Russell griffiths

I used a product called knauf omni fit. far nicer to handle than rockwool if installed from underneath.

Is this an extension or a new house. if it’s a new house then stop work now and get this stuff sorted out.

If it’s a large build then definitely look at those vids on YouTube, he’s doing an excellent job on a massive farm barn.

Look up the restoration couple on you tube, your project sounds like theirs, just probably smaller. is this a class Q conversion or something similar.

In your pictures the brickwork is higher than the blocks, they should build the blockwork up, installing ties as they go, the insulation goes onto the blocks with good detail, joints tight and even taped, then the brickwork goes up. poor detail now will lead to poor performance later.

If you are on a journey to become a developer, you would be better off buying quality plots with planning and go from there. buying poor plots with problems is a sure fire way to loads of grief and small profits. look at a plot for two houses as a starter, if you are short on funds then get some financing, don’t buy rubbish because that’s all you can afford.

@G and J if you have bracing walls then I would presume the TF company would install them as part of the structural package, they are not going to risk the integrity of their frame by letting you put them in afterwards. they need to be in before any roof loading and frame sign off and hand over. non structural walls are a different matter.

Sort your insulation and airtightness first, don’t just fit a bigger heat source, or you will be one of the thousands that say they didn’t realise heat pumps cost so much to run.

I would worry that if that’s the quality of the brickwork, then what’s the quality of the insulation fitting and other details. show us the pointed side.

Why didn’t the original developer not put another house on it.

Washing machine hose, fitted to the fitting on the trap under the sink to stop smells coming up.

I always ask myself, why has nobody built on it previously.

If you bought this duct from toolstation then it is completely the wrong thing for using underground, this stuff is what you use for inside the house for protecting cables from chafing. do yourself a favour and stop pursuing the idea of pulling a fibre cable through it. replace it and ask for advice on here in future, DO NOT rely on trades on site giving you the correct advice, you will be amazed at the poor knowledge of a lot of them you will come across.

Do yourself a favour and forget this duct, it’s now useless, get some rigid grey bt duct and use this, it will future proof you for any new installation of fibre, extra bt cables or whatever.

Where have you got any joins that could leak underground, you shouldn’t have any joins untill you hit the first fitting on your vertical timber holding all the gubbins and the tap. out of all the joints I can think you would have on that vertical timber the only one that would have ptfe on would be the tap into the backing plate.

Try linseed oil on the pine, the more coats the darker it should go. im afraid it’s a case of buying 10 different things and trying them until you get a good match. I think on my last count I have over 30 paint test pots at home because the wife thought they were not quite right !!

Pull the conduit forward, splash a load of water and pva mix into the chase to wash out the dust and prime up the dry blocks. get 4-5 large head clout nail, push the conduit back in and use the nails at the side of the conduit to trap it in place, you should be able to nail into the block or joints. slap some bonding into the chase, finishing it 5mm low of the surface, plaster over the bonding.

Where is the trap situated to stop the smells coming up that pipe. if you are thinking of fitting a waterless trap behind that appliance then you need that to look at the diameter of it. I can see a way out of your problem, but I do agree with everyone, it’s a bit farmed up and the pipe should come up in the cupboard next to the appliance. will the back panel on this island be removable. I think you need to answer the bit about the trap first and the possibility of moving the appliance first before we start looking for a method of hacking that pipe into a better position.

Floors are installed by the carpenters that fitted the floor joists, plasterboard is put up by a boarder, or tacker normally priced by the meter, they will fly in and want to smash it out quickly, or ask your plasterers to quote for it, you will probably get a better job as they know they have to plaster it afterwards. the jobs you will struggle with are the details, fitting vapour control layers, sealing and taping windows.

Loads about, solid plastic like the one above or they do a flexible rubber version.

You can buy some expensive shuttering to form the sides of the foundation buy the time you have bought it and payed to fit it you might as well just rip a big wide trench in and fill it with concrete. it’s either 2 grand in shuttering or 2 grand in more concrete. Or stop work and re design everything.

Don’t buy 6m lengths of pipe, they always have a significant bend in them, ok if going in a trench you can pack them straight, but trying to hold them in place in your situation would be a pain.

You should drop your worktop height down 75mm to make it easier to work on. I’ve just dropped ours to approximately 850 for my shorty wife.

The third block you listed is half the size of the others, so you need to buy twice as many, and lay twice as many.

The problem with icf over her is a lot of stuff is cut and pasted from American or Canadian regs. they have earth quakes and other severe weather, we get very few major weather incidents. my structural engineer said to me that you wouldn’t put re bar in a block built wall, so why is it needed in a concrete one with less joins. the only reason I see the need for reinforcement of a basic straight short wall would be if it was holding back a load, like a semi basement, or any roof load pushing outwards onto it.