Simplysimon

marmox , 65mm thick which is a brick thickness. use instead of one course http://www.marmox.co.uk/products/thermoblock brickie thought they were easy to use. as others have said, you need more insulation under slab.

phew! thought for a minute we were going down a walk on glazing saga there.

+1 and the larger the window/door the better the u-value should be as the bigger area of glazing lowers the value of the poorer u-value frame

doing well if he can get through at that height

take the wall down, re-use the bricks to build the wall to where you want it but build butts into it to support the 1/2 brick thickness.

this is a question i ask students, there are two identical houses on an estate, one has been done up with ewi, modern boiler and triple glazing and has a good epc rating but is on the busy main drag through the estate and backs onto a kids play park. the other has a 7yr old boiler, double glazing and no cavity insulation so has a poor epc, it is situated in a quiet cul-de-sac with a generous garden which backs onto fields. there is very little difference in price, which would you buy? the majority would buy the poorer epc house due to location.

so should i go with grundfos or get a different pump?

what are you doing at the bottom and top, if you don't lift the floor level up 25mm you're first tread is them 25mm higher than the second and you will notice it. the bottle at the top will also need the upperfloor raised to accommodate the 25mm.

stick like sh1t, no nail holes

if you use the quadrant you have, keep the facings to the same margin. as long as everything is equal and balanced it's fine. there's an old adage, 'if it looks right, it is right'

when it's pumped in at 50+ kg/m2 it won't settle much

when i built my shed the cladding was included in the price, they came from here.

get the workers to build a 145mm timber kit, clad it with osb and give it a coat of shed paint to keep it until you can clad it with something like a profile aluminium cladding for the walls and roof. i wouldn't go down the route of corrugated roof without a sheeted roof due to condensation. can be insulated at your convenience.

and? they're just stud walls. if there's enough money still to be paid they could be forced to do it. it's not an oversight, it's quite an alarming mistake, i'd be wondering what else may be incorrect.

sorry to highjack post, if i screed prior to kit going up do i need expansion gaps? thought it would be easier to lay sand and cement rather than barrowing in through doorways.

what i can't understand is why they put 18mm down in the first place, it's not like it's an option, which do you want 18/22mm? 400mm c/c - 18mm, 600mm c/c 22mm, it's a standard. it's a new stair unless not yet built, doors, ceiling height, what about building control? i'm sorry, there's no excuse for a reputable company to screw up so badly, personally i'd want the floor up and 22mm down. are there still monies outstanding to withhold?

https://www.usedkitchenexchange.co.uk/ https://www.theusedkitchencompany.com/ https://www.kitchenexchange.co.uk/

hi all, got a quote back from wunda, this is the spec, could someone tell me whether this is ok or whether there are some things to change. have heard grundfoss not the best cheers

keep the noisiest for 8am saturday and really pi$$ them off

they have advanced, i can, unfortunately, remember when mastic came in 25kg tubs and we bedded sash and case windows in this new 'stuff'.

mates house, had a problem with plumbing, went to have a look. had a look in the loft and went 'oh f**k', this used to be a trussed roof. previous owner did the conversion to room in roof, don't think an se saw it, however, he does have a completion cert. been ther a good few years and not many problems other than cracks in the ceiling after neighbour started doing work on his house.

put the ear defenders on and pretend you can't hear them and keep going! your house is obviously better than theirs, green eyed monster.

span 6.4 doubled up t42, span of 4.2 t42 single, it's the single with the small span which is now deflecting. will probably be fine when loaded with studs etc.

the cost of the beams, doubled up on one section due to span and then the time to fit the blocks, then all the cuts. had we known, the single leaf mid span walls would have been doubled to allow the beams to run continuously rather than side by side which contributed to a lot of cut blocks to fill the holes. it would have been cheaper to build a double wall. a dwarf wall to cut the span would also have negated the doubling up and would probably been cheaper it bounces slightly, was more apparent on the wide span with doubled beams but has since firmed up since the thin (25mm) screed. it is the smaller section which is still deflecting slightly. BTW specced correctly.

every howdens has a different price, we have some within in about a 20mile radius and you need to price everything at each one to find the best price for each item. absolute nonsense.