Russell griffiths

Do not be tempted to use the softwood sleepers sold in most BM or garden centres they will rot away as soon as your back is turned.

https://youtu.be/9TsnvcppREE i think adding a screen makes a far better product. Removing the fines produces a better hardcore, I have brought in a considerable amount of crushed concrete over the years and stuff with a lot of brick fines in it always turned mushy.

http://www.wecancrush.co.uk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5MX9hJba1wIVBLftCh3IuQ_OEAAYASAAEgKr_fD_BwE i was thinking about one of these.

I am thinking the exact same thing I have 3 concrete slabs to remove. Things I have thought of. What will I use the resulting product for? I think for under a raft slab or foundations of any sort the finished product would not meet the spec that was needed to satisfy bc. So it would only be good for under driveways or to keep the area around the house clean or to build up under patios etc. Easy questions to answer how much will it cost to get rid of what you have? how much crushed brick hardcore will you need? How much will a crusher cost? You need to look local for this as transport will kill it, you also need an excavator to run it, yourstandard self builder mini digger won't do it.

Binary chop already done found a stop cock and isolated that half so just have a 200m run to do. How hard can it be. We have a new electric cable to lay so I may dig that trench and see if the trench fills with water from the leak. A man with a plan.

Just seems like a game of needle in a haystack. Going to make my listening device and keep hunting.

We have had numerous lads out from Thames water with the metal probing rods, and they can't find a thing. The thing that baffles me is they want to conserve water and stop leaking pipes but as soon as it's on private property they don't care and even told me it's down to me to find the leak as it's not there responsibility. So I offered to pay and was told they don't even supply this service I need a private contractor. This worled just baffles me sometimes. Looking up up things on YouTube I'm going to try to make one, just ordered a stethoscope of e bay.

Spot on @RichS this is what I have done for the last couple of weeks changed a stoptap in the 32mm and dug up and located a couple of others, leak seems to be in the longest run, isolated all short sections and the metre is still spinning. So now we need to go hunting. Just looked up gas detectors and it seems that they do indeed inject a gas into the pipe work as it is easier to hear on an ultrasonic detector.

ok two questions here about two different supplies we have. If a mains pipe has low pressure and we have had a pressure check done by the water company is there a way of finding a blockage or break. I know if this was drainage we could stick a camera down and have a look, does anything like this exist for a water main it's 20mm pipe and for the life of me can't see it being possible, but I'm always amazed by new technology. Ground penetration radar? Am I being crazy. On a differant pipe we believe we have a leak, what methods are there of finding the leak, this pipe is 400m long and starts of in 50mm and drops to 32mm and then supplies to buildings outside taps are run in 20mm, I have started to dig up any stopcock I can find and check for leaks or renew them as needed so far it has made no difference, so we are thinking the leak could be anywhere on the remaining pipe. Somebody told me of gas detectors where they disconnect the water coming in and connect a coloured gas and go looking for it coming out of the ground. Anybody heard of this. Cheers.

You may need to look at the other connections as well, how do the shower and basin join this run? Adding jobbies into the mix may mean you need to join the shower and toilet in a different configuration as you don't want jobbies flowing back up and coming out of your shower. I have seen this happen not nice. ??????? got a pic.

Would it? What if the boxing was quite wide like a chimney breast on an outside wall 900wide 150deep could it look like it was always there ? i made some very nice window details out of poly covered in fibreglass mesh and render. Every body who came around had to give them a tap as they couldn't believe it was polystyrene.

If you put 200mm of ewi on the outside you could go straight over the soil pipe and never know it's there. Winner. ????????? on a serious note is it a possibility to make boxing out of Ewi and hide the soil pipe. ?

Very few bargains about unless you want a pile of poo. You can pick up ex site containers for 6/7 hundred but they really are battered.

Regarding containers, I used to buy and sell a few each year as and when I needed them on a job. Look at a 20 footer 40 footers are a pain, they are hard to find things in them,just to long and skinny, they are also hard to re,sell you will find every man and his dog will want your 20 but not many people have room for a 40.

Wall starter. Why? Why would you want a garden wall joined to the house. Has it been on the sherry? Can't it stand up on its own. I would not want to penetrate the outer weather proof surface of the house with anything. Starter bars bits of reo wall ties nothing. Finish the house and build the garden wall up completely independently. If you don't want a gap you can fill it with a flexible mastic but I don't see the need to have it tied to the house.

Hi anybody use this product? im having a bit of a go at redesigning and I'm stuck on colouring in doors. Sorry for being a numpty.

If this is just a garden wall. I.e. No roof, then finish the house exterior up to nearly ready for paint and then think about garden structures. Any reason for building it now? i bet if you put it in you will find it will be in the way to do jobs on the rest of the house. Im going to go way out on a limb here, but try not to go around doing jobs just because your capable of doing that bit and avoiding the bits that need doing but your a bit stuck on. Hows the house going and piggery, Obviously you need to have all the outside bits in your grand plan in case you need to run services or put footings in but keep them in a schedule in line with the rest of the build.

Hmn had to think a bit about this without sounding like a c##k i think I may do this the opposite to what @nod has said. To work out out how to do things correctly sometimes you need to look at what has failed in the past. Garden walls or other exterior structures attached to the house can be a path for damp. In a former life I've I spent a lot of time looking for reasons things had failed damp was always a big thing we had to look into. How are you finishing the the top of the wall? What is preventing rain hitting the top of the wall and bouncing against the house. How are your durisol blocks being finished they look to be a bit porous, are they? How are you providing the rainscreen layer for the house. Two ways to look at it 1.you are building a big bridge across the damp course and a route for damp penetration 2. Is always been done like this tie it in slap some render on it go to pub it will be fine. Hope that didn't sound to c##k like.

Like this pic.

In oz they fit a system called a first flush it allows the first so many litres to go straight to waste, a floating ball in a pipe then rises to shut off a valve this then diverts the water to a tank. Before the water even gets to the first flush the downpipes empty into a hopper with a stainless mesh in it this gets rid of the big things like leaves.

From all the work that was done on our place I've found out that this is not really how it is looked at. Without a house all the rain that falls will land spread evenly around the whole plot by building a house you are collecting all the rain and condensing it into a couple of down pipes so it comes out in a concentrated area, this is the problem that needs addressing. 100 litres of water falling over an area of 400 square m is not a problem, but send that 100 litres down a pipe over a 4 hour period is when you get dramas.

We have some major issues with rainwater collection and it's cost a small fortune to sort out something so obvious. Our place is probably the polar opposite to yours, no clay but gravel so the percolation test is perfect tip a bucket of water on the floor and it disappears in seconds. The problem is the water table is only750 mm below the surface. So we cannot have a soakaway the solution is to have a soakaway with out a top/ lid on it. What is this? It's a pond, the down pipes will discharge to the wildlife pond and slowly filter into the surrounding ground. I think you will will be looking at a soakaway with a larger area so it can hold the volume until it can migrate into the surrounding ground no matter how long this takes.

How did you get pp without stating where the rainwater from your roof was going to go. Is it not a condition in you pp what did they say you had to do. What did you say you would do.

How is having a rainwater tank solving the problem of where your roofwater goes? Do you have to provide a solution for bc we have had had to do a full flood risk and rain water analysis, and they wouldn't except a rainwater tank as any form of mitigating measure. The reason being what happens if your tanks are full and it rains? It goes straight out of the overflow and into your drain field. So why not just put it in there in the first place. Unless you really want to flush your toilets with it it seamed like a crock to me when we did our assessment.

Love the house. What is it with bloody tradesmen. Why are those windows not fully masked up. I wouldnot consider working near them without full masking or an indemnity from any damage caused. Sorry rant over.