Russell griffiths

https://www.houzz.co.uk/photos/504212/swedish-exterior-traditional-exterior-new-york how wild do you want to go I get a lot of inspiration from this site.

The original idea behind the strong boy was you could work from one side whereas with a needle you have to go to both sides of the wall, if access is not a problem needles all the time, if you don't want to destroy the internal area to the room above then strong boys.

Some good points there about icf I hadn't considered.

Who's icf system is that @jamiehamy

So again fwiw if you tile your main flat area first , last flat tile will overhang your flat area and extend into your fall area (is this correct) if so with a 2% fall let's say you have made your flat area 100 mm larger than it needs to be your flat tile will project onto your slope area by 100mm the bed under this tile for arguments sake is 5mm when sat down firm so you will have a strip of tile 100mm wide with a bed joint 5mm thick + 2%. This is ABSOLUTELY negligible just screed up to the flat area you have laid now.

If you are a bit concerned in doing the hand screed thing do as @bassanclan said and mount your angle temporarily, fill area and rough out your shape then pull out the angle iron and fill the thin strip and finish trowelling. Having just read the last couple of pages and looking at pics, that is a 3 hour job including all the mixing and carrying in doors. No problem son for a man of your caliber can I ask what is the outside ring off angle for are you not using the other previously laid area as your level area, surely this sloping slab has to blend in join up with that one doesn't it ? If this is the case you already have a datum point all around to work off. JFDI

Ok so in my very humble opinion you are making this far harder than it needs to be. I cant chat long as I'm sitting on my hotel bed waiting for the misses to get ready so I can go out and get wasted. In yhe vid he has a centre drain, yours is at the end, work out your preferred fall to this drain and set it down (I think you have already done this) mix up a load of screed, if you want to modify it you can add a bonding agent to it or even some 10 mm stone, mix up all you need in one go don't be fu###ing about you will be very busy in a minute chuck it all in and compact very well, use timber or a level to scrape to desired height DO NOT WORRY IF FINISH IS NOT PERFECT. you are trying to get correct fall not a surface good enough to varnish, when you are happy you have youralls you can then go over it and give it a good polish up fill in all the voids, if you want shiny use a steel trowelled finish if you want a bit of grip buff it up with a plastic float. Hurry up I'm of for a pint and a boogie, I expect it finished by Sunday night. Chop chop. While ive been slowly typing you have replied. Take your auto cad and print it out chuck all you mix in like I said refer to your drawings and scribe into the top of the mix your two long fall lines use a straight edge and edge of trowel, you will end up with a screed mix that has a 4 section triangle thing if viewed from above. Check your measurements 324 times ( I put that bit in for you ) look at it a couple more times and adjust if needed, polish up and fill in any little low spots and shave of any high ones. Open a can and drink to my good health.

Right mr @Onoff

I can't be bothered to read all the previous posts but why are you trying to form this with a concrete mix, i have formed dozens of shower and wet room floors all to falls and we use a screed mix,slightly wetter than you would screed a whole house just form the falls using a spirit level and a few bits of 2x2 cut to the required lengths chuck all your mix in and level with the existing floor area. Scape down your fall heading to the drain just keep dragging your level over it checking you have the fall you want, trowel up to a good finish ready for your tanking. I will try to find you a vid as I have very few pics of work I have previously done. All wet rooms in oz are like this you will struggle to even buy a shower tray.

Are you doing your slab yourself ?

Any reason you are not using icf, this is what I would do light weight to move about easy to add the reo, many approved systems for waterproofing. The time you buy all that ply just to form it up then you take the formers down and you still need to insulate the walls your left with. I would be interested to know @Triassic why you are not doing icf.

@Onoff mate you took the words out of my mouth.

Ha ha, I typed out a big reply earlier telling you to either take the wall down or level the floor but you must fix that as there's a cock up there for sure. I deleted it before posting as I sometimes get accused of being a bit quick to point out negatives shows I was right glad you fixed it looking at that gap would have driven me mad.

We brought a ceramic double sink, it had a dish in the surface that mounted on the wall, out by15mm give it a good check, and then check the wall floor junction something is way out.

Sort of the same as peterw said but we wrapped our pipe with 100mm foam and taped up this left a void around the pipe about 20 mm in diameter, big enough to either put a coupling on or push a pan connection on. Fill any remaining void around pipe.

Just regarding stainless or galv I have had the galv rust before especially at the cut ends. So be careful to re coat cut ends or try to avoid cheaper poorly galvanised stuff, there is a lot of poor quality galv fencing around that is rusting after only 5 years. If just for the reveals can you use a modified bag render and include the fibre mesh in it, what are your corner beads, after using plastic I don't think I will ever buy a galv one again.

You won't be able to see the wall in the garage as it will have a big flat screen telly on it and a beer fridge.

Instead of grassing him up could you not go and give him a heads up that he could be frazzled.

The type of finish I got with a tube of ct1. It all depends what you are after. I wouldn't have this in the house, but a wall that is going to have a big water tank in front of and a load of pipe fixed to it, might be good enough.

I suppose this all depends on what finish you want. It is your plant room are you going to just slap a coat of paint on to keep it all clean or our you expecting a finish to match the rest of the house. Also is it taper edge board or square edge. If if you want a finish to match the rest of the house I wouldn't use anything but what is recommended by fermacel. I have installed 3 square edge boards in a scruffy boot room area we have and have just run a bead of white ct1 along the joints and painted, it looks fairly respectable and would be fine for a plant room/ boot room/ dog kipping area.

I am also thinking of this but thinking of using it on a ceiling. Has anybody seen a rail system that provides a shadow line gap between the sheets. I've seen it on a job I was on but can't find it anywhere.

I would cut a patch larger than affected areas, clean area and prime stick patch on with stickaflex or ct1 smear around edges and smooth off with a paintbrush dipped in appropriate thinner, prime and paint over the whole patch. Go to pub with money saved from all those bent twisted welding rods. Ca Ching. if you remember my original answer to your dilemma regarding the container roof you will recall I recommended STICKING a patch on. So if you had followed this advice you would now be a.

Thanks everyone most helpful ?

I hope your going to put it up in your workshop.

Good on ya mate, smashing job?You can have a diploma ?‍?