Russell griffiths

I’ve just heard of too many problems with any of the gypsum based stuff.

At 50mm they will both heat up quick. Go cemfloor.

With the cost of timber I think solid timber will not be a lot cheaper.

Yep £300 here Gloucestershire. Mine was here for a good couple of hours.

Timberframe, find a local farmer, unload trucks at his farm, load a trailer with timber panels and deliver to site, unload with telehandler and erect. Block outer skin, all brought in with telehandler.

Only for doing footings, or rough blockwork that will either be plastered or rendered. You can learn to put them up level and straight. But you will not be good enough to do any brickwork that is on show, if you do want it on show you will be so mind numbingly slow it’s not worth it. But to set out your footings, get up to damp, install first floor it could be handy.

Can you take that panel out ? if so it needs to drain into the cill and out the front of the cill.

I have had this, I normally de mount both sides and chuck the fitting, I’m not risking catching the rubber o ring to save a £2 fitting.

Picture.

Why do you need 120mm pir on top of 172mm eps. Do you have solid timbers as stiffening in the sips. Isnt a sips roof a warm roof already?? looks like somebody is making a fairly simple build up complicated. Ive never done a sips roof, but understand the principles of vcl.

first one I found.

Isn’t that picture either aluminium or steel. Wouldnt timber look to fat and chunky. You can buy what’s in the picture directly and install yourself.

That’s exactly it, but I wouldn’t use steel, use a glue lam and then you can use joist hangers to fix to sides. but price it up steel versus glue lam and hangers.

Sunday morning with a pressure washer, I bet it looks loads better, get the damaged bit rebuilt. Got to be worth a few hours to see how it comes up.

About as technical cal as my drawings get. I know what I mean, and that’s good enough for me.

Ok so know you actually said what you want to do. I lived in oz for seven years and built a couple of places. So dig a trench around complete perimeter 400x400 for a footing, add formwork so you can pour the floor slab and footing in one. Could look for a pic but I cannot be bothered. Plastic membrane across the whole thing. Termite barrier around any pipe penetrations. Walls 90x35 structural grade, cannot remember the number, get the blue stuff with termite treatment on. Frame walls at 400 centres, ensure studs line up with board sizes so 1200 and 2400. Double top plate divide long wall in half and put in a triple stud on both sides. Span side to side with a glue lam beam 225 x 90 or whatever you can find. Pitch roof as high as you can 10 degrees is fine for steel but the higher the better. Build a short stud wall on top of glue lam to pick up the centre of the rafters. Pitch rafters up from original house to front of new wall with the join in the rafters over this mini stud wall. Add gable ladder to both sides. Loads of insulation in roof. Sitting on ceiling timbers. Top hat on top of rafters, membrane, shines one with insulation inside, then tin. Crack a stubbie job done.

My door supplier insisted on a 30mm gap above the doors, due to lots of larger openings dropping over time. I would not fill this gap with anything solid, but wait for the doors to be installed then fill with an eps insulation and use a trim to match the doors, powder coated aluminium or pvc.

Do you mean extension, as in habitable, part of the house, or just a lean to to keep the mower under ?? If it’s the former then you need to think about everything, how will it comply with building regs, what wall design? what roof ? 10 degrees is not enough pitch for most roof materials, there are many that go that low, but will need designing in now.

Why measure rh surely you need to measure moisture content of the screed.

As a new roof, scaffolding up once, roof off, new facia soffit gutter and roof. Scaffolding down.

Stop messing about, you cocked up, so just fix it. Chop into the back wall and remove a 600 square of plasterboard, fix a noggin then shower plate then patch up wall and fill. You just need to close your eyes and do it.

Definitely put a window in, it will be a miserable place to work without one.

What you need to remember is that a standard scaffold board is designed to be supported every 1.2 m just because it’s longer does not mean it can be supported on just the ends.

Ok, I thought in the 1930,s it was all solid 9inch brick.

@RedMango are you sure about the cavity walls.