Russell griffiths

Use a high build floor leveling compound.

Nobody has answered so I will chuck something in. any retaking structure like you have there will move and settle resulting in grout cracks. you would have needed it to be built to a huge over specification to say I want no movement. im afraid I think the design is flawed, and fixing such a ridgid thing as tiles to the face and tops of a wall and steps, somewhere along the line something will move, resulting in displaced grout, or a loose tile. I think the design is too rigid looking and needed some movement joints incorporated somewhere. either gravel strips at the junctions of walls and paving, or movement joints at internal corners. I think your design will not fair well in the long term.

My neighbours have a system that moves around to track the sun, far more efficient I believe.

I would like to see a bit taken from the Australian planning system we had two applications approved in Australia, one an extension and the other a new build. both had planning passed the same day I took the application to the council your development has to fit in with certain criteria laid out by your local governing body. take your application in, if it fits in the criteria then it passes, simple. if you design something outside of the criteria then it has to go before a planning officer to be assessed and dismissed or passed. this bit can cost loads and take a good while. it frees up planning office to deal with a minimum of applicants.

You shouldn’t run a cable behind the skirting. it is not a safe zone, all electrical wires need to be in the safe zones as set out in the electrical regs.

I’ve been looking at this recently it looked like the cheaper end had 25mm panels and the dear ones 40mm panels. look for one with a threshold that has an upstand that the door closes down to with rubber sealing strip. I thought the u value quoted was pointless as the weakest area would be air leakage around the seals.

It sounds like your talking to SE without having one come to site. pay for a 2 hour site meeting, get the plasterboard all ripped out upstairs so you can see what’s going on. it will all become clear very quickly.

I tiled first and door linings sat down on top. I would cut the bottom of the lining with a multi tool sat on top of a tile to get the correct height then slide the tile under. look so much better.

I looked into this back in 2018 ish. I didn’t think they had a very good insulation value and you needed to add more. is this still the case.

Show us a pic of the banister area.

I’ve bought all sorts of crap over the years, but that one would worry me slightly to the point of putting things on hold for a minute. That needs more investigation.

With a raised floor just be aware of rodents i would want a solid base beneath the insulation either plywood or cement sheet. just not a membrane then insulation, it will make the nicest rodent house going.

Just flicked through this, so just a quick point I have. in a house that size I would think you need a dedicated plant room, fitting one unit in a laundry it will take up a huge amount of space, fitting two units will be an insane amount of pipework and manifolds. I’ve been on a few jobs these last few years and it never ceases to amaze me how much room we need to allow for the MVHR. the silencers are chunky things, then put them on some 180mm pipe work and it all gets very space consuming.

Did you have a look at the mcalpine catalog. loads of variations in there.

Is that Glasrok H or something like that.

I started another question on this but didn’t explain properly, I’ve asked that it be deleted. wet room/ shower room im looking for a board that can be tiled over in a wet room environment, but also 2/3 rds of the room will be painted, is there a board I can use as a tile backer, but then skim it for painting in the rest of the room. it would be nice to board it without have to swap boards as I exit the shower area. what’s your go to board on site @nod cheers.

@ProDave morning I’ve not really explained myself in this post, can you delete it and I will do another with a better explanation. cheers.

What’s everyone thoughts on boards for walls in a shower / bathroom. a third of the room will be a walk in shower, then the rest plastered and painted. I would like a good modern solution for the shower area, then be able to skim the remaining walls ready to paint. cheers.

Stay friendly with the neighbours who will ever know. be carful cutting back bushes, look out for nesting birds. the easiest way to piss someone off is to have a bonfire stick to this and I’m sure you will be fine

It is annoying, but set your main run through as the lowest run and side branches will step up from that. I know that doesn’t help if your trying to design something and need measurements now.

Er, funnel bigger newer machines have their own pump, put it in the drum and turn the switch on.

I always think of these things from the finished article backwards. what is your wall finish, will you end up with a slither of tile in that corner or are you hoping the tile from the other wall floats into the niche, I personally think further from the corner would look better.

What’s to stop you dropping the 100mm insulation between the top chords of the posi’s then putting 100mm over the top foam the bottom 100mm to the pos’s then a bit of further details from below, foam all gaps to the walls with illbruck foam, not the cheap nasty open cell stuff.

This is not the same situation. new build, not a 1930’s semi that needs the airflow through the roof space.

What do you mean by the dry type will take a lot longer. wet self leveling stuff they will be done in 2-3 hours, dry traditional they will be done in one day. hardly much longer. drying time will be longer, with traditional you will need to stay off it for a couple of days if it had an inhibitor in it when laid.