Russell griffiths

Some makes do have extensions however I don’t think they are available for that valve you have, do some searching. I think you will end up tearing that wall apart. having two different teams fit first and second fix can be a recipe for disaster I’m afraid.

I need to update a boundary, I’ve been told it can take up to a year 😂🤦🏻‍♂️

Flexible tile adhesive the single part bagged stuff, not the ready-mixed stuff out of a tub.

Do you need a 10 year warranty for a conversion?? @scottishjohn sounds like your build.

If your planning on putting it underground eventually, then why can you not put it underground now, just have the mdpe running above ground until you build the extension. what am I missing.

You actually want a tank full of poo sitting on top of your garden. what are you going to do with the outlet pipe, just clip it to the fence and grow some ivy up it. Nope, put the proper underground one in and you will be left with a neat inspection chamber lid, nothing else to see.

Mines not timberframe, no membrane on the walls.

You need to determine if it’s rain or condensation go in the loft when it’s raining with a torch and sit there for half an hour and play detective. take some pics. water should not be getting under the tiles and onto the membrane in the first place. the tiles are your number 1 rain defence, the membrane is a secondary line of defence. I would do a bit of research first.

A little tip is to liberally apply wd40 over everything cills frames etc when finished a bucket of soapy hot water brings them back up. all the mortar and splashes will not stick to the wd40 covered frames.

I would buy some second hand bandstands and new scaffolding boards, 3m isn’t very high so with you stood on top it only needs to be 1m high, cover the entire room so you have a full walkable surface without getting down. this will be far nicer than spending all day up n down, up n down. you will sell the bandstands for exactly what you paid for them, and probably loose 20% on the boards.

His drawings lack details that I’ve seen shown from others. also I’ve never seen type 1 stone used. im only going by what I’ve seen mentioned on here, and it’s normally a different stone makeup. that could be because of your ground conditions. needs some input from people on here who have done this previously.

I have 3 sewage systems I have to look after, two are old septic tanks, the third is the new treatment plant I installed. they are like chalk n cheese, the treatment plant just sits there bubbling away, I can’t see it needing emptying in the next few years, there is zero sludge in it, it is not in heavy use at the moment as I’m the only one here at the moment. But as long as it has a power supply there very little to go wrong with it, I’ve had numerous problems with other things on site, but not that.

Have you thought of using an engineer who specifically works with jackodor or kore, the first two names I can remember who do insulated slabs.

No photos. you need to stop water getting behind or under the roof flashing, the membrane is only there as a second defence. whatever flashing you are using needs to go really high and lap into the window area.

Why is it sitting at ground level and not raised min 150mm up.

I believe there was some discussion about the bio rock clogging up with gunk, those bags needed changing far more frequently than listed. what service are you talking about, that’s just a big con, it’s a plastic tank with an air blower in it, lift lid is it bubbling, ok £200 please, just not needed.

Your step father should have a grasp of this, he probably needs to talk to an up to date architectural technician who regularly does building regs submitions. you need to know what u value you need to achieve to pass building regs. there is a u value for walls, roofs and floors. these u values can be achieved by building in different ways, cavity walls, timber walls and on and on. you need someone technical to point you in the right direction, then you need to research every different build type, until you find what fits your project. you don’t need to know the details of what shower you will have, but you should know that you are either going to use gas, or oil or electricity. I think I would stop work until you are up to speed with things incase you end up having to re do any work you have started. what sort of stage are you at.

I would think you will need to plasterboard behind the oak frame, not wet plaster. there is a lovely oak frame cafe near me that has plastered walls behind the oak posts, the areas the plasterer couldn’t get his trowel into look rough as a badger’s backside, the gap was not big enough for him. I would slide a full board behind each post and then leave 40mm min so he can get his skim coat behind the post. you will need to wrap the posts up as plaster in the oak grain is a pig to get out. im thinking oak trusses sitting on top of the icf walls, with false oak posts would be far simpler.

Don’t worry about racing to get it in the dry. 100% it will get wet, and 100% it will change colour because of this. you will need to clean the oak with oxalic acid when it’s all done to bring back the natural colour.

Sap is straight forward find a sap assessor, tell him your project type, conversion. send him your plans, he will tell you the u values you will need to meet to pass for each part of the building, floor, walls, roof. you then need to design each bit accordingly to meet that u value, there are a few things you can do to up your score in certain areas. as in some renewable energy sources will score better than others.

Afaik you need to submit your sap to get building regs sign off ask whoever is doing your regs and inspections

You will need a really robust design for waterproofing the window cill. any water getting around the cill will be further back into the building than the flashing from the roof, so any water can easily get behind the waterproof method for the roof. I have 5 windows all above a roof like this and it took some serious out the box thinking to get a good detail i ended up using a single part roof liquid membrane to waterproof the window cill area. or you need to take your lead flashing up high and dress it into the window area, with all corners welded, not just folded.

We have a Graf tank, it has a computer thingy in a shed that runs the compressor. it is set to run the pump for 6minutes it then turns off for 4 minutes( these times could be reversed im going senile ) the idea is that it blows enough to agitate the poo, then when it is off it’s not long enough for it to settle over the diffuse holes before it fires back up again. if you are worried about lack of input into the system I believe there is a thing that sits in the tank and it will deliver a measured dose of good bacteria stuff if you are away for any length of time.

Have you used it. It’s basically osb with a very shiny coating, give it a coat of passive purple if you really want to, but as far as I’m aware it’s just a non permeable board. Its not like the intelligent membranes that let some stuff through and not others. as long as we’re talking about the shiny green stuff.

Price it up, then look at making your own with a couple of good coats of paint onto standard osb.