Russell griffiths

I think I would postpone until you can get some doors on and a bit of heat in the house. You shouldn’t plaster if at anytime in the drying process the temp drops anywhere near 2 degrees, it would be nicer if it was 5 and rising. i would board up all openings and hire a site heater and warm the place up before they start and keep it warm until they finish. A couple of those oil filled rads on wheels will take the chill off, and you can pick them up really cheap. Remember warm, not hot. Or it will dry to quick

Ok that’s sorted then all over it is. Cheers.

Tbh regarding the planning I like the single story concept, what I don’t get is why you can’t get a straight one to one man to man answer out of the ? btw our last 3 houses have all been single storey.

Your lucky it’s not in Chinese like a lot of stuff. Some of the translations make me laugh.

So in my mind I think I’ve got this sorted but after some far more educated opinions. So due to our planning officer ? can you tell I like him. We are redesigning and going to end up single story. Ie a bungalow, so 3 bedrooms downstairs, so do I put underfloor heating in the 3 bedrooms and look for a low tog carpet or no ufh in the bedrooms and put in a different type of heat, rad, electric radiator, i am concerned if I don’t put it in I will have a floor slab with large unheated areas which will lead to cold spots dragging heat from the heated areas I will also have an ensuite in each bedroom so will have to get the pipe work in there which means crossing the bedroom floors if I want to avoid going under internal walls. Cheers russ.

I seem to be going around in circles, I originally wanted to stick build on site as I had done this previously, but then moved towards icf after reading a couple of blogs and doing a bit of research. Our new house design has some large roof overhangs 1.5m in places so I thought I would need a company like Cullen to design the roof structure, so started to do some more looking at projects that they do, and here I am looking at timber frame again. Im sure life’s not meant to be this hard.

Just a couple of ideas Is the cavity staying open? can you not close the cavity with a block on it’s side with a damp course between the outer block and this block on its side then put a wall plate on the inner block 50mm high then have some insulation 50mm high in the cavity area, sit your joists on the wall plate, build your new studwork off of the joists. Just an idea.

I have looked into this @IanR and would like to find someone who has actually done it, as I would like to go and have a look at theirs. I really can’t get my head around what build type I want so would like to tour some sites with differant build types.

Did I read on here recently about somebody building with a Larson truss type wall or jji joists i think it was being designed by a specialist company and then pre cut by another company. Any body remember.

How come you want to sit them higher? have you poured up to that level. Tbh both ways look fine to me the only argument I can see is if bc say that you won't have enough air flow with it being tight to the underside of the floor.

Seen it done with I think ground walnut shells, looked to do the job very well but the dust, mess was horrendous

I popped around to our proposed site today armed with a 5m fishing pole, I stood it in the air and to be honest it looked fine, it just seems a long way up when you are used to 2.4m ceilings at the moment.

Have you got a picture @Vijay

Might start a new thread to ask about pipe sizes.

Hmn. That got me ?. It would be nice if they made a (y) type join

Ooh er. Not sure I would be happy dropping to 32mm this pipe feeds our hopefully new dwelling plus two holiday lets plus outside toilet block. Would be scared of lack of flow over that distance. Someone must have thought it necessary to run it in 50mm as it was here before we moved in.

400m @PeterW it reduces to 32mm at about the 200m point this is where I located a stopcock so I can isolate the last 200m to see where the leak is, guess what, it's in the first 200m in the 50mm. Lovely jubbly, as if I haven't got enough things to spend money on.

Have been thinking digging a trench and putting a new main in may be the answer but have you seen the price of 50mm mdpe it seems to go through the roof as soon as the size increases. Scary.

I bought a month as a quick tester, if I couldn't use it it's not the end of the world

aren't you building in icf? if so can you not cut the inner poly down 50-75mm so the black letterbox sits under the level of the beams. Got out a pic.

So after a meeting with our planning officer ?, we have been asked to do some alterations to our plans, so rather than go back to the architect with a wheelbarrow full of money I thought I would try to get the plans 90% right and then give it to him to finish of, so I brought an app called architouch 3D that I have used on my I pad, there is not an hour that goes by without me being impressed with it. Gets a big thumbs up from me. ??

?? you hit the nail on the head, we have a computer generated image that you can scroll inside, and that's exactly what it looks like, I think it's because the walls are white in the plans so looks very tall.

The main room is 8m x 7.5 it contains the sitting room and a dining area, height to the top peak outside is 5.7 so allowing 400mm for roof build up, I'm also thinking of having a 300mm service zone on the underside of the roof as I have so much height. So highest point to underside of ceiling will be about 5m.

Evening a bit random, I wanted people's views on their vaulted ceiling height, we are having a bit of a replan and after taking some dimensions of our drawings it seems that our vaulted ceiling height at the highest point is about 5m. To me this seems huge, I don't want it to feel like I'm sitting in an aircraft hanger. Anybody have any thoughts.

do you mean the beams have a flat area below the height that the blocks sit at so providing a free air gap that the periscope can sit in so allowing good air flow? if so this sounds good to me.