Simplysimon

ffs, i should start getting my hands dirty again! 3.5 guys fitting 1.25 windows a day, they're taking the pi$$

@Tony C there's a lot of care going to be required with all those 60mm sheets to avoid any gaps and potential cold areas. possibly worth considering i beam or twin stud construction with a blown insulation.

used/well used though must have pegs and wedges, keep your eyes open especially on gumtree, preloved and ebay as prices vary wildly for quantities. if possible go for steel staging. i'm buying as and when to get sufficient.

i did the same as @ProDave although blockwork wall. elec connection no problem, though still awaiting a meter, gas connection no problem, meter connected. strangely both gas and leccy meter applied for at the same time through the same company and the gas has been in for two months. b"$£&£"$. don't mention water f^&*!^% b"$£&£"$

do it once, do it right, don't do it again. that includes decoration!

you say the ground will be 60mm higher than patio, what is the ground, grass, flower bed? can it be banked away from patio. what's to lower side? possible to build a small wall to separate and delineate or at least give a vertical junction.

what type of construction are you doing?

sarking used if slating as to allow nailing. nailing into osb with slate nail will mean quite a few broken slates. if tiles are to be used then i'd go osb, faster sheeting, does the same job for racking strength but don't need to be careful in the nailing as tiles fixed to battens. yes you can osb and slate, however, you will need to batten/counter batten out as well

@Mr Punter are the short bars attached by threaded rod to the long ones, if so are they also ss or mild? same for the fixings through the doors

expanding foam?

the main difference is that timber frame can be built no matter the weather, cold/wet/frozen you can build timber, blocks cannot be built if the temp is too low. should be able to have a better u-value for the same thickness of wall with timber. more chance of a diy build with timber than block. separate 'method' due to a 'traditional' build being done by brickies as opposed to joiners. the brickwork trade is being marginalised/superceded by other build methods and a reduction of skilled tradesmen unless they are building facing brick and therefore those still building with brick/block wish to keep that method for self preservation, understandably.

when placing the adjustable feet, wind the nut up at least a 'fist' distance, this allows for the scaffold to be levelled and if on level ground won't need much adjustment. when adjusting to level always wind nut down, easier and less wear.

they are fexible until pb screwd to them and everything stiffens up. no-one is using it as everyone is still in the 50's and this is 'new' . guys up here rattle it up, don't bother with centres, approx 4/600 hit that with a few screws, place the edge stud, fix to pb and next sheet goes on. btw they're on about 2k a week for a semi skilled job. boring as hell but good money.

timber frame is 145x44 regularised timber, this will consist of four frames joined together at the corners, joists will be laid across box and anothe four frames the same as below will be placed onto joists, frames clad with osb. a brick skin can then be built up the outside and attached using wall ties fixed to osb. roof on the top and upper floor insulated between studs and between joists. simples. https://www.kilbroneytimberframe.com/timber-frame-housing from a quick search of 'timber frame walls' and images

if it comes to be that it's gooing to cost 7-10k in fees, i'd be looking to appoint a barrister as opposed to a solicitor. they will be far more knowledgeable about these sort of things

it would certainly increase the humidity

if you've got a service void, then depending whethe you have osb internally, vcl over the osb. service void then pb. if no osb, then vcl over studs, service void and pb finish. a lot faster than trying to seal every sheet of ins to stud.

naw, make the room wider

corner wc? https://www.ideal-standard.co.uk/inspiration/spaces-for-every-need/small-spaces.html

as stated previously design done for you, you could get a joiner to build it taditionally but engineers don't like that. it could be done with i beams but would need re-engineered for ridge loading but would allow you to blow insulation as opposed to cutting and fitting. so for simplicity as you say, stick with trusses. buy your insulation from seconds and co. if you have the insulation prior to trusses arriving then have them cut nice and straight and to size and if fillets cut and fitted to side of trusses, then the insulation can be dropped in as roof erected prior to sheeting.

and a hell of a lot cheaper

definitely stick with trusses

so what is the insulation to be and u-value?

recently on, (i think bbc), i liked the item on 4k tv and the optimal distance at which to view. about a metre from the screen!

fit around every opening and at each corner