Russell griffiths

blue line, new pipe.

If you are on lead I’m sure the water company will replace free of charge as long as it’s not that far. I would not want a join in the house under the floor. If all the floors are up why not run a completely new pipe in a direct line from tap to tap under the floor in a duct.

I’m no expert, but from what I understand. You cannot run a duct for gas under the slab, basically if you get a gas leak it can enter the house via the duct. Trac pipe is directly buried no duct. We we are having an LPG hob, kitchen in centre of house, bottles on an outside wall, gas pipe is surface mounted along the garage wall and runs behind units in the kitchen, all surface mounted all marked up as gas.

ILLBRUCK air tight foam. then pack out reveals with insulated plasterboard.

Build a large lean to shed on the side of the static, put wood burner in there, keep work clothes and wellies in there, washing machine and freezer, I saw this done on a YouTube vid, in very cold climate, it made life so much more bearable in the static. dirty out side clean inside, no workwear passed over the door threshold.

@Tomthat is a ridiculously expensive way to buy it, you want it in a 50m coil. I personally would never run something in drainage pipe as to anybody looking at this later it looks like a waste pipe, they won’t expect it to have a power cable in it. Dont run water and electric in the same duct, they will probably want to go to different locations any way, the duct is fairly cheap in the grand scheme of things. Add up how many you need you will be surprised how many you actually need. Water in power in telecoms in power out,water treatment plant. Power out, garage telecoms out, electric gates and stuff ducts to any kitchen island, power, hot, cold water.

Well that depends on what you are building. a quality house for you and your family. or your general standard developer finish. the former will require a robust ventilation system. the latter will not as it will probably have trickle vents and extractor fans. if it’s highly insulated and a good airtighness then you have no choice. just past building regs with insulation values then probably no need. just depends what you are trying to achieve.

Oh Lordy. You had better think about that quickly, it needs a massive amount of room, you can’t just stick it in a 25mm void, it needs 100mm clear space under that floor for it.

If he’s a good carpenter he should have a dust extractor fitted to his tools, there should be minimal dust if this is the case. Ask him.

Do you not have MVHR.

Cons, you will probably need a crane to install beams or planks. So £6-700 for that, unless you can get a big truck with hiab. 100mm void needed below for ducts.

Have you got a digger, make a pair of timber tongs for a mini digger, short bit of chain and tongs.

My Graf unit comes with a computer control working the timer and pumped outlet. It runs for 6 mins on 4 mins off, I was told having it off for longer there is a greater risk of sludge blocking the holes in the air tube.

The steel will have a large foot welded to it, like a 12mm plate, this extends over the cavity and onto the outer brickwork.

Not if you want to get out in a fire.

That’s a dog shit finish, sockets should have been unscrewed and then masked as well. You would only paint around if it was a moody rental property.

He’s looking rather grumpy.

Easier to get a truck that mixes-on site, you will need two fit helpers and 3 barrows. Will be about £550 plus vat.

Your building a house, not a patio, why are you talking in 800kg bags, you get 3 15 tonne truck loads at £450 a truck. Stop thinking Like a diy bloke and think like a construction guy.

Tell nobody,

Most screws work, but avoid very cheap ones, normally £20 a box roughly.

Buy a roll of packing banding. 1000m roll is about £30 then a good quality staple gun. run a row of banding on face of joists, have others pre cut put insulation in and staple a band over it. I did 355m on my own like this.

Instead of fitting a pre formed tray and filling in the edges, why not buy a tray former that is too big and trim it down to get the waste where you need it.

If it’s a new build you shouldn’t need to raise it at all, there must be a way to get the waste out.