Russell griffiths

If a roll of dpc costs a fiver then why not chuck it in.

In my opinion it would depend on your outer finish, your ground level and a couple of other things if you have a dc on the ground and water can bounce on the floor and jump up above your floor dc then that is what you need to stop if ground level is below slab level so any bounce will not breech the dc then no you need to look at your construction method and make a decision based on that.

Here’s mine

What’s up chap ? looks good making good progress.

G,day looking for a damp proof membrane in liquid form to be either brush applied or spray for the junction of my icf blocks and my footing the icf company recomend a peel and stick membrane but I think a liquid will get in the nooks and crannies better. Needs to be compatible with icf blocks so not solvent based. Thanks russ.

What has its name got to do with anything what I was getting at is this is the AAV restricting air admittance, does it need to be there at all does the system work better with no valve in place ? If it does then how about controlling smells coming up instead of preventing smells entering the area the AAV is situated.

Ok thinking outside the box as usual if you went with @jack idea and had another trap in the vertical pipe then........... why do you need a durgo, what you need is air admittance not smell restricting you could have an open vent as the trap below is stopping smells coming back up. Have you tried this with the durgo removed. Helmet on waiting to recieve incoming flack.

I had 3 quotes for the insulation for a raft and isoquick where the dearest. Lots of others out there.

I would love to use box profile, however at the moment I don’t think it would look right the house (hopefully) will be very angular and sharp and I think the box profile just won’t look right. I will I’ll however buy a couple of sheets when we get to that stage and chuck them up and have a look. Price wise I hope I can use box profile.

There are a lot of other things you need to consider Damp, you will need to protect the upper floor from anything rising up. Cold. The timber floor offers a modicum of cold protection from the concrete below, if you chuck another slab on top you will transfer everything from the lower slab to the upper. It would be just a token gesture but you could put 25mm of insulation on top of a damp proof membrane and then a thinner screed with a light weight mesh to give it a bit of strength.

I had thought of this, has anybody done any cost comparison compared with a roll type insulation.

You need to just start networking my story this month. Had a chat with a lad doing some gardening next door to me as my garden is suffering since I started our build he said he does a bit of fencing and landscaping so I had him for a day to sit on the dumper 3 weeks later he has agreed to work with me for 3 days a week for the next year has stayed at our place and looked after the dog when we went away ex army, tidy as can be, willing to do anything, never needs telling just gets on with it. If I hadn’t had a chat with the lad doing the gardening I wouldn’t have never found him put yourself about a bit, get to know the local odd job guy.

Yes 99% of the house will be done by me. @Alexphd1 when you say double sarked you mean Scottish terms so sarked as in solid boarding if we need a solid board under the sheets for rigidity and fixing, could the lower board be replaced with just a membrane. Double 18 mm osb is a lot of weight and money. Your joist depth is not that high, what form of insulation did you use.

@Russdl have a look at stratco highland tray. Australian company, we had all our roofing off them for a house we built in oz. lots of American companies doing standing seam no links at the mo just having a search around.

Sketch please we have looked at the tata(catnic) steel standing seam but are also looking at importing a product from either the states or Australia.

I have seen this type of membrane, did you like it ? did it seem to do what it said it would. @Mr Punter

The specifications for the sheet roofing is that it must be fitted to a flat solid surface, minimum 18mm thick for fixing purchases, no battens as you would distort the sheets being completly flat with just the standing seam used as a joint, without a full flat fixing surface I think you would notice every ripple and wobble as it dipped and humped over the battens.

evening. The other day I posted this up and had some good responses, ( thank you everyone) however most of the answers where regarding the actual fitment of the metal roofing and whether I should fit a counter batten and air gap or not. What i would be interested in is people’s opinions on the insulation side of things, is it enough? would you go for method A B C. a couple of things please don’t suggest cutting lots of kingspan to fit snugly between those I joists as I may climb through the computer screen and strangle you. any thoughts mr @JSHarris Apart from that I am open to any suggestions. Cheers russ.

Do you know you have bats? is it just an assumption because you have an old building we had an old timber building, and before our ecology numpty turned up all signs of the little black things had been tidied up.

Whoever it is make sure you don’t fit it like that picture

This could well be the case but Why would you take the chance

if doing any grinding near that door YOU MUST fully mask the glass and frame any sparks can etch into the face of the glass you can buy 8x4 sheets of very thin floor protection plastic

The problem is we have no concept in this country on how to conserve water go and live in Australia for a year and you will look at things a bit differently HOSE PIPE BAN. you shouldn’t be using it to water your bloody garden in the first place put every house on a meter and I bet people change.

Bugger me I’ve never seen one of them. ??

So as the title says i have seen a product on you tube for fixing fence posts, that is an expanded foam type stuff that got poured around a post anybody seen it or know where to get it. I have a couple of loose gate gate posts that are moving due to the clay cracking around them and a series of 75mm wide cracks around them that would be perfect if I could pour something down them.