Russell griffiths

The only way to do this is look at the Australian standard for high fire risk areas. Looking at those houses in dagenham that burnt down a few of them had metal roofs. So brick walls and a metal roof, it would be interesting to see footage of how the fire spread to the houses and what bit caught fire first.

A sprinkler won’t stop your house burning down from an external fire source.

You can get James hardie board in a 150mm wide plank you could put that in the gaps. However I would look at metal roofing supplies and buy a coil of flat black roofing sheet, probably on a roll cut to 150-200mm whatever and staple this in vertical strips behind where the gaps are. You can actually buy metal strips for creating a shadow a shadow gap between sheets of ply for use on decorative ceilings and stuff, but because England is stuck in 1860 I have only found it in America and Australia. @Patrick could probably help with the metal.

Your house will burn down in the blink of an eye. The only reassurance is looking at the numbers and then the probability. How many houses in England ? how many houses burnt down this week ? calm down a bit and have a think. I lived in oz and they made some significant changes to building design following a major fire and many deaths. So you can design it out if you want, but you will need to scrap your design and go back to the drawing board, or look at the probability of it happening and carry on. A friend of mine had a whole house external sprinkler system set up on his roof, you could do that or again look at the odds, he was in a mountainside location where temperatures reached 30 plus for 3/4 of the year, a whiff of a flame and it would rush up the mountain. I think what happened yesterday was just very unfortunate and probably very unlikely to happen again.

If i was having an open gap, I would forget any membrane and clad the whole outside with a fibre cement sheet then paint the lot black, or even exterior ply with a black waterproof coating. I wouldn’t be happy with a membrane.

Can you not design the front at the front, just to please the planners, but have other sections of house orientated to do what you want.

You got it.

Is there an echo in here. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Can you fit back to back aircon, so no ductwork needed.

Build it like an outdoor bar, granite top with top mount sink, then that gives you an area for taps and a cupboard underneath to hide the waste.

You can paint thin coat render no problem.

Only if it is your designated disabled access toilet.

I’ve no idea what they have changed to, I just wanted you to be aware.

Have you had building regs passed yet, and if so at what u value for the walls, as the regs have changed and you need a better u value know if you haven’t already got it passed.

Just looked on a stair builder site so I think I’ve found what I’m looking for. Cheers.

Morning can anybody point me in the right direction for building regs for a hand rail on a new staircase for a new build. 1. Do you have to supply a hand rail ? 2. If so, on one side or on both ? 3. What height do they need fixing at. ? Cheers.

32mm defo too short. needs to be. 45mm.

Would depend on the finish you want, as you said you a re using wood I would think your going for a rustic look. I have used those screws and they are too pretty to be on show, very shiny and will not suit a rustic look. Ring shank nails either hand driven or nail gun, if the nail gun is going in too Dee then you haven’t adjusted it properly. Or I would go for a decking screw, but you will struggle to find them that short. My neighbour has just done a big barn with galv screws so he can remove a plank if he needs to. Really depends on look and timber pattern.

Have you got any more joists, if so put a double joist there. If not do as nod said. You should have some form of noggin in those i joist anyway. Should be a couple along the length to stop buckling.

blue line, new pipe.

If you are on lead I’m sure the water company will replace free of charge as long as it’s not that far. I would not want a join in the house under the floor. If all the floors are up why not run a completely new pipe in a direct line from tap to tap under the floor in a duct.

I’m no expert, but from what I understand. You cannot run a duct for gas under the slab, basically if you get a gas leak it can enter the house via the duct. Trac pipe is directly buried no duct. We we are having an LPG hob, kitchen in centre of house, bottles on an outside wall, gas pipe is surface mounted along the garage wall and runs behind units in the kitchen, all surface mounted all marked up as gas.

ILLBRUCK air tight foam. then pack out reveals with insulated plasterboard.

Build a large lean to shed on the side of the static, put wood burner in there, keep work clothes and wellies in there, washing machine and freezer, I saw this done on a YouTube vid, in very cold climate, it made life so much more bearable in the static. dirty out side clean inside, no workwear passed over the door threshold.

@Tomthat is a ridiculously expensive way to buy it, you want it in a 50m coil. I personally would never run something in drainage pipe as to anybody looking at this later it looks like a waste pipe, they won’t expect it to have a power cable in it. Dont run water and electric in the same duct, they will probably want to go to different locations any way, the duct is fairly cheap in the grand scheme of things. Add up how many you need you will be surprised how many you actually need. Water in power in telecoms in power out,water treatment plant. Power out, garage telecoms out, electric gates and stuff ducts to any kitchen island, power, hot, cold water.