Russell griffiths

Another one for studs and epoxy resin. If you use those concrete anchors you will get the occasional one that won’t grab. With the resin every one will work if you follow the cleaning of the hole instructions. M16 studs here, but I am a nutter.

Depends what it’s holding up. Flat roof or pitch with tiles.

What has been built is utter shite. No I don’t think the architect drawing is correct either, but the interpretation is rubbish I could do better with a 4 inch grinder and one eye closed. You need to get the arch re drawn and find a better way of executing it.

Have you got planning approved yet, I would start with that, find out how big you can go, then start looking at how. Then how much will you do yourself. And how much money do you have now. A timberframe is a lot of up front cost straight to the manufacturers, so if you are self funding you will need a big chunk straight away to start the ball rolling. Brick n block you can feed in money more steadily as the brickies need it.

@Onoff sod you mr onoff, I have a suspected cracked rib and you just made me laugh out loud. You bugger. : IN THE LAND OF THE UNFINISHED PROJECT, I AM KING : 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Do you have a link to that ? As I have had an offer to hand paint it onto a thin fibreglass from a co that just make lamp shades. That one in the advert I’m sure is metal. But will re check.

@Onoffwhats the mig welding forum mate, got a link. im a bit of a dab hand with the welder so fabricating it is not a problem. I also have a mate who makes retro 50-60s style lampshades from fibreglass so the plastic bit isn’t a problem. im going to talk to a couple of water jet cutting companies today.

Because the house has a mountain lodge, cowboy theme running through it. All timber ceilings and such stuff.

Sucky fu##y 10 dollar

That would make a pretty cool table lamp. The blonde reminds me of many previous girlfriends. Woohoo,

Can you imagine the shipping, just thinking of the duty gives me a shudder.

so we sort of have our hearts set on a light like this, however if you can see the price you will see that’s a bit ridiculous. So im going to make it myself. Im after a collection of ideas on how to actually do the build, but also what are the legal implications of making a light fitting. I can obviously get a qualified electrician to wire it up, but is that enough. Using off the shelf certificated parts would be a start. Anybody want to join in on this crazy journey @Onoff I’m sure this is up your street mate, not like you have much else to do 🤣 @pocster you can just sit in the background as anything technical you say will just be ignored, you are allowed to add insults and inappropriate pictures though.

Yes many ways to do it, just do a bit of research on the type of finish you want. Tiles or a tray all systems are different, so a basic run through is to lift the floor in that room and fit noggins on the sides of joists so your tray, or tray former sit down below floor height, so when you put appropriate floor back the tray is at the lower point. Need to look at type of former or tray and look at trap and waste position Everything is possible, just look at your finish and work back from there.

That is a stunning job, well done.

Is it not easier to batten out the wall rather than chasing in pipes.

KANGO. NOT MANGO. I have know idea how you would break up concrete with a piece of fruit. 🤷‍♂️

I would dig a 450 wide trench down the side of the existing cock up, mango off 200mm from the top of the cock up footing, then resin in 20 odd 16mm studs sticking out from cock up footing, then pour new concrete coming up to original level so it covers cock up footing and looks like just a wide strip, no join visible. Dont skrimp on the depth go full depth or further.

All suppliers are the same if you specifically ask for the clear grade, it all has to comply with how many defects (knots) it has per metre. The price is eye watering, look at about £5-7 per linear m making it about £90 a metre. Plus staining. If you want that look you don’t have a choice. I looked at loads of different materials but they all looked a bit plasticy, we are on the side of a lake and had a set theme in mind , if you want sharp and no maintenance then go composite plastic. If you want natural and don’t mind re staining every few years go wood.

looks like mine. 1800 wide, western red cedar and osmosis uv protection oil. It does depend what your after, you won’t achieve the look in your pic with pine, it has too many knots. You can stain it to whatever you want but it won’t have the clear appearance as in your pic.

Once it’s been up a year you wouldn’t be able to notice the difference, fit the one that will have a better life span and shed the water.

I’m sure you can fit them in 15mm, you just need to buy a sheet of 12.5 to fill them in.

Pilot hole with a large breaker bar. Pound it in to full depth and wiggle it.

No need for marigolds, it’s not poo, get in there it will only be leaves and a bit of crud from the roof, if it has the kitchen sink in it there could be the odd pea or a bit of rice ( don’t eat these)

It won’t be dark, it dries a very light grey colour. You really need the mosaic on top as the base is not very attractive, unless you can get a sponge finish on it.