Russell griffiths

You need 600mm in the ground. Get the trellis made on site, from longer timber so it spans across the top of the posts to make a complete run, not 6 foot sections, that way you can lift it higher than the post tops, keeping the bottom in the post and sailing through with the top two rows of slats. just a thought.

Sounds a hideous idea, you can get reasonable paving for £25 a metre, or if budget is tight prepare the area with type 1 and cover in a gravel of your choice for a year or two until you can afford the paving. or my neighbour has used 200mm wide oak boards 25mm thick for a very rustic deck.

Duster house sell sheds, it’s not what you want. Avoid.

No it’s not right, it’s a quick fix to an awkward situation. if they are a professional company who charged you the correct money to fit this, then they should have employed a roofing company to do it correctly.

@bisquits to get your terminology right, you are looking to screw into RAFTERS these are the timbers that run from the gutter area, to the ridge area, PURLINS are the huge beams that run left to right under the rafters to add additional support to the rafters.

You need a cross section drawing showing what you have and the problems you think it’s going to cause. it’s to hard to try and figure out what’s going on in the pictures.

Only for watering the garden though, not connected back into the house.

What about that pipe work, is it temporary.

I’m more concerned with that pier supporting the steel sitting on top of that tiny lintel. Is that drain pipe permanent or just temporary.

Move the door over, anything else is just a bodge, you need to allow for architrave as well, don’t be one of these people with architrave only on one side and the top.

u15-3 2500 hours the only thing I haven’t done with it is the bulk digging of the house footprint, as I had to go down 750mm over 260square metres. and installing our new treatment plant as that was over 2.4 below ground level. I might have been lucky but it’s the best thing I’ve bought in a long time., had it 6-7 years now.

My 1.5 tonne all singing all dancing kubota was £7000 plus vat.

this is their poplar on my ceiling, substantial saving over cedar. @Benpointer

Another job for that digger you need to buy, I had mine emptied then dug around the top down about a metre, then rip the fibreglass top off, smash the digger into the central bit and a big plastic ball will come out, dig down inside the tank as far as you can reach and use the teeth of the bucket to punch holes in the sides and bottom, you might not be able to reach the bottom, fill with type one, big rubble will leave voids.

Are you planning on letting it go grey, if you want to keep it a nice orange colour, if you want to keep it a nice orangey colour I think you might be better off with an artificial type cladding, something like TRESPA.

Oh ok, no sharp type one in contact with the pipe, build up in layers, bring the type one close to the pipe and fill around the pipe with pea gravel, another layer of type one and fill the gap with gravel again. be careful if you are using a whacker near the pipe. foam wrap around the vertical bit for the section that is in the concrete floor for wiggle room and fine location later.

We have cedar cladding, and aluminium gutters, that’s why I mentioned it all came from a company called guttercrest, I find the Linda’s stuff a bit agricultural looking.

Can you change to aluminium gutter, is that any different.

The rest bend MUST be bedded in concrete and have a concrete support and surround, it doesn’t need to come up high but MUST support the bend completely, pea gravel will not do this. if this pipe rises vertically the weight from the vertical pipe and the whoooosh of a big poo and the water falling over a couple of metres will smash into the bottom of that bend and can dislodge them or even completely blow them off the bottom of the soil stack. a very good job is needed here, if the rest of the pipe sits on the ground rather than in a trench then that need hunching up in a weak mix of concrete also, pea gravel is only for burying a pipe in a trench.

All your 110 pipe will go in before you fit the block n beam, all bedded in a continuous bed of weak concrete mix, rest bends at the rends of the pipes bedded securely in concrete, these go up wards and pick up your smaller pipes. look at the regs for maximum distance a 40-50mm pipe can travel, upsize to 50mm if you can it flows so much better. the 110 will live under the floor very happily for the rest of your life.

Load of rubbish, the plastic ones are crap. pick something that does the job, not because the colour matches your fence, or it’s a better length.

Sharp sand, silver sand. Take your pick, you don’t buy a tub of glitter and give it to the brickies to put in the mixer. it’s all in your sand choice and pointing method, to hard a pointing method will push the shiny stones under the surface, you need it lightly brushed so the stones stand out. trial and error im afraid. looks like you will need to gaf.

Deposit needed I think.

Talk to your council, some will let you do demolition and that’s classed as a start, some you can put some drains in, some will want full foundations. ask them.

The pipes exiting my house are as shallow as I could get them, literally 100mm below ground, concrete cover over them and then a concrete path over the top, pedestrian traffic only. it’s the only way to get the fall, my first toilet is 25m from the plant, if you stuck to the regs the time I got to the plant it would be a metre lower than it is.