Russell griffiths

Strips of insulation, glued and screwed, then plasterboard on top.

All my windows open outwards, they all have a little button that stops the amount they open, more from a security perspective.

Put one a day in your sandwich box and you won’t need to buy any 🤣

Looks wonky to me. What you think @Nickfromwales @Onoff

Leave it out fatso.

Just think of it coming out a bit crap, then times that by 100, then you will get it to something that you would see on a new building site. No matter how crap it is I bet you will get it 10 times better than a site bricky on price work. Get a level out, laser or water and find the highest points, make a note of these. Plot all points so you have a mental picture mark on a datum stick your finished floor level, damp proof course level and any other relevant markings. Start from the high spot and measure down to the footing, see how it works. If you are laying blocks on the flat you can easily stick 50mm between them if you need to. If they are upright you will struggle with bigger beds.

Have a look on outside, I bet there’s a snot catching water on a bed joint, knock that off first.

My two pence worth. If it’s a fight between MVHR and SOIL. Soil wins, unclip the mvhr and drag it out the way. Soil in first mvhr will fit around it, it’s only moving air.

All depends on what it’s for, looking at the duster house stuff I was immediately going to say no don’t do it it’s shit, but then I thought of what I did 6-7 years ago. We had an old bungalow that had no kitchen space, no room for a washing machine nowhere to hang your wet coats, we needed more room but didn’t want to spend any money as I wanted to knock it down and rebuild in a few years. So I built something that looks just like the duster house thing. Concrete slab, timber stud walls, flat roof, it looks like a Romanian farm shack, but in the 4 years we used it , it was the most useful part of the whole house. Washing machine out there, woodburner to dry clothes and boots, dog stuff, it really became a room that allowed the house to function with the dirt and grime of living in the country coming into the clean dry area of the house. So it depends what this carbuncle on the back of the house is for, it cannot be incorporated into the rest of the house as you will struggle to get it through building regs, but if you keep a door between it and the house I’m sure it could be of some use.

Just watched last nights grand designs, where they had a site break in. Damaged three large sliding doors to steal some power tools. so I thought I would just add a bit of my philosophy from running a business in London for twenty years. Our yard used to get ransacked regularly, windows smashed on trucks to steal the change from the ashtray, the answer was to leave the trucks open, we still got ransacked but they took £4 in loose change and it didn’t cost me £70 for a side window. My house site is the same. My front door is unlocked, the back sliders are open with a very visible gap, there is nothing in the house apart from my radio and a chop saw, I don’t take the chop saw out because it is screwed to a bench and I cannot be bothered. So if a scrote comes on to site, he can walk in freely and take the radio, if he’s feeling really clever he can unscrew the saw. Total stolen £400. Damage caused hopefully £0. If some scumbag sticks a crowbar down the side of my front door it’s going to cost me at least £2500 to pull the frame out and replace, loads of agro with the insurance company. So the doors unlocked. Just my way of dealing with it.

@Onoff do you actually want to spend £5000 minimum on doing this or is it cheaper and easier to just empty it every year for £200.

So new house, raised seam metal roof, all 355m of it, should it have some form of lightning conductor or some form of earthing. What has everybody done, roof is only 6m high but in a fairly exposed area. Hoping not to explode in the next storm. Cheers.

As i said, if it looks right it normally is, if you walk in and glance at it and go, oh my Lordy WTF is that, it normally needs improvement. Get some strap band like the welsh wally said and you can get all those fittings supported.

Good boy. 👍🤣

@pocster and @Thorfun those hangers, you get a length of threaded rod and cut it to length then you can make any hanger you want. As @ProDave said ,that bit in the loft is a bit horrid, the first bend coming from the vertical pipe need cutting back as you have a section of pipe with a back fall on it. If it looks right it generally is, if it looks a bit fugly then it’s normally not to flash. That bit in the loft is fugly.

This would depend on where you are fitting your windows, if you are insulating the timber reveal and lots of different things. How much frame do you want to see. You eally need to get your windows chosen and the frame design and make a little mock up to get it right. Or get a good drawing done so you can check it’s all ok.

Ventilation gap, batten cement board, cladding. But. I still wouldn’t do it, you need to look at the weight of the cladding, the load the cement board can take and all sorts. Go for a cement based plank or upvc, that area of the house will get all sorts of weather chucked at it, not a place for stone in my opinion.

With that much room at the side I would be re applying for a larger extension, so what you have there is not needed.

I’m confused. How are you going to get a dirty great Richard the third down that little pipe.

Another one for studs and epoxy resin. If you use those concrete anchors you will get the occasional one that won’t grab. With the resin every one will work if you follow the cleaning of the hole instructions. M16 studs here, but I am a nutter.

Depends what it’s holding up. Flat roof or pitch with tiles.

What has been built is utter shite. No I don’t think the architect drawing is correct either, but the interpretation is rubbish I could do better with a 4 inch grinder and one eye closed. You need to get the arch re drawn and find a better way of executing it.

Have you got planning approved yet, I would start with that, find out how big you can go, then start looking at how. Then how much will you do yourself. And how much money do you have now. A timberframe is a lot of up front cost straight to the manufacturers, so if you are self funding you will need a big chunk straight away to start the ball rolling. Brick n block you can feed in money more steadily as the brickies need it.

@Onoff sod you mr onoff, I have a suspected cracked rib and you just made me laugh out loud. You bugger. : IN THE LAND OF THE UNFINISHED PROJECT, I AM KING : 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Do you have a link to that ? As I have had an offer to hand paint it onto a thin fibreglass from a co that just make lamp shades. That one in the advert I’m sure is metal. But will re check.