Simplysimon

i'd question as to whether they are legal, the bottom tread is not equal to the rest simon

@Cpd nice clean saw on fleabay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEWALT-SAW-KING-DW3151-TABLE-SAW-RIP-CROSSCUT-/192115254941?hash=item2cbaf6269d:g:ux4AAOSwTuJYtFyh don't know where you are though simon

hi @Cpd i'd totally agree with elu or early dewalt, i've had an old elu tgs173 for years, recently bought a dewalt dw3151 site saw and yesterday, a dewalt dw 1251 radial arm at auction. also picked up a dw 1150 surfacer thicknesser at the same time as the site saw. dewalt used to be good, after they bought elu and used all their designs but more recent stuff has not got the life expectancy unless you buy the professional range and even then... the dw 27400 is an option though not as good as the 3151 mainly the fence clamp. i recommend http://www.ptctools.co.uk/content.php/page/spare parts i've bought bits and pieces from them to bring the machines up to scratch, and i've no connection to them other than this, the benefit of elu/dewalt is that there are still loads of spares availability. of course after buying the site saw i thought i should get a 5kva transformer, wasn't sure a 3kva would be up to full load. the problem with buying a saw just for 'ripping material down' is that you don't have any other options whereas a more versatile saw can be more beneficial, the 3151 has a canting blade as well as doing crosscutting. interesting that you have an ls1216 as that is one of the mitre saws i've been looking at, what do you think of it?, i've read good and bad reviews. @Crofter the fence should only be extended as far as the gullet of the teeth at table level so most saws should stay fairly accurate unless the clamp isn't a tight fit. simon

storm, which storm? not too unpleasant day here simon

have to say, red pine, mdf, plywood and kitchen worktop burn beautifully in my woodburner simon

you may not wish to have it connected to your treatment tank as the blue liquid is, i think, quite sore on bacteria. there are now bio liquids but you would need to be careful simon

ah, the site masochist

extend the horizontals and take it vertically up the outside of the ewi, not as neat but a hell of a lot less work!

it's all about minimising cold bridging, stopping condensation and mould growth, esp in a bathroom. the middle top and bot is the same detail with different views simon

or this?

any use?

external window reveals? different language up here!

@Onoff i would have thought to keep the window where it is, if possible take some of the ingoes back a bit to enable you to wrap insulation onto window face. as i'm still learing about ewi and passive spec i could be wrong simon

https://www.aldi.co.uk/c/specialbuys/diy?q=%3Apopular&page=0 drill and compressor, perhaps more than you're wanting to spend but with the compressor other items can be added as req. simon

having a look at the rationel website there are spec drawings for the windows but not the doors, typically. being the auraplus and therefore double or triple gasketed you may find it difficult to shave the bottom. i would be tempted to bite the bullet, remove the door, tile to the outside to ensure watertightness and place door down on top of tiles. i'm presuming rendered to door frame and air tight taped on inner surface? the vibrating type flat bladed saw could be used to break the seal at render without making too much damage and mastic sealed after. i certainly wouldn't pack the underside simon

that's a lot of air being moved in a relatively small area, i wonder how loud it is? one thing that puts me off extract units, though with going mvhr i may need one to keep extract filter clean.

you've got 80-100mm concrete on top of what the drawings are calling dpc, i'd call dpm, returned up the wall, you can put whatever finish you like on top of that.

first one i came across,http://www.alumascroofing.co.uk/products/waterproofing/bituminous-membranes/euroroof-mono-flat-roof-membrane/ cheers

you have a beam and block floor with 120mm celotex on top with i reckon 80mm? concrete over that, if you were to place a mono layer membrane between insulation and concrete to use as a reverse dpm i would think that should keep it watertight. simon

you could always go old school, http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Water-Level and as they saw, water always find its own level. cheers simon

congratulations @Nickfromwales, not the easiest thing to make, however, how did you manage a winder stair without a newel? on the inside corner the treads/risers need to be attached to something. simon

hi and welcome, a 300mm-350mm twin stud or i beam wall fill with pumped cellulose will be warm and quiet, 3g windows, good design and mvhr = passive. i agree on the smaller footprint with founds poured incase of extension. futureproof running costs for the future. simon

an old piece of flat asbestos, nice and cheap, for some reason, no-one wants it these days.

i thought the same thing and uncommonly for me didn't say anything , it's not terraced but a builders way to save ground and sell as detached and sell for more than a semi. i too would build to right or behind simon

they all look blunt!