Russell griffiths

Probably an obvious comment, but remember it wil need to be safety glass if within 800 mm of the floor.

Thinking out side the box,like I do instead of using one of the in roof kits to fit your panels in, how about having a full GRP tray under the panels our roof build up will end up with a full osb sheet under our roof covering, so I was thinking about having a complete fibreglass tray resin bonded onto the osb with any brackets bonded in an upstand all the way around covered with a flashing to match the metal roof covering any thoughts.

Tbh I think the starrett cutter would be stronger with two blades mounted inside.

Looking at mine , I think Stanley blades are not needed it doesn’t cut and give off an apple peel type sliver it sort of scrapes it off i think a piece of stainless 2-3 mm thick sticking through the side so the pipe is a tight fit against the cutter i think Stanley blades will be to brittle

Thanks for that @A_L the problem I have is I find that tata steel BBA diagram rather poor why would you have an air gap on top of your insulation this I believe lessons the effectiveness of the insulation dramatically as wind washing over the insulation decreases its effectiveness. I like the idea of an air gap why are the also calling it a warm roof without having insulation over the joists, are they calling that foam pad insulation?

The finished roof is metal roof sheets, exact type not finalised yet, we are also undecided on if to have a ventilation gap under the sheets or not. Seems a debateable subject depending on if you feel it is a full warm roof or not.

To be honest I think you could probably make one in a couple of hours. I was a bit underwhelmed with the design but it works very well.

Thanks @PeterW more info, vcl on inside of inner insulation, taped to inner ICF wall. ceiling vaulted and completely flat so easy to wrap, 90mm service void on underside of ceiling. Ceiling timber clad. if I thought it was going to be a pain to install the vcl over the inner insulation I could put up a layer of 9mm osb and install vcl flat on that.

£24 e bay.

Morning all. Looking for opinions on a roof, ceiling build up i need to install some form of insulation to cover my roof joists to stop any cold bridge so there are two options really, on top or inside. option 1. Soft batt type insulation between the joists( depth to be confirmed) with a semi ridgid ROCKWOOL type board over the top laid at right angles to the joist with a counter batten on top of that. Option 2. soft batt type insulation between the joists (depth to be confirmed) with a ridgid insulation board on the underside of the joists at ceiling level, i would prefer option 2 as I am concerned about raising the roof line, whereas I have masses of headroom underneath does one offer any benifits fits over the other? Or is it a case of if the same insulation was used in both options the combined thickness would be the same wherever you put it. Cheers russ.

I believe they make a 160 version

Morning I’ve been using this tool to put the taper back on the ends of any cut drainage pipe, works a treat. Little bit costly but has been used in anger all week and paid for itself already.

No more complicated than this. My cutter has the hose attachment at the side, but I inadvertently turned the pressure up to high one day and blew a hole in the pipe. Waiting for a new one to turn up. v

The way I view it is if you do a narrow trench and put one on top of the other, what if you need to work on the lower one i would do a wider trench with separation between them.

OMG I must have a really nasty streak in me i was really hoping you where going to say it fell off the string. Sorry??

This also happens with fibre glass swimming pools, never empty one completely.

What about the drainage.

Having talked through your plot with you, and a couple of issues you have. Is there a possibility of running any of your services through their land.

I have exactly the same dilemma although you digger is bigger than mine. The answer is to dig down 300/400 mm beside the hole to create a hole for the digger to sit in nice level base track the digger into the lower shelf sit there to complete the lowest dig. I have seen the level piling matt you made, I don’t know why your worried ??? crack on son. PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS OF ENTERING A HOLE WITH OUT ADEQUATELY SUPPORTING THE SIDES.

Yep already suggested that one. It is standard practice in Australia build a big garage, fit a shower and toilet, fit some temporary partition walls live in garage finish house garage ends up as nice man cave with toilet.

For anybody living in or contemplating have a look on a you tube channel called. Pure living for life. Ignore his house building as it’s shocking, but have a look at where they are living they have added a timber porch to their van, in this porch is a wood burner, it’s a place to keep all the wellies, work clothes,dog and charge tool batteries, washing machine. It has transformed a tiny mobile home into a liveable functional space. We have done exactly the same with our current house, added a 3mx3m boot room it houses everything I mentioned above and actually makes the house practical, why do people dry washing in the front room, build cost for us was about £1000 including the wood burner and flue.

As Peter said and as I said previously get a pallet put it on the floor put block on top cut through block if you put your foot on it your a fool asking for trouble. you should not be making any dust it’s very bad for you. I hope you have the correct PPE eye protection, ear defenders. Common sense number 3 is normally lacking in the vast majority of people I meet. Pic to folow.

I would think in total we have probably cut around 80 blocks to fill in my floor. I couldn’t begin to think of doing this without a petrol disc cutter and a diamond disc if you get it all down, you can hire one and do all the cuts at once i have my own so just cut as needed

Getting back to crushing up a house I have recently just done a few rough sums for this and my conclusion was it wasn’t worth the effort my situation. If you look at my blog you will see I had an unexpected amount of concrete on site I didn’t know I had. So eight truck loads to remove from site. @ £140 per load cash. After all all this was gone I needed to make a Matt for the piling rig and also fill in under my floor 7 loads of crushed concrete bought in @ £140 plus vat per load, hire of skid mount crusher for 1 day £1200 plus vat plus fuel plus excavator to load crusher. Total about a couple of grand. Unless you have a lot to crush I would bite the bullet and get the big lumps removed and track all the bricks into the ground to make a nice hard standing to work on and park. In the end I paid to remove two loads from site of the biggest nastiest lumps, the rest has been buried in areas I know are going to end up as parking.

Block n beam layout. You can see the cuts if you enlarge it a bit. I would recommend this company if they have a depot near you. Seemed efficient, I changed things 3 times and it didn’t seem a problem awkward site for an artic,driver very good put them all exactly where I wanted them. And £ 800 cheaper than the next quote.