Russell griffiths

I would not do this job until the house is built, al, you will do is end up with a swampy mess after everyone has driven over it and put scaffolding on it. keep it 4-5m back from the house site.

I wouldn’t think your location would have much bearing on cost, the windows don’t come from down south unless your thinking of Dover, as most of them come in from Lithuania. the fitters just travel around the country so that shouldn’t have much bearing either. if you can accept the windows directly you will save a big chunk, you will need a forklift to offload though.

How come nobody is checking you have the dispensation paperwork to allow its use. is it another government idea that nobody is policing. im still buying it, but I know I shouldn’t be using it, according to the new regs.

Do all your neighbours hate you ?.🤣🤣 could you park it around the back of one of their places in exchange for some beer tokens.

Hire a machine for a couple of weekends get your pad down for the static caravan, get some services run to it, hire a septic tank that sits under a porta cabin. move into static buy own digger put in sewage treatment plant off hire septic tank. or buy a trailer and take your digger home with you.

With your wall that has 5-6 boards on it, I’m afraid you need to get faster and level up all the boards at once. so a two bag mix in a big tub, get all your dabs on fast, then slap the bards up and use a 3m straight edge to level all boards into each other at the same time, also plumbing them as well. you won’t need to go to the gym that night.

Do not put a small excavator on site until you live there. especially as your neighbours don’t exactly like you. 😂😂 mine is insured on my self build policy, but I’m not sure about an empty site, I wouldn’t.

You will struggle to buy red now, unless you have a friendly farmer near by.

Depends what it is, plastic, wood, or aluminium do they do facia, a lot do it badly, I would get a facia company for upvc and a carpenter for wood and a metal roofer for anything, er metal.

Who is paying for a broken window. I would not consider a digger anything like gentle enough. Use the digger for what it’s for, dig out that soft ground and replace with type 1. a few grands worth of glass is not something to mess with. what do they weigh out of interest. my 4.8m sliders we lifted in with 5 blokes and suction cups. having now done some sums your 2.6 x3m is 7.8m of glass. my 4.8 x2.1 is 10.08 of glass so they could well be liftable by hand. depends how high they need to go, we had to lift from a pallet crate up 300mm onto the door step, i would not have wanted to lift them 750mm high or more, I think if I did I would have used the telehandler and suction cup frame that you can hire. our window company quoted to use a glazing robot, I declined and said I would lift them myself, when the fitters turned up I asked them about the robot and they said they prefer to pick them up by hand.

Cost me £600 this year when the imobilizer packed up. apart from oil changes it’s the first time I’ve spent a penny on it.

You need to do the bottom, especially if you have ufh as this will be the warmest area the frame is internally and the coldest externally, so a great area for condensation on the frame.

Your over analysing this. I’ve got a 1-5tonne kubota, there’s only two jobs I haven’t been able to do with it in 6 years of being here. bulk excavation of house plot as it was just too much volume 300m + I could have done it but it was taking too long, 8 tonne machine for 3-4 days sorted that. then installing the septic, I could definitely have done it with my machine no question, but I had to hire in a box shoring system to hold the sides up, the 8 tonne machine struggled with this as well. so two weeks hire of a bigger machine in 6 years of owning our place. there’s not a single week I haven’t used the digger.

Ha ha, your stil thinking about it 😂

You won’t need to hit them much, soon as you nail the first rafter on they will come loose from the mortar.

Don’t fix your plates down, leave them floating, as you cut your odd length rafters you can wiggle the plate in and out until acceptable, then after three or four rafters you will get a feel for the best location for the plate, fix it down and strap it then.

Go bigger every time don’t consider anything under 50mm, and 50mm only for a single SWA of say 4-6mm anything bigger will be stiff and awkward to pull through, 50mm rigid for BT or fibre. anything bigger stick to 75-90- 100mm ducts.

Far better to do two layers and stagger the joints. 150mm is a pain to cut. if it comes bent it’s hard to straighten, two layers would be my choice every time.

Remember a 300mm chamber can only be 600 deep. @flanagaj

@Nickfromwales is a bit of a bender 🤣

A sewage treatment plant takes it all, toilet, shower wash basin washing machine dishwasher just nothing that you haven’t eaten except good quality toilet paper, no wipes no sanitary products no nappies, just poo.

If you can go 8mm i would bend them on site, simple jig and a hand bender.

Total construction supplies in the west mids did mine, they didn’t like it as it was small and hard to bend, but did them as I had had £5000 worth of steel for my foundations, and they featured my foundations on their website. give them a call. could you drop to 8mm links, check with structural engineer, easier to bend to get the tight radius.

As above, run at a little bit steeper fall, then slope down to meet the manhole invert for the last 4-5m. you can run plastic steep, it won’t leave your no 2’s stranded.

Very time consuming to cut and fit expensive even if fitted well it shrinks over time leading to a poor fit. if your doing something from scratch you should be able to design it out and save some coin.