done with a filler specifically for mdf. if you are using bearing hinges, try to borrow a hinge jig and router them. if you decide to use timber you could buy larger and wait for them to move and stabilise then surface/thickness to straight and size

how does that work when strange people put the toilet and bath in the bedroom behind a 1200ish high wall?

16 & 24

students and lost pencils, my answer is usually, 'keep it behind your ear, or as you have sufficient space, keep it between your ears'

hi @thedreamer, concrete should be about £100 a cube unless it's on a mix on site lorry and then up to £120 a cube, how deep do you need to dig to get to suitable clay? we had to go down to 1.2m cheers