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Posts
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Everything posted by Simplysimon
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just done my b&b floor, wouldn't do it again. expensive and quite a bit of deflection, live and learn. section IE has thermaliteblocks and IF has marmox. TBH i wouldn't bother with either as @ProDave says, make it simple - lay a slab.
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Compriband on window replacements - how to finish paint coating?
Simplysimon replied to gravelld's topic in Windows & Glazing
remove existing window, make up a frame, put in place of window, render to the frame. remove the frame and install window with a bead of sealant on the outer edge of the render. -
not any more they don't ? Your complaint–Fischer FutureThankyou for your patience in what we acknowledge has been a lengthy investigation. We received a considerable amount of evidence from Fischer Future in support of the claims in the ad. Our assessment of the evidence raised a number of concerns and Fischer Future has agreed to remove the comparative elements of the ad (claims comparingFischer heaters and conventional storage heaters). We consider that this will resolve the complaint without referring the matter to the ASA Council, and will consequently be closing our file.In a formal investigation, if the ASA Council decides that an ad is in breach of the Code, the advertisers are told to withdraw or amend it. Because Fischer has already assured us that the advertising you complained about will be amended, we consider there is little to be gained from continuing with a formal investigation, which would achieve that same outcome.Although we will not publish full details of your complaint on our website, www.asa.org.uk, basic information including the advertisers' name and where the ad appeared will appear on Wednesday 30thJanuary.
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internal as well as external? not normally a condition to that level. samples of finish is usually sufficient.
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try for siberian larch, oily finish (water beads on the surface) and very dense. should be quite long lasting
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Compriband on window replacements - how to finish paint coating?
Simplysimon replied to gravelld's topic in Windows & Glazing
windows in, fit a slightly tapered filler around where the render will go to. render reveals, remove fillers and place compriband in the space, paint to compriband. -
does anyone know the difference in the decrement delay, didn't want to mention the 'tm' words. frametherm seems to be better than cellulose for u values, at least the 32. @ProDave was there a reason for the 35 as opposed to the 32
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it says this one does masonry https://www.clydesdale.net/clydesdale-products/overhead-line-construction/product/portable-engine-drill
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no qualifiers in that statement, nit picking https://www.felthorpelawnmowers.co.uk/tanaka-ted270pfls-s-start-engine-drill-387-p.asp
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https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/Construction-Machinery/Petrol-earth-augers-and-hand-held-drill/216937-540/BT-45.aspx there you go
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What tool to slice off wood screws?
Simplysimon replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Tools & Equipment
if there's enough of the screw sticking out clamp the chuck onto it and use the battery gun to turn it in the right direction to remove. -
i know that 350mm of cellulse gives me a u value of 0.1, does anyone know offhand what 350mm of frametherm will give? save me working it out?
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@ProDaveas i'm still trying to save money, i'm now thinking whether i should go with the frametherm 35 as i can self install. i was going with 350mm blown cellulose for a u value of 0.1 but if i can achieve the same u value with the batts it would be sensible
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secondary glazing doesn't really help much with insulation as the air space is big enough to convect heat. it is usually there to help sound insulation though if well fitted it will stop draughts as previously mentioned. best option would be new windows with dg units and draught strip. next best option would be a clear film applied over the sash to minimize the thickness of the air gap similar to https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOUBLE-GLAZING-FILM-DRAUGHT-INSULATION-KIT-WINDOWS-6sqm/283447135980?epid=2301108758&hash=item41fec40eec:g:2dMAAOSw5lpcrfhB&frcectupt=true we put this in our first flat many years ago. would still require draught strips on sashes.
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as it's brick and block there is the chance of water ingress into the cavity. putting weep holes in will allow it back out. won't harm to have them.
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hi folks, as per title, brickie has said it would be far easier to screed prior to kit going up as he could use the wallhead to level from. he reckoned that once the internal walls were in it would take more time and may not achieve as good a finish. i've sent plans to wunda as this needs to be done soon if prior to kit, at least my insulation is on its way i thought i had loads of time for ufh. thoughts and feedback appreciated.
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@ragg987 is selling these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HSK-Pro-Walk-In-shower-glass-panel-200x140cm/272810820230?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 perhaps too large though
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Spans - Precast Flooring or intermediate support
Simplysimon replied to Moggaman's topic in RSJs, Lintels & Steelwork
i've just put a 6350mm span in with double beams and am shocked by the amont of movement in them. had i known how much deflection they would have, i would have put in a dwarf wall and halved the span. -
building control, 'i don't know about beam and block floors, i'll have to read up on them' fills you full of confidence, luckily i will probably know more than him.
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or they weasel out of it as per the two posts above
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but there are now so many complaints not being fixed, it surely means they have to then resort to NHBC to have them fixed or ignored, if you believe the reports about NHBC warranty
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just finished reading this as well, NHBC say "In addition, new warranty claims continue to fall, with this trend being a clear sign that the quality of new homes covered by NHBC continues to improve." how?
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PASLODE-IM350-FRAMING-NAILER-FULL-KIT-WITH-ORIGINAL-CASE-491-GREAT-PRICE/233182607919?hash=item364ac43a2f:g:lTIAAOSwsAVcniuT i've bought from this company before and was impressed with their service
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sounds like one of my mates, came in with blood running from his knee. 'i'd finished cutting the hedge (chainsaw) so thought the grass looked long and decided to cut it (chainsaw)' bounced off kneecap whilst swinging it. broke his wrist, had lightweight cast on it, phoned me, 'i can't grip the engine from the bike, i was thinking about cutting a bit off the cast round my thumb with the angle grinder to give more movement'. many more like that!
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only one on the bay, a 2012 for 8750+vat, 2200hrs and it's not selling. would seem to be ok and it's in the same county
