Simplysimon

going up a radio mast

similar to mdf looking at spec though maybe a bit coarser https://www.egger.com/shop/en_IE//DHF-DHF-underlay-board/p/DHF will have some insulation properties, though i assume minimal. it's the use as a air tight membrane that's useful, putting it on the outside away from damage from follow on trades. d4 and seal all joints and d4 to i beams.

if a system works there's not much point in changing it unless it can be improved, hence the smartply option. which outside insulation?

nope, they didn't like the idea of steel after updating their quote. buy a load of i beams and make your own, massivly cheaper ? 1st quote expensive, updated quote 50% increase. seems like they've got a good base and therefore if you can afford the passive title you can afford the kit, ludicrous. i wouldn't have thought the int. ins. would really be worth the difference in u value especially as you're using solid timber strapping which will need either cutting or boring for services. batten horizontally leaving spaces for cabling for swtches and counter batten vertically for pb.

with 360mm of i beams your u value will be at .1 so is the internal insulation really required and will make the fitting of insulation more awkward and leave cooler areas? i'm using a similar build up 350mm i beams, cellulose fill, egger dhf outside, osb internally either smartply osb or standard vcl (haven't decided yet), service cavity and pb.

without wishing to repeat myself 1x hammer, 1 x nail if necessary ? save a fortune, job would have been done by now.

just beat me to it

in the test bores we had done it was clay down to x metres then basalt. when excavated all foundations (strip) landed bang on whin within 700-1000mm, house ain't going nowhere. one of the bores didn't hit basalt.

as with others, the lower insulation will hold it in place, i on the other hand, would be far more concerned with the cold bridge below the threshold. really should have had a course of marmox or similar to break it.

the other 361 or 2 the gales blew them away ?

get it signed off with an opener and do what you want afterwards

@pocster someone needs help

i was just wondering whether anyone else has used armatherm? just got mine for under the steel columns. i ordered it on monday before 12pm and it arrived wed afternoon. excellent service, though not cheap but at least no cold bridging.

if you enquire at the local college you will probably find there are over 18's in a level 2 or 3 looking for work experience. also an excellent place to find an apprentice, lecturers well placed to recommend a student.

ewi before render?

higher number, double, must be twice as good = higher price, obviously ?

i agree when the boards are not glued down, with the boards glued with d4, how much are they going to expand? just something that came to mind.

it does, see two posts up, if nail is lost another is easily found ?

1. take a hammer, gently tap wall until note changes, take 1 nail approx 50mm wire, hit nail gently into wall where you think stud is. if it doesnt hit timber move nail to side where stud is thought to be, repeat previous step until stud found. 2. to other side of stud repeat above until edge is found, mark midddle of stud. 3. repeat as necessary along wall. costs - minimal, accuracy - quite high. works on pipes and cables but results are more interesting.?

my wife gets the blame as well

go 22mm, glued to joists, short ends shouldn't need supported at that thickness, though they should land on joist centres anyway.

a light spray of red diesel just prior to rolling, especially on a hot day will help bind them all together as the diesel softens the tar.

roughcast if wet and dry dash if, well.......pebbled

mark out head and sole as a pair, cut studs to length.clamp studs together, mark out position of dwangs. cut dwangs/noggins to size, use dwangs/noggins as spacer to place studs place, fix studs and fix dwangs to position. lift, wedge partition to position fix and clad. btw it's the same for joists, first 50mm from wall, second 400/600mm from wall to centre and 400/600mm c/c thereafter unless trimming an opening

just read the whole post about water softeners etc. this sounds familiar