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Simplysimon

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Everything posted by Simplysimon

  1. small estate of passive houses built with woodburners https://www.dormontestate.com/dormont-park/design-and-construction/ incidentally visited the ccg manufacturing site last week, very interesting, however, i was disappointed to see the low level of insulation they were constructing their kits to. the very good point is that 10% of the workforce are apprentices. edit ccg info.
  2. afraid to say if i saw that, i'd run away as well hope you get it sorted soon
  3. recently speaking to a knowledgeable source on passive houses, he has seen a small, 2kw, stove work well, in passive with mvhr. needs ext air supply
  4. don't ask questions you may not like the answer to then!
  5. if it is dry rot a few more days won't make any difference
  6. it ain't woodworm, they can't suck it that dry! is there any mycelium ( long white stands) or rusty dust? it does look like dry rot, what condition is the floor in? any bounce in the floor if the boards are running parallel to that wall?
  7. ripping the paper off the ceiling could/probably bring plaster down. if you're careful and it starts to come down cut through it prior to the cornice to save that. skirting, if cuboidal cracking, then probably dry rot
  8. it's from then70's, you expected something else
  9. 6x2 on flat across joists and 2-3 4x2's cut and hammered to vertical. you could start with an acro prop in middle of sag prior to placing vertical members
  10. understand what you mean, appliance 600mm, unit 600mm overall and door shuts on the carcase edge, therefore inside opening less than 600mm, as you state door doesn't cover gap. i think you have two options, order an appliance sized door 627mm, probably don't do them! or butcher a unit. appliance will possibly be 590mm so you could rip side to a width which includes fixing for hinges and fix to side of adjoining unit, may need to push appliances right back, attach rip to opposite unit. this should give illusion of a solid carcase behind door.
  11. would it not be possible to replace the solid timber with jji's and pump the cavity with cellulose?
  12. that's why i reckon it may have been lifted level, if thats the case the bottom chord doesn't touch at all! best case it was packed level. definitely not right!!
  13. +1
  14. i got a quote from robbens and enquired about filters in the vents (pets) and was told this would upset the system and the units had filters so was also unnecessary
  15. put the airtight envelope outside, run services between studs and oak, saves on membrane and tape
  16. @PeterW and as stated previously, look to the top of the trimmer above your red circle, it's short there too, either that or it's a trick of the lens
  17. going by the wolf site an opening is specced as below ok it's a stair opening, but it's still an opening and the trimmer is a good bit bigger
  18. @readiescards do you still have drawings with the spec for the floor?
  19. this is the beauty of torched on felt, burn it straight onto the board and it can only leak where punctured
  20. kitchen sink and bathroom afaik, you can buy a fair wreck with a mortgage.
  21. hi @Matt i can't understand why you want an oak frame and then go with a jji wall, the jji wall is sufficient on its own and you save on the oak. just increase wall thickness to 350mm for a u value of 0.1w/m2, this is the way i'm going
  22. we're going with 350mm jji wall, internal 50mm service void 50mm external void, with cladding on both it's a similar size wall. blown cellulose insulation giving a u value of 0.1. admittedly with a large amount of insulation it will be heavy, however, not as heavy as solid block and better u values.
  23. switching between the two pictures, the first looks as though the lhs of the trimmer is lower than the top of the joist, equally spaced, though in the second it is flush, may just be a trick of the light, either that or it's been moved up which would mean that the lower chord woudn't be resting on it.
  24. i'd advise against packing to chimney, there should be a 50mm gap around it, hence the trimming. yes, from picture showing uneven clearance under door. @readiescards, presuming joists are as detailed from architect? fitted as per spec by fitter? do you have drawings showing detail for fitting which specifies trimmer. floor bouncing so not ideal, not a solution to the problem which could be quite difficult to do as partitions up, doors hung. don't suppose you fancy a couple of decorative columns and a beam below?
  25. hi all, had a couple of quotes and the airflow is coming in at 1/3 the price of the zehnder, haven't heard of airflow. there is no mention on here so just wondering whether anyone had any experience
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