Russell griffiths

It’s years old, I would expect to pay £450 for a new one.

Outside rotating level with a receiver inside any laser that does two different planes at the same time.

No. They are so big they are not interested, however there are a couple of eps manufacturers that are willing to deal with smaller orders. I know a few people who have ordered all their eps for insulated raft directly.

How airtight do you want it. You have trickle vents in windows and an extractor fan in the wall. Just scrim the joint and plaster it. Nothing else needed here.

Nope, nice first coat then laid in flat with a big wide spatula thing, then another coat on top. superb finish. not cheap, but I can see the difference. 👍👍

For your eps you want to go direct to the manufacturer. avoid the merchant for most things. manufacturer delivered a half attic load to me no problem. saved a fortune on pir prices.

I’m just at plastering stage, and wanted to sing the praises of my plasterer. I had a lad start the house and he did a couple of days and we parted company. so on a recommendation from another forum user I had another lad start. his work is on another level, absolutely 5 star. im a pain to work for as I’m very picky, the house is also very unusual with all vaulted ceilings at 4-5m high. so if anybody needs first class work carrying out send me a PM and I will pass his details over.

Am I the only one who has a phone and electrical gadget ban in the bedroom. Cannot understand the need to have a phone besides the bed on charge.

Have you picked a roof covering ? As 16 degrees is low for a lot of coverings.

Why do you want to get to them ? how often do you unplug the bedside table lamp. We have just done two sockets hidden behind bedside cabinets, then another to the side so it is easily accessible.

Need pictures and rough plans and area of country.

That is utter shite. I have a different make, but I have two windows that join. Each window had a routered out groove, a piece of hardwood timber was trimmed to a nice fit, then a generous line of quality sealant was applied to both windows then 4 screws added to pull the two together. I was given the option of a plastic cap, or do my own thing, I opted to have a neat hole drilled that will be filled with a wooden plug and then painted to match. What sort of air test rating do they do they give you for the windows, how do you think that will pass time to call out the installation manager.

I have had a triple sliding door, they are monumentally thick, I cannot remember how thick but I think 200mm plus. Its a hard thing finding an image of the internet as most are in foreign countries and not to the same spec. You will find dozens of pics of triple sliders but most will be single glazed. When you add in the size of double and triple glazing you start getting some serious thickness. Trying to hide that in the wall will be a serious job.

How far out from dry land, can you cantilever it.

I think for the cost of two sheets of pink board and a couple of hours work I will just do it.

Anybody know current regs for boarding under stairs. Im sort of thinking it needs doing to stop the stairs burning to give you chance to get down. But what about open tread stairs, these wouldn’t have any form of boarding. Thoughts before I phone building control. Cheers.

Just as a bit of a reference you have two different periods those walls where built. The top one has little white stains on it showing that it used to have lath and plaster on it, the other wall is far newer. I would bet my left one that the flats where once a single house and it was converted into 3 flats. The wall with the diagonal brace and the lath and plaster is an original wall, and the other is a newer wall installed by the builder who did the conversion. Just so you can do a bit more digging on the history.

Get a ferret with a big bushy tail. stuff him in one end and waft some rabbit flavour crisps at the other end. Clean duct. Dirty ferret winner winner chicken dinner.

Leave it as low as it is now, except a bit tidier, cut a 100x100 chunk out of the trench block and lay it over the top, no lintel needed.

If you are going to go through this delivery drama a bit, can you do it American style and forget the mesh and buy 12mm straight bar and use this as slab reinforcement. They normally put it at 450 centres. Could be easier to collect 12mm bar. Just a thought.

Having lived in a country where a lot of houses use tank water, then I think your tank choice is wrong. I’ve never seen a clear tank used. do you not get algae build up. I thought they needed to be completely dark.

It’s a closed cell foam, not open cell. So the resulting dried blob is like a firm rubber ball as opposed to the rice crispy like texture of the cheapo screw fix rubbish.

Brickwork will be too weak, a stack of bricks is strong in compression so will take the weight, no problem, but a good knock on a corner will have it tipping over. I would use 50x 50 angle iron. or just get a 2000 ltr round tank. I had a 3000ltr round tank and the pressure from the tap at the bottom was incredible.

Your buying the wrong stuff. i changed to the illbruck brand a couple of years ago and haven’t used any of the high expansion air leaky rubbish since. if you buy it in a box of 12 it’s not a lot dearer. get a can, it’s like chalk and cheese.

@MortarThePoint why are you avoiding using expanding foam ?? i use it absolutely everywhere.