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Everything posted by Russell griffiths
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So looking for any hints or tips that anybody has used in trying to get consent for a replacement dwelling. Our case officer keeps quoting policy 22 in the town plan about size of the replacement, and we are finding evidence of other dwellings that have gained approval that did not comply with policy 22 to counterattack his argument. We are just after a few more pointers in case we have missed anything. To fill you in a bit, we have a house on site that is 66m with lots of sheds and outbuildings present. The propossed plan is to replace this with a house of 166m with an attached garage and carport. What he is doing is refusing to accept any of the outbuildings on site in any measurements, so basically only saying we have 66m to base our new dwelling on. Any thoughts appreciated no matter how random. Cheers russ.
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So to be a bit clearer, we live on site already so know the neighbors (they love us) we are getting letters of support prepared. The case officer ? is not so supportive, so I have been told by our town planning company that we can approach the councillor as he will be next in line with the decision making if it is going to go to committee. I was just after some hints or tips on how to approach them, I have actually spoken to them previously regarding a planning application we wanted stopped. The ? Down the road wants to put a concrete crushing plant in his yard. Not if I have anything to do with it he's not, but he will probably get it. Where as my little replacement dwelling will get refused.
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evening. We have been advised to make friends with our ward councillor as he will be playing a part in our planning application, has anybody got any tips or pointers on how to go about this the right way. I fancy a meeting in a park with a folded newspaper with a big wedge of £50 notes in it but my wife thinks we should do things correctly. Cheers.
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China plate @Nickfromwales come on son can't you speak cockney.
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Finally finished the front garden.
Russell griffiths replied to Gone West's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
Very tidy. Well done. -
Ok in that case my one has the standard bayonet fitting on the wall, from this a standard flexible hose proper cooker one not the silly orange bbq stuff, this is solid fixed to the back of the cooker with a straight threaded connection. If i was doing this I would take off the orange hose and chuck it, look at the entry point on the oven and measure thread diameter, it will be fairly standard, go to your local plumbers merchant and get black flexible pipe and ask for a fitting to go from that to the oven, get the correct tape/ adhesive for lpg and connect it all up, check very thoroughly for leaks with soapy water.
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When we moved in we wanted an lpg cooker the best thing to do is find your nearest gas safe plumber who will come and fit your bottle(you are better off with 2) fit a test point and change over valve and check it's all safe and give you a piece of paper to say it's all cool. Took about 3 hours cost about £165 all safe and done, don't scrimp on this would you be happy with a jubilee clip leaking gas into your kitchen I wouldn't.
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I'm not sure what you are trying to achieve with this make up, it looks very much like a mix up of two types of floor suspended timber and concrete slab. It looks far to complicated for me. why not. compacted stone sand blinding dpm 200mm eps ufh concrete slab engineered timber
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Thanks for that. I can see @ProDave reasons, you never know what will happen after you have left a job.
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I had heard of the plant pot thing but was concerned it may look a bit bodgy if we ever have a survey done or something similar.
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So what are your thoughts on the downlighter hoods, not the intrumicent ones but the boxes that allow insulation to be placed directly over the top. As the price of them is shocking can I make up some boxes using plasterboard, I only need 4 so think I can knock them up in half an hour.
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Hi I want to install some downlighting in a bathroom in our current house but the information will be handy to have if we ever get planning for the new house. What I am confused about is different lights and loft insulation. Is there a clear rule for light type if I want to have loft insulation over and around the light. I can buy fire rated downlights and I can buy led lights that give off very little heat compared to the older style low voltage hot as hell ( halogen ) ones, but can the fire rated ones be completely covered or do they still need a hood over them? the fire rated are more expensive so is it easier to get a gu10 with led bulb and then install the hood thing over the top. I want to keep the continuation of the insulation as it's a cold draughty house but very conscious of over heating the fitting and fire risk. Cheers russ, confused in Cirencester.
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I fitted them in our first house, it did make it stand out as better detailed than everyone else in the street. Cut ours out of. 25mm mdf with a chamfer on the side. Think I used a piece of window board instead of. Buying an 8x4.
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Why do you need to seal joist ends if you are fitting a membrane on top of the joists. Any way you can use a batt type insulation instead. Have you seen the price of sheet type insulation, and also cutting and fitting is a pain. I have previously used rockwall type insulation suspended on a net system slung over and draped between joists.
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Rendering and airtightness
Russell griffiths replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Plastering & Rendering
I use mine for acrylic texture coating. If I was doing a rough parge coat just for sealing purposes I would slap it all on with a broom head. Keep it simple. -
Rendering and airtightness
Russell griffiths replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Plastering & Rendering
The one above is mine, cost about £65 you need the little blue thing on the air connection it is a second regulator and makes adjusting the pressure at the gun so much easier. Will run off a standard diy compressor. Watch the grit size in your sand I would use a very fine sharp sand or as some would call it plastering sand or Leighton buzzard. Plenty of cement as it will make it a bit slicker i use a figure of eight pattern. Dont scoop the muck muck out of the barrow like the Neanderthals in the vids, make a scoop or you will end up in the biggest mess ever i would lend you it but it needs a new set of seals in it. Plenty on e bay, but I would avoid the smaller round hopper as you can't get a lot in it. -
Rendering and airtightness
Russell griffiths replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Plastering & Rendering
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cheapest way to add depth to floor
Russell griffiths replied to Alexphd1's topic in General Flooring
Any solution of anything on top to raise your levels is going to cost in materials and labour, cutting down where the doors sit is labour only plus a diamond disc. Cut them in. -
If the threaded bar is a bit feeble you could ask if you can change the spacing to match the spacing of the concrete pads inside the blocks. How we fit the wall plate without struggling, mark its location on the wall and ping a chalk line to give you the bottom height. Fix a temporary timber roof batten screwed into face of block, you can now sit your heavy wall plate (rim joist) correct word in my book on top of the batten it will help support while you mark and drill all the holes. When all tight remove batten and use it on the other side.
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Watch carefully the wording in some of that spec, it says masonry hanger, in my mind you will not be using a masonry hanger but a timber to timber hanger just be careful when buying. Regarding the threaded rod you would need to check the loading for the bolts specified and then look at the threaded rod. Some threaded rod is like cheese when it comes to strength. The bolts will be in a shear type environment so see what the se wants.
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Cladding with a Cherry Picker
Russell griffiths replied to Fallingditch's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Anybody thinking of cherry pickers, look at getting a scissor lift instead it has a larger bucket so would be easier to get longer planks in and the ability to walk from end to end. -
Cladding with a Cherry Picker
Russell griffiths replied to Fallingditch's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
That works fine. ? -
Hi welcome, we are in Cirencester. We brought and renovated 2 houses to try and get what we wanted. Now on our second new build ( if we get permission) look at older stuff usually better sized rooms than the new shite, and larger plots
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Design for Racks for Spray Painting Skirtings
Russell griffiths replied to Ferdinand's topic in Decorating
Sounds perfect. But maybe your over thinking. Why do you need to spray it all at once. 32 lengths is a lot, I normally only have enough room to do dozen pieces at once, if using acrylic paint I find by the time I've got a coat on, the first ones are nearly dry enough to put on a second coat or move them and start another load. -
So I seem to have done a complete about turn and moved away from timber frame to icf, so re,doing a lot of research. First question icf are available in different insulation widths anything from 50mm to 150mm with obviously different u values, but also you can have a thinner standard block and add additional sheet eps to the outside to increase overall thickness. So the question is what would be the difference between using a thicker block in the first place as opposed to a thinner one and adding additional sheets to the outside? I'm trying to come up with a benefit of adding the extra and all I can think of is bridging all the block joins with a larger sheet May in someway prevent heat loss. Any thoughts. @Stones
